Time to upgrade?
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 45
From: Birmingham, AL
Sorry if this is in the wrong section!
So I got a bunch of old RC cars a while back, only one of which was really working. It has a Novak Rooster Reversible ESC and a Ruby 16 Turn motor. Both quite old.
It has an old Traxxas 27MHz TQ transmitter.
What I'm looking to do is get this car fast again(if it ever was). The motor is freshly cleaned, and as is it can barely keep ahead of me sprinting and I can tell you now, I'm no speed demon. I don't know much at all about RC cars so for all I know I won't need to get a new motor and esc to get it fast again, but to me it looks like I will. I am kinda looking at the Castle Sidewinder 3800KV combo for $120 but again, that's a lot of money..
It's only for driving in the empty school parking lot and on my driveway. Closest thing I'll get to racing is against my sister's stock Ruckus.
I'm already mostly decided on the FlySky GT3B Transmitter+Rec but am open to suggestions.
Note. I have a tiny budget. Between going to college next year and "trying" to restore my 85 Trans Am, the $35 transmitter isn't nothing to me. It will be a few weeks before I can purchase anything.
I also need battery suggestions. Right now I have some beat up Dynamite Speedpack Nimhs. We have like 4 but only the 3300Mah holds a charge anymore. I'll be happy when I can dispose of all of them and get some fresh batts. I'd rather stick with Nimhs even with all the pluses of lipo because I already have a charger albeit a cheap one(Hot Bodies Micro Peal Charger) But I'm fairly sure it's safe?
Thanks!!
Pictures:
So I got a bunch of old RC cars a while back, only one of which was really working. It has a Novak Rooster Reversible ESC and a Ruby 16 Turn motor. Both quite old.
It has an old Traxxas 27MHz TQ transmitter.
What I'm looking to do is get this car fast again(if it ever was). The motor is freshly cleaned, and as is it can barely keep ahead of me sprinting and I can tell you now, I'm no speed demon. I don't know much at all about RC cars so for all I know I won't need to get a new motor and esc to get it fast again, but to me it looks like I will. I am kinda looking at the Castle Sidewinder 3800KV combo for $120 but again, that's a lot of money..
It's only for driving in the empty school parking lot and on my driveway. Closest thing I'll get to racing is against my sister's stock Ruckus.
I'm already mostly decided on the FlySky GT3B Transmitter+Rec but am open to suggestions.
Note. I have a tiny budget. Between going to college next year and "trying" to restore my 85 Trans Am, the $35 transmitter isn't nothing to me. It will be a few weeks before I can purchase anything.
I also need battery suggestions. Right now I have some beat up Dynamite Speedpack Nimhs. We have like 4 but only the 3300Mah holds a charge anymore. I'll be happy when I can dispose of all of them and get some fresh batts. I'd rather stick with Nimhs even with all the pluses of lipo because I already have a charger albeit a cheap one(Hot Bodies Micro Peal Charger) But I'm fairly sure it's safe?
Thanks!!
Pictures:
#2
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 45
From: Birmingham, AL
Like I said, I don't know much about this. It could be impossible to change the motor in this car to brushless or something.
I don't know if it matters, but I checked the dimensions of the current motor and it's 1.5inx1.5in. Or 38mm x 38mm.
I don't know if it matters, but I checked the dimensions of the current motor and it's 1.5inx1.5in. Or 38mm x 38mm.
#3
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 23
The truck looks like a Tamiya Stadium Blitzer.
The old batteries may be limiting the speed of your truck; I would recommend buying new NIMH batteries. Older batteries may barely hold a charge, but wont give enough power to the motor. A new transmitter and receiver never hurts, the flysky would work great, though only buy it if the old radio doesnt work.
Inexpensive Tamiya kit trucks like this usually have weak transmissions, and cannot handle too much power. I would NOT recommend upgrading this to a powerful brushless system; the transmission might be damaged with the power. You might find it has plenty of power with the brushed motor, when you get a new NIMH battery.
The old batteries may be limiting the speed of your truck; I would recommend buying new NIMH batteries. Older batteries may barely hold a charge, but wont give enough power to the motor. A new transmitter and receiver never hurts, the flysky would work great, though only buy it if the old radio doesnt work.
Inexpensive Tamiya kit trucks like this usually have weak transmissions, and cannot handle too much power. I would NOT recommend upgrading this to a powerful brushless system; the transmission might be damaged with the power. You might find it has plenty of power with the brushed motor, when you get a new NIMH battery.
#4
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 45
From: Birmingham, AL
The truck looks like a Tamiya Stadium Blitzer.
