649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-02-2016, 07:31 PM
#2267
Don't have a b6. (Yet?)
Everyone getting equal traction with the standup as the b5m WITHOUT a ton of mods or compensating setup changes? Thx all
Everyone getting equal traction with the standup as the b5m WITHOUT a ton of mods or compensating setup changes? Thx all
08-02-2016, 07:35 PM
#2268
I was a point and shoot driver but learning to be smoother and this buggy really rewards you when you are.
08-02-2016, 10:44 PM
#2272
Thx! I'm trying to gauge if the car gives up a little traction in favor of more corner speed and tight handling. B6d I drove once reminded me of my X-ray before tuning it. My experience with the standup X-ray xb2 was that it was like driving a buggy in between my b5m and lay down Xb2 traction-wise. Felt like I gave up some grip for phenomenal handling. If it turns out the b6 gives up no grip for all the positives I think I'll have to get one....
08-02-2016, 11:08 PM
#2273
Using the alum D block and the 1 insert pointed inward gives the same width pivot as the b5
08-03-2016, 12:14 AM
#2274
That sounds like a tire or setup issue. If you're not running the narrow rear pivot that could be why the rear endon your b6 has good corner speed and a little too free in some conditions.
Using the alum D block and the 1 insert pointed inward gives the same width pivot as the b5
Using the alum D block and the 1 insert pointed inward gives the same width pivot as the b5
08-03-2016, 04:45 AM
#2275
Tech Regular
He's saying that if you get the aluminum D block, you can adjust the pivot width to be the same as the B5m. Do this by using the 1 deg inserts pointing inward in both the C and D blocks. This gives the same 3/1 setup as the kit, but with a narrower pivot width.
08-03-2016, 04:53 AM
#2276
Tech Regular
08-03-2016, 06:59 AM
#2279
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Can somebody point me to someplace I can try to learn about anti squat and roll centers? The B6D has a lot of adjustments in this area, but the manual doesn't really get into much detail about what changes you can expect by moving the pills in the C block. (Quite honestly the manual confuses the heck out of me here.)
Another newbie question about chassis weights. I see Associated has weighted C blocks which I can assume provides more rear grip. Is the purpose of the chassis weights to put more weight up front and provide a more "balanced" car?
Another newbie question about chassis weights. I see Associated has weighted C blocks which I can assume provides more rear grip. Is the purpose of the chassis weights to put more weight up front and provide a more "balanced" car?
