Personally I never had the problem, but enough people had some issues in the previously model so it was included in the .3. Just do it barely tight enough you start to feel some resistance, and REMEMBER to loosen when you go to unscrew (surprised at how many forget that ).

Yes, quick clean of the screw and a small amount of loctite is all that's needed. Honestly I typically only do it first install and am good from there on out unless I'm replacing screws.

Battery wise, 200g is nothing. These things are ballistic missiles I tried the 4500 for a while, but honestly it's a pain to get it where you want to sit. If they made perhaps a short (height, not length), then I would try it again. So I would honestly just grab the 6500 of whatever manufacture you prefer.

I am running a smc 5200 and 6500 and just purchased another 6500. I believe you want at least 5000 for 10min mains on large tracks.

Loctite and tighten down all the metal to metal grub screws. In fact, the ones on the front and rear diff, I would clean with brake cleaner, etc. to get all the oil off. The ones on the plastic hubs are used to hold the screws in (4 per hub, 16 total). They should just be tighten until you fell a little resistance like the manual says because they tighten up against the screw threads.

I think the southern Nats steers predictably. But does have more mechanical throw than the kit setup. He removed some setup steering then shortened the link and added more mechanical along with some bump out.
I felt on high/medium bite the kit felt twitchy. But never ran it with a shock and spring change. Might have toned it down on more traction.
My 2 cents, lol

forgot that I am not using the kit springs.. using pink and red springs. Going to change the diffs and go a tad heavier with the shock oil and see what that does this week.

damn,i guess i put this in the wrong thread...is the chassis brace usage or lack there of in this buggy a problem for you guys?does the chassis bend easily?or wear of fast?

Like a majority of the set-ups for this buggy, I ran without the center and rear chassis braces for a few months. I struggled to get the buggy to rotate through turns as smooth and quick as I prefer. My .2 buggy was much faster through a turn and I was chasing that same feeling. I tried heavier springs, higher oils, thicker sway bars, little to no anti-squat, camber link changes, shock location changes, etc. and I still felt like the buggy's rear was stuck to the ground. Then I squared off a metal poll at full wood and bent the front center drive-shaft in ways you can't imagine .

I decided to put the center and rear chassis brace back in the car after replacing the drive-shaft. I figured if nothing else, I don't want that kind of chassis flex that allowed the drive shaft to bend like than and perhaps it would help the rear end of the car to rotate through the turns better. It was like a whole different car, it turned much smoother, was incredibly consistent and predictable and rotated through the turns like a dream. I did that after racing indoors which was on a higher grip surface. I was worried that when I went outdoors on a looser surface that the car might lack traction, but decided to leave my indoor set-up on the car for outdoors.

I'm hear to tell you my .3 is just dialed at this point. I know my set-up is running counter to a majority of them, but I feel like this car is soo much better with all the braces in!

so i see in your sigline you also have a mugen?can you say which you prefer?

hey guys, so im new to electric and just got this buggy coming from the nt48.3. im going to be running tekin 1900 or 2050 kv 14.8v 4s blah blah blah. my question is, im going to running high voltage servos ( savox or protek) do i need anything else to keep my electronics safe? or can i plug, charge and go? btw yes my receiver can take 7.4v. thanks

Does a shorter rear camber Link help the rear rotate a little better?I think I remember a longer link meant more rear traction in turns.

Your ESC will take the battery and output 6.0 or 7.4v if it outputs HV from its BEC. That will be what is going through your rx and to the servos and such, rather than battery voltage.

A shorter link will tend to change between states more quickly with less traction overall. For example, it will have more traction until it breaks free more suddenly and then will lock down again more quickly. Longer will have more traction overall and break free more gradually and more predictably.

This is for me when I brake and turn, then want to throttle out straighter.

So I've rebuilt my one race day shocks 3 times and no matter what I do, the front end seems very 'springy'. I'm doing vented bladder. I've tried with no redound, 10% rebound and even 50%. It just seems very springy. No matter if I have the stock black springs or the pink. Any ideas? Rears are built with 0 rebound and feels very plush.

425 front with pinks 27mm height
475 reads with reds 29mm height.

Just a tuning option. I have never run the rear or center braces in my .2 or .3 and have never bent the chassis, or had any wear issues. The front brace has to stay in though no matter what.

I assume you are feeling these with the car ready to drive? Are you using the stock pistons?
Does it feel springy on the track, or just on the bench?

Yes stock Pistons. On bench. Haven't had time to go to the track yet. Yes, mounted ready to drive.