The old batteries may be limiting the speed of your truck; I would recommend buying new NIMH batteries. Older batteries may barely hold a charge, but wont give enough power to the motor. A new transmitter and receiver never hurts, the flysky would work great, though only buy it if the old radio doesnt work.
Inexpensive Tamiya kit trucks like this usually have weak transmissions, and cannot handle too much power. I would NOT recommend upgrading this to a powerful brushless system; the transmission might be damaged with the power. You might find it has plenty of power with the brushed motor, when you get a new NIMH battery.
The old batteries may be limiting the speed of your truck; I would recommend buying new NIMH batteries. Older batteries may barely hold a charge, but wont give enough power to the motor. A new transmitter and receiver never hurts, the flysky would work great, though only buy it if the old radio doesnt work.
Inexpensive Tamiya kit trucks like this usually have weak transmissions, and cannot handle too much power. I would NOT recommend upgrading this to a powerful brushless system; the transmission might be damaged with the power. You might find it has plenty of power with the brushed motor, when you get a new NIMH battery.
What battery do you recommend? I'd like it to be something that can be purchased from the local hobby shop. As for the radio, the car is twitchy and doesn't have good range. It's more than bearable so the radio isn't first on my list, but it's there.
That's sad to hear. I will try a new battery and see how I like it. I'm a lot more of an on pavement kind of person even when the car is made for offroad, that's why I find it so slow I think.
Out of curiosity, are there any "kits"(On an extreme budget still) that come with everything but a Tx/Rx/ESC/Motor? But does have like the Servo, Transmission gears and stuff. Just throw in a motor/esc and rx. I know they probably don't make anything on my budget.. Again, sorry for the stupid questions!
#5
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 23
Honestly, any hobbyshop in your area should have batteries. What you want is a 6-cell 7.2V NIMH battery pack. You can bring one of your old batteries with you to the shop, to make sure it will fit. Choose the capacity of your choice; the larger, the better. 3300mAH or larger would be perfect.
The radio may currently be "twitchy" because of the weak batteries. If you try a new battery, and it still "twitches", then you can buy a new radio. I have a feeling a new battery should solve this problem.
The radio may currently be "twitchy" because of the weak batteries. If you try a new battery, and it still "twitches", then you can buy a new radio. I have a feeling a new battery should solve this problem.
#6
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 23
As for a new vehicle, you probably want a 1/10th on-road car. There are tons of vehicles, with different price ranges. Shop around!
Unfortunately, its tough to buy a car for speed, on a very low budget. I'd recommend shopping around, and saving up for a while to buy the car of your choice.
For now, you have the stadium blitzer to drive around! Buy a battery for it, and have fun!
Unfortunately, its tough to buy a car for speed, on a very low budget. I'd recommend shopping around, and saving up for a while to buy the car of your choice.
For now, you have the stadium blitzer to drive around! Buy a battery for it, and have fun!
#7
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 45
From: Birmingham, AL
Honestly, any hobbyshop in your area should have batteries. What you want is a 6-cell 7.2V NIMH battery pack. You can bring one of your old batteries with you to the shop, to make sure it will fit. Choose the capacity of your choice; the larger, the better. 3300mAH or larger would be perfect.
The radio may currently be "twitchy" because of the weak batteries. If you try a new battery, and it still "twitches", then you can buy a new radio. I have a feeling a new battery should solve this problem.
The radio may currently be "twitchy" because of the weak batteries. If you try a new battery, and it still "twitches", then you can buy a new radio. I have a feeling a new battery should solve this problem.
I've been told the reason why it's twitchy is because the crystals are two random matching ones out of a box and not what came with it. Not sure if that's true. But I will buy a battery first and see! Thanks!
As for a new vehicle, you probably want a 1/10th on-road car. There are tons of vehicles, with different price ranges. Shop around!
Unfortunately, its tough to buy a car for speed, on a very low budget. I'd recommend shopping around, and saving up for a while to buy the car of your choice.
For now, you have the stadium blitzer to drive around! Buy a battery for it, and have fun!
Unfortunately, its tough to buy a car for speed, on a very low budget. I'd recommend shopping around, and saving up for a while to buy the car of your choice.
For now, you have the stadium blitzer to drive around! Buy a battery for it, and have fun!
#8
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 23
But does it matter who makes it? Or just the cheapest 7.2v, 3300mAH+ they have?
I've been told the reason why it's twitchy is because the crystals are two random matching ones out of a box and not what came with it. Not sure if that's true. But I will buy a battery first and see! Thanks!
Thanks for the help and info so far!
I've been told the reason why it's twitchy is because the crystals are two random matching ones out of a box and not what came with it. Not sure if that's true. But I will buy a battery first and see! Thanks!
Thanks for the help and info so far!

