653LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
09-01-2016 | 01:23 PM
#2942
Can someone WIKI that thread? I would, but I can't seem to locate it.
EDIT - Nevermind, I didn't realize it was a post within this thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/14637375-post1257.html
EDIT - Nevermind, I didn't realize it was a post within this thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/14637375-post1257.html
09-01-2016 | 02:18 PM
#2943
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 371
From: Framingham, MA
I'm going to preface this by saying... I'm coming out of a nearly 20yr racing retirement. I need a hobby to break up the grind. Last time I raced... it was anoOriginal World's car. I've picked up and built a few AE kits to build (enjoy that as much as racing) for fun and played a little, but no racing.
Now I've picked up a B6 and B6D. It's great to see the tech advances with Wifi radios, brushless esc/motors and LiPos. By far the most confusing to me is the LiPo technology.
Question time... AE's site says "7.4V LiPo or 6.6V LiFe battery (saddle pack, shorty pack, or square pack)". Looking around the web, the manual, etc I've only seen shorty packs used. How would you mount a square or saddle pack? What would really be best form factor for some stock buggy racing? Recommendations on LiPo specs?
Now I've picked up a B6 and B6D. It's great to see the tech advances with Wifi radios, brushless esc/motors and LiPos. By far the most confusing to me is the LiPo technology.
Question time... AE's site says "7.4V LiPo or 6.6V LiFe battery (saddle pack, shorty pack, or square pack)". Looking around the web, the manual, etc I've only seen shorty packs used. How would you mount a square or saddle pack? What would really be best form factor for some stock buggy racing? Recommendations on LiPo specs?
If you're racing at RC Madness he has New Wave, Max Amps , CRC and others at the track. If you race in Fitchburg, he has a few brands there as well like the Team Scream stuff.
You also should get a charger that does at least 10A. 20A is even better if your budgets gets you there, but 10A is fine for club racing.
09-01-2016 | 03:43 PM
#2944
09-01-2016 | 05:15 PM
#2946
09-02-2016 | 12:24 AM
#2947
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 24
Got my car built, all electronics in. B6D with laydown, neutral setup from manual. Ride height is higher than 23mm though. I let out the shock collars in the back and front, that lowered it some, but still at 27mm in the back and about 25-26 in the front. What should I do to get it lower?
09-02-2016 | 12:54 AM
#2948
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 2,037
From: Valley Cottage NY
Got my car built, all electronics in. B6D with laydown, neutral setup from manual. Ride height is higher than 23mm though. I let out the shock collars in the back and front, that lowered it some, but still at 27mm in the back and about 25-26 in the front. What should I do to get it lower?
09-02-2016 | 01:47 AM
#2949
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,033
Got my car built, all electronics in. B6D with laydown, neutral setup from manual. Ride height is higher than 23mm though. I let out the shock collars in the back and front, that lowered it some, but still at 27mm in the back and about 25-26 in the front. What should I do to get it lower?
09-02-2016 | 06:08 AM
#2950
Lol yes. Also, we will offer (like the towers pictured on my car) option towers that eliminate the outer hole on the tower that never gets used. By doing this, You now have the far outside hole which is the normal middle hole on the stock tower, your normal inside hole, then a new middle hole between the two. 
09-02-2016 | 06:11 AM
#2953
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,944
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Okay yesterday night at practice and playing around with a friend... I broke my rear shock tower... And yes it broke right on that inner hole.... Bought another stock one.... What a drag.
09-02-2016 | 06:16 AM
#2954
