;14562304]I learned a valueable lesson. The bullet connectors from the Hobbywing 1060 and the dynamite motor I got....garbage. they melted through the plastic cover and shorted together.....checked the voltage at the esc and only 400mv came out. Resistance was 12000 ohms. Pretty sure I blew the esc. Tried hooking the silver can up and still nothing.

Does anyone know the voltage that should be coming out of the esc wires?I'm assuming more than 400mv?[/QUOTE]

Stock "bullets" are crap. Tamiya battery connectors are crap. The wiring that comes attached to either? Also crap. It'll heat up and slow you down. A prime examp,e of crap is pictured below. Viewer discretion is advised.

Jim how would you go about changing the wires from the esc then....they look a little hard to get off of the esc and reattach new ones don't they?? Or do you mean the motors?

And yes I will be using dean's for now...I like the clean look and plug to disassemble easier. It's building these that are the best part for me...driving them is really just an awesome bonus!

Kid's first race was a mixed affair. For me it was pretty hard work trying to keep 2 cars running, look after her, and race myself.

For her, she broke her car in heat 1 (ball joint pulled out, fixed with a bit of super glue). Managed to finish her other heats but then broke a steering knuckle in the final.

She crashed, a lot. 2 laps was her best, she was so much worse at driving there than when we were bashing. She enjoyed it, she was scared, I was proud. We've got a 4 week break now so I said she really needs to play with her car more before then.

Anybody???

Make a BIG bumper for her. It will save you a bunch of time and effort at the track.

Here's one that I made. The holder/bracket was a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum angle, screwed to the front of the chassis. The bumper section is some 1/8" ABS. Make it much wider than the body, so it protects the front wheels when they are at full lock. (No, this isn't legal for most racing, but it's likely nobody will object if it's on a beginner's car.) The foam section (from an old touring car) is cut to fit right up against the body.

Good plan, I thought about just giving her the one off my car but I think big is good. The one on my pan car is pretty chewed up and a replacement is on the way. I might shoe goo that onto the bumper area on hers and put gorilla tape top and bottom to firm it up a bit.

...she was worse in the race then when you were bashing.
Yes, I remember my first races, ...my hands would literally shake from being nervous. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't keep my hands steady. It literally took like a full season before my nerves went away. Give her time and don't give up, ...w/ experience she'll gain confidence and better control.

My oldest son is 10, I think he is about ready to come out w/ me to a race soon. He has gone to practice w/ me and he is pretty good (kids seem to pick this up quickly and easily). Yet not sure he'll be able to handle a full race day ... I really don't want to hear "dad can we go home"! -he likes racing, but a full 8am to 6pm may be a lot to ask.
We'll see, maybe i'll bring him for my last race. I too may start him w/ a Tamiya mini. -Parts are easy to replace and not expensive ...plus the speeds are relatively slow so he can focus on just getting around the course.

I have one but haven't used it yet, ...
...but a good rule of thumb,

less timing for a tight track w/ slower speeds (you want more torque)
higher timing for more rpm on a faster track.

W/ that said, do you have a temp gauge? I literally put my timing all the way up as far as I can go on a fast track w/o exceeding 155-160 degrees f. Most guys including myself adjust timing after every heat ...you just have to gauge how your car is compared to the others ...want more speed or more torque.

Not sure if this applies to this Mach 3 motor, but it works for me for every motor I've ever run. I do have a reedy mach 3 17.5 in my TC car ...and w/ that reedy motor I adjust timing every run according to track and motor temps.

I was shaking when she was racing

I so proud of her for getting up and doing it, she was scared but didn't back down.

2 minute laps for her, I think the car was behaving a bit weirdly at times but I got her radio setup in a decent way, weirdly I think she might need a faster servo.

Which ESC are you running? If the kit ESC, I suggest you just remove the bullet connectors and replace them with Deans for now, unless you want to take it apart and solder new leads to the PCB (not really worth it imho as they can't crank out much amps anyway).

Another reason to go aftermarket ESC.. it is easy to re-solder new leads.

But not to scare people away from using the bone stock kit ESC and connector setup. For the most part, running the silver can motors will be fine for bashing around with bullet and Tamiya connectors. My kid runs that setup all the time and no issue.

Ya this is a 15T motor and it warms things up pretty good. The esc is a Hobbywing QuicRun 1060. The leads touched and it fried. I ordered another one for 23 bucks shipped CANADIAN lol. Ordered some deans for it and a soldering gun aswell. Learning still too but at least it was a cheap mistake. Could have been worse.

The 3 racing gear diff with 300K oil is amazing! Perfect amount of pull and it corners really nice now coming out of th corners. Great investment.

I'm going to use the stock wires for now on the esc and motor. I'm not competing in anything just having fun so I'm not worried about that.

Thanks Eric, it does help! I couldn't remember the proper Operating Temps and couldn't find any references on here to them! I don't have a Temp Gauge yet, but I'm gonna get one tomorrow. This should help us out a bunch!!!
Again thanks for the tips!
Mike

Personally I'd stay away from those $23 ESC's ...for the price you've paid for two you could have got a pretty decent Speed Passion Club Stock one. I am sure many have had good luck w/ the $20 eBay ESC's, but i've also seen way too many people have issues w/ them. ...i get that your issue was a little different in touching the leads caused the problems.

As for the deans plugs, make sure you get the real deans plugs not the knock offs (which again are much cheaper in price). The real ones will be able to withstand higher temps.

just my 2cents.

oh, yeah, get yourself a temp gauge, ...you can get one for like $30 from most hobby stores. Mine is about the size of a key fob for your 1:1 car ...I keep it in my pocket on race day and practices ...I measure temps after each heat. In general you don't want your motor getting above about 165-170. I always keep my motor temp below 160, usually 155ish.

...so does anyone know if the JCW body was indeed discontinued? Is it still legal to run at events? ...