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Old 09-13-2016, 02:54 PM
  #271  
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Originally Posted by username1
Ahh I see

Completely new to 4wd sct. What's a recommended setup?


He currently runs a blitz 2wd SCT with a HW ESC and Schuur speed 17.5t
Hit up Jake at OCRC, and he'll get you setup.
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:48 PM
  #272  
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Originally Posted by Deton8er
Thanks Frank, you are right, using my phone. I'll have to download that app.
I got the rear ended torn down, my arms are binding bad, loosened everything and still binding. How did you guys go about reaming them?
I use a 3.5mm hand reamer
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hudy-su...d107632/p32195
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:10 PM
  #273  
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...
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:00 PM
  #274  
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I wonder if the 3.0 braces and battery mounts are required when putting a 3.0 chassis on a 2.0? I wouldn't think so?
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:02 PM
  #275  
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Has anyone had a loose wheel hex issue yet? Mine slide right off the pin
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:25 PM
  #276  
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Any race updates? I finished my truck at the track. The first time I ran the truck was in the first qualifier.
I ended up qualifying 5th in the B main. Finished 2nd in the B and advanced to the A main. Where I finished 5th.
All with the kit set up🤗
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:25 PM
  #277  
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Originally Posted by Crashracing99
Has anyone had a loose wheel hex issue yet? Mine slide right off the pin
and I thought I was a noob🙄🙄
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:28 PM
  #278  
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Get clamping hexes.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:28 PM
  #279  
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Originally Posted by Mikey72057
Hi I really like this part on the 3.0 TLR231053 does anybody know if it will fit the 2.0

Like Casper said. It fits one hole in 2.0 chassis already. You would need to drill the second screw for the brace to work correctly and be strong.

Originally Posted by Tommygun1
I wonder if the 3.0 braces and battery mounts are required when putting a 3.0 chassis on a 2.0? I wouldn't think so?
The 3.0 chassis braces help locate the battery. You will need the chassis, braces, lipo foam and battery holder to get this 3.0 upgrade done easy.

You can get most of the benefits of the 3.0 by updating to the -3 chassis offered for the 2.0. Use TLR331015 -3mm Chassis. Bolts on and all 2.0 stuff fits. Rear center driveshaft might be too long. Just change the rear drive cup on the center diff to a drive cup that fits the diff out drives. That's the safe bet if your not ready for the new 3.0 truck for whatever reason.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:19 PM
  #280  
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Ah, now I see the issue would be 3.0 chassis is wider, therefore the mudguard won't hold the outside of the battery like on the 2.0. I have different battery holders that should work though.
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:50 PM
  #281  
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That is right. The 3.0 uses the chassis stiffeners to hold the inside of lipo and the chassis lipo stops hold the outside.
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:22 AM
  #282  
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i just started building mine last night. have not read any anything about
the diff screws that hold the diff's together, the 2.0 one's would strip
just by looking at them. these 3.0 diff screws seem to be stronger.
hahaha I even rounded off a brand new hex driver and screw head was fine!
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Old 09-14-2016, 01:58 PM
  #283  
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+1
Many of the updated parts have not been talked about. They are running changes and I truly appreciate these details being addressed.
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Old 09-14-2016, 02:15 PM
  #284  
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Will there be a Tuning Guide? Like the 2.0 and 22SCT has.
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Old 09-14-2016, 03:08 PM
  #285  
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All the 2.0 info would apply to the 3.0. Only adjustment really added to the 3.0 is the motor angle. There is the updated caster blocks and all of that but the rest of the 2.0 information still all applies to the 3.0
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