Poke = street cred steez 😎

I ran my car at 25 degree boost, and 1 degree of motor timing. The car flies. Way too much top end for these narrow car parked, low grip streets. When the boost kicks in, you can see and hear the car buck a little because the tires are expanding. I haven't been able to run this thing wide open to get to top speed, it's still accelerating before I have to slow down. The motor gets pretty hot too. How to keep cool? What heatsink/fan would fit?

For sane driving, I dialed it back to 8 degrees. And increased my punch to 20/30 and 30/30.

Fyrstormer, what tires and rims do you have on your xv-01 minivan?

I have two sets of tires for the minivan right now; HPI Super Radials on HPI Split Six wheels for dry weather, and Team Schumacher Shimizu rain tire premounts for wet weather. The Shimizu tires are impressively sticky; they grip wet pavement about as well as the Super Radials grip dry pavement. I suspect they might do well in the winter too, when it's freezing-cold and the super-soft rubber firms up a bit.

At the speeds you're going, I'd recommend the V-Groove tires or the RiDE USGT tires. They have better grip. I have the V-Grooves on all of my 40mph+ cars, except for my RS4 M3 rally car which uses Pirelli Rally tires (and rarely hits 40mph, and has a gyro to help it at high speed), and my RS4 Viper which uses vintage X-Pattern belted tires.

I've always wondered if the f1 wheels and tires would fit on this car, they always look really cool, with the mega high sidewall and all. I'll keep my USGT tires for now.

How about some motor cooling? Does the ff03 fan work on this car without modification? Do you have any recommendations?

My front-motor XV-01s are all brushed, and they all have endbell cooling fans attached.

Looking at my FF-03 shelf-queen, the design of the front bumper brace is different, so the FF-03 fan mount won't work. You might be able to find a fan mount that snaps onto the motor itself without smacking into the gearbox, but I don't know for sure. Hot Racing makes a snap-on fan mount that might work.

Today I crashed my XV-01 pretty hard.

I found a wide open street to drive on. And somehow my RC ended up under a parked cars' tire. I really had to crouch down use my weight to dislodge the car. It was stuck in there pretty good.

I broke was the front carbon reinforced A-arm, bent a steering tie-rod. I thought I bent the universal joint. But instead deformed the front rim, which is no longer usable. So all in all not so bad. I had some spare bits.

I'll have to get a pair of rims to replace the destroyed one. The tires are still pretty new. Has anyone used the Acetone method of removing tires from rims? I'd hate to waste money on new rims and tires, even though I have 2-3 sets coming from China, who knows when.

I use the acetone method all the time. It works well on some HPI tires, but Tamiya tires and other HPI tires shrink when the acetone dissolves oil out of the tires. Losi/Vaterra tires just disintegrate into goop when soaked in acetone.

Tamiya wheels are made of ABS plastic instead of nylon, and will dissolve in acetone. HPI wheels are fine though.

I guess we'll see what happens to the rims, foams and tires. The gravity RC rims seem to be made of not-nylon, more like a brittle plastic like those red beer cups. I am surprised they didn't break on impact, just warped.

So I finally got those $5 tires from China.

Pros:
For a complete set 4 pieces, the rubber, wheels, and foams are good. For bashing, street smashing, this is probably the best value per dollar, so far.

Cons:
Grip. The rubber is fine, but the profile of the tire is somewhat convex; Similar to that of a road bicycle tire. So only 70-80% of the tire is in actual contact with the surface. The foams inside might have an affect on this. If i ever get another set, I'd probably play around with cutting the foams so they aren't so pillow-y. After 2x5000mah packs ~1.5h of driving (hard, with donuts), the psuedo radial v-tread is almost gone, which then in essence make these slicks now There is however still quite of bit of rubber meat left. Who knows, maybe they will wear nice and flat.






Above are the Tires and Wheels I got from ebay for $5. (I know the tread is on backwards) They are almost worn out already so it wont matter

The Ride USGT tires are much more right angled at the edges, which helped with predictable cornering (IE, 4 wheel power slides). Whereas these convex profiled tires, are more likely to spin out in the back. Mind you I am testing them on some different streets. I am in Palm Springs for a couple of days (wife's company conference) drifting out on flat tarmac. Everything here has little pebbles and silty dust.

Today the performance of the car was, pretty good, but not as fun as the last couple runs. Probably because of convex-y tires are not as predictable. And also I am back to a sloppy front end because I replaced my busted carbon reinforced a-arms with the stock plastic and didn't bother to shim. It's so hot here. 105 Degree weather is heat soaking my motor and my face. Everything is slowly melting. I bet my motor was well over 175 Degrees after the all out turbo runs.

I need to find some way to cool down my motor. Would this do anything? Eagle Motor Heat Sink for XV-01

So I figured out a better way to deal with the spin out with those tires. Every set of tires.changes the handling characteristics of the car. Especially if you keep you ESC settings the same. Here, when making a 180 degree turn, with these pillowy tires, the rear end would cut lose and occasionally spin out. My solution was to go into the ESC settings and dial down the punch rates.

My ESC (hobbywing v3.1) has a throttle threshold. Which is set to 50%. So from 0-50% throttle, the ESC delivers 15/30 punch rate (I think of it as torque). From 51-100%, the ESC will deliver 30/30 PR (max torque)

For a while I was driving max torque all the time, and you can easily infer that the tires were breaking lose on low throttle. After the change, the car is much more predictable and easy to drive. Love it.

I also tried setting the car to 30 degrees of timing and 24degrees of turbo. My Max RPM was 49000+ I didn't want to hold the throttle down with the car off the ground because I didn't want to find out if the CA glue would hold the tires on. I think this car can easily hit 45mph with those settings. I am not about to find out since my street is so narrow with a ton of parked cars.