You can check the crystals, and see if they are matched; usually they are color-coded. for instance, yellow, green, or red. If the color on the transmitter matches the color of the receiver, it should be a set.
If the crystals aren't matched, just go ahead and buy a new radio. with 2.4GHz, you'll never have to worry about crystals.
#9
Thread Starter
Tech Initiate
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 45
From: Birmingham, AL
Any brand should be OK for fartin' around.
You can check the crystals, and see if they are matched; usually they are color-coded. for instance, yellow, green, or red. If the color on the transmitter matches the color of the receiver, it should be a set.
If the crystals aren't matched, just go ahead and buy a new radio. with 2.4GHz, you'll never have to worry about crystals.
You can check the crystals, and see if they are matched; usually they are color-coded. for instance, yellow, green, or red. If the color on the transmitter matches the color of the receiver, it should be a set.
If the crystals aren't matched, just go ahead and buy a new radio. with 2.4GHz, you'll never have to worry about crystals.
Thanks!
#10
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 1
Hey all - I know I may be reviving a zombie thread here but I felt it my duty to report that you can easily upgrade your Stadium Blitzer to brushless.
The transmission in the Blitzer is sealed and actually pretty bulletproof for a brushless upgrade - I've run both a 3100 kv tazer twin esc brushless all in one combo and a cheap amazon sourced 4300 kv 60 amp esc and brushless combo (there's a few brands that all are about the same the one I got was chartsea and claims to be waterproof) .I don't really recommend anything above 3100 kv and don't bother with using a 3s lipo batt, 2s will suffice power wise and run time wise - 3s on the 4300 kv basically destroyed Every part I could break, although I've now rebuilt it 2x over in the front end and gearbox (when I blew out the rear control arm mount). I'm working in fabbing a wheelie bar since it pops wheelies immediately if you aren't light on power. Something in the mid 2500-3000 kv should be plenty fast, just make sure the esc is at least 60 amps . I ended up putting the 4300 in a slash I had a seized motor on and it has power for days, was too much for the Blitzer.
the Powertrain you will want to upgrade your pinion gear - 32 dp 13 t will do the trick (32 pitch with 13 tooth) - Traxxas has one as do some others, you may need a reducer sleeve if you get a 5mm pinion and have a 3.175 mm motor spindle as a heads up .use blue Loctite on the nut that holds in the pinion (BLUE! Red will be too hard to get out and clean off later when you inevitable have to fix something). Some recommend Tamiya aw grease which you can usually source from eBay (takes a while to deliver I've only ever gotten it from Japan) .some say a graphite lock liquid lube is similar but I have not tried that. I just gooped up the gears with the aw and it runs it smoother . Gear box is sealed so keeps it all in there .
I also upgraded tires to some duratrAx that go on a slash and had to add some extra bearings to make them work. Rears work as is, fronts need a second bearing in them for spacng on the outside. It's hard to find 2.2 tires that fit the original rims, I got rim and tire combo (this is extra $40-60 depending on your tires).
There's a trick to upgrade steering - flip the turnbuckles upside down (and left to right and vice versa since once they are upside down they need to go on other side) - this helps eliminate toe in and bump steer when suspension is compressed.
I got a cheap 2 ch flysky transmitter off Amzn for around 30 bucks to upgrade to digital from my old am futaba .
For about $70-80 you can make this thing fly, just be careful not to crash cause the front end can blow out components - they are fairly easy to find in ebay for cheap though . Another good upgrade is fast Eddy's bearing kit for around $20 . A lipo batt on Amazon will be around $20-40 and a charger will be another $20-40 as a heads up . Oh and I had to upgrade front shocks cause mine had long ago broken before this rebuild - the ones I have are a little big haven't quite locked in that end.
I also upgraded tires to some duratrAx that go on a slash and had to add some extra bearings to make them work. Rears work as is, fronts need a second bearing in them for spacng on the outside. It's hard to find 2.2 tires that fit the original rims, I got rim and tire combo (this is extra $40-60 depending on your tires).
There's a trick to upgrade steering - flip the turnbuckles upside down (and left to right and vice versa since once they are upside down they need to go on other side) - this helps eliminate toe in and bump steer when suspension is compressed.
I got a cheap 2 ch flysky transmitter off Amzn for around 30 bucks to upgrade to digital from my old am futaba .
For about $70-80 you can make this thing fly, just be careful not to crash cause the front end can blow out components - they are fairly easy to find in ebay for cheap though . Another good upgrade is fast Eddy's bearing kit for around $20 . A lipo batt on Amazon will be around $20-40 and a charger will be another $20-40 as a heads up . Oh and I had to upgrade front shocks cause mine had long ago broken before this rebuild - the ones I have are a little big haven't quite locked in that end.