Back to zero timing. Which has plenty of torque. And runs cool as Fk. I might not get the top end but at least I can handle the car.

Back to happy driving again.

I am riding at 5mm ground clearance. I love it when it's slammed so low that it scrapes when the body rolls. #lowlife.

I got some 7mm wide wheel hex's. The stock ones are 5.5mm wide. Now the front wheels are flush, and the rear wheels are just a little inset into the body. Looks better. Handles pretty much the same.

I turned down my Radio TX CH.1 to 85%. This should help reduce spinout.

I also found out an even better way to manage heat and get crazy top end. Set your turbo to start at full throttle and at 15000 RPM+. Turn the turbo delay to 0.5s, instead of instant. This way even if you floor it (finger bang it?) It will still take 1/2 a second to engage, thus keeping you from running too hot.



Here is the tire wear since yesterday. I went out for maybe 3 more 5000mah runs. So the tires are slick, great traction. But again like the HPI X-partterns I had, the inner rim is where my tires seem to start wearing the quickest. I know not how to fix this. The rest of the tire (tread) is worn evenly. The pillowing is a lot less pronounced now, maybe that's why they hook up better.




I am also trying different springs. Softer than whites all around, seems to make the car handle more to my liking. Yellows up front, reds in the back. I might try reversing them too.

I've never used an ESC with turbo. My ESCs are all set to zero timing; I've never noticed a difference advancing the timing on a brushless motor. I notice it plenty when adjusting the endbell timing on a brushed motor, though.

Those tires wore down crazy fast. Camber-out the suspension until the tires stop wearing prematurely on the inner edge. Remember, the built-in caster means, when cornering, the tires camber-in relative to the corner, so cambering-out the suspension won't actually reduce grip.

I like the look of that fan mount. I think I'll get one to have handy in case I ever switch any of my front-motor cars to brushless.

Thanks for the suggestion. I cambered out just a hint. Tire wear is actually not as aggressive.

I used those drift wheels I made to guage the camber, it much easier to see when you wheels and tires are hard ABS plastic.

I posted in another thread about uneven tire wear. Basically exactly as you said, the built in caster affects the camber at turn in.

I also finally received my droop screws. I can't say for certain if its the droop screws, the camber out, or the esc reduction, that is keeping this car pretty stable. It is probably a combination of all of them.

Usually when I do slalom down the street, I will end up spinning out after 2 side to sides. Now the car is on point. I can slalom down the while street without washing out.

Magical.



Even though this is a toy car, it's quite interesting to see how these changes actually affects car handling.

Fyrstormer, have you messed around with the caster shims? I noticed that the kit comes with 3-4 different thicknesses. To reduce camber at turn, I would probably use the thinnest shim up front.

Just when you thought your car was dialed, you find another thing to tweak. Endless mucking.

I don't worry too much about making sure the camber settings are equal left-and-right; I just dial them so the tires all wear as evenly as possible. I do my best to ensure toe is equal left-and-right, though, because otherwise the steering gets wonky.

I'm not familiar with shims used to adjust the car's caster. There are shims that go under the toe-blocks. You can put the same height of shims under the front and rear toe-blocks to change the axle's roll center, or more shims under the front toe-block to produce an anti-squat effect when accelerating (only really useful on the rear axle), but you can't use those shims to adjust the caster on the front wheels without also changing the anti-squat effect at the same time. Maybe someone has added pro-squat to the front axle to prevent brake-dive with all that weight hanging off the front, but I've never personally tried it. That would also have the secondary effect of reducing the caster.

The only suspensions I've seen that allow adjusting caster using shims are pillow-ball suspensions, where the upper suspension arms can be moved forward or backward on their hinge pins by moving shims on the hinge pins. The Traxxas E-Revo comes to mind. The normal lower-A-arm/upper-camber-link suspension design generally requires replacing the caster block to change the caster setting, and I don't think there are any optional caster blocks for the XV-01 that have different caster settings.

On my rear-motor XV-01, I have the rear axle's toe blocks shimmed to add some anti-squat since there's so much weight sitting on the rear axle. On the rest of my XV-01s I keep the toe blocks level.

Caster is preset in these cars by the steering hub. The TC version uses the TC hubs and those are available on 4° and 6°. The XV version is set at 6° I believe there are no other options.

The shims you're referring to are probably for altering camber roll centre. They are placed under the turnbuckles to vary the camber roll.

Hrm Raman, roll center is another adjustment I have not delt with. I will have to look into that.

I was talking about the shim under the hinge pin block. There is one in the front-front, and another one in rear-rear. I think they are anti squat shims. The go under the wide hinge pin blocks.

I saw a diagram which showed a kickup angle + steering hub angle, which accumulated to the caster angle. My thoughts were that by replacing that shim it would add or subtract from the kickup angle. But I guess it would affect more than just caster.

I had really thought about trying the parts for the Xv-01 TC. Although I'd need to research all of those part numbers, and see if it's worth the cost. What does this afford? More tuning options? Wider track? I'd probably have to buy DCJ Universal's, bearings and other things. Might not be worth it. Does anyone have the complete list of parts?

Right now the car is set up pretty good.

Aside:
I ran a whole pack drifting. Now I know what I said before. But I think the experience completely changes when you run drift with a body on the chassis. It looks cool. And... You don't wear out your rubber tires. Lol. Still not as fun as ripping with rubber, but a good alternative. And, the runtimes are crazy long. I bet drifting was made by people who were tired of paying for rubber and sick of low run times. Lol