Is this body Lexan? I have the Rally body and it's... thin and brittle.

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Yes, it is lexan not like the lc racing bodies

Nvm

Check the set screws on the center shaft. I doubt that's the problem but it can't hurt to check.

For other guys running at the track, how do you mitigate the on power understeer? This thing pushes wide hard under throttle. Or do you point and shoot the thing? I also feel like the rear springs are too soft. Even at full preload, I can't get the dogbones parallel to the ground. Running 35wt in the rear.

In the continuing 3s havoc, I smoked my front spider gears. One of the 2 bearings that support the front gearshaft/yoke exploded. This let the front spider gear walk over the place and shear the teeth. Until my parts come in, I dropped the driveshaft and removed the yoke and am driving in RWD. Fun on the street, almost undriveable in dirt/grass. Thinking of throwing heavier diff oil in there to get some better lockup. It diffs out prettty hard now. Also thinking of just getting 2S batteries haha. I've also killed about 3 rear hub bearings.

I've kind of rolled my own truggy version. I decided to get a truggy body, and go up in wheel size as well. I used a Losi mini eight T (truggy) body and wing. The normal mini eight body is too short, so make sure you get the T body. I used the Tacon buggy wing mount. Normally you can't combine the short course bumpers and the wing, because they want to mount to the same holes. So I used longer screws, and small shim behind the top mount. If you want to use the stubby little buggy bumpers, you don't need to do this. I tend to flip my truck and other wanton destruction, so the bigger bumpers are cheap insurance. I'm running 1/10 rear buggy tires all around. You'll still have to cut the wheel wheels to clear at steering lock, and it'll rub the wing at full compression. More importantly, you'll run out shock travel before bottoming out the chassis, so watch it on the big jumps otherwise you may start to bend shock towers and rip A arms and the such out. Still figuring out a solution to this.


I melted probably 4 pinions learning to set the mesh right. The slipper also needs to be only 0.5-1 turn out from full tight, otherwise it'll slip at full throttle from a roll. I stepped down to a 15t pinion to try and keep the motor and ESC happy with the bigger wheels. It will still go into thermal ESC shutdown if I full throttle bash for about 10 minutes straight. Full throttle means wheelies at any speed, and damn near uncontrollable honestly. I turned down braking force to 50% to try and keep the gears happy.

I have Valor wheels and tires on now, offset is much better. The tires balloon like crazy though. Any other tires that fit this rim?

@Fatal, I only run 2s as 3s is a recipe for something to get broken.

Yes I think the stock shocks are too soft as well. LC Racing makes thicker 1.2mm and 1.3mm shocks for the front and back - plus thicker oil really helps the shocks.

As far as under steer... anything at full throttle will probably under steer, esp since this car is so light. If you put heavier diff fluid in the rear, it will make the under steer even worse. If anything I would think putting heavier fluid in the front would help drag the car around corners instead of pushing from the rear.

Since you have already messed with the wing mount, you can actually double up most parts on the car if you want to make it bash "proof". The front tower, rear tower, and deck brace are all ripe for doubling up.

LC Racing has also different springs to tune the shocks

Just found this official thread. Couple of questions:

1. Will the truggy wing work the buggy?

2. Where can I buy option shock springs in the US?

3. Why are the front tires narrower that the rears? Is it okay to run all the same width like in 8th scale buggies?

Thanks everyone!

not sure what version people are looking at here for questions on shock springs, but there is a setup posted probably a few pages back concerning drilling the stock pistons and going with losi Mini 8ight springs.

I did this on my SCT version, and it was perfect with the right tires for traction (stock SCTs are too grippy on carpet here, USVTA legal tires actually work quite well and make the truck look the part too)

Thanks, Cain will check it out. However, I would still prefer the OEM option springs in the PDF from LC Racing's support page. If it is not going to be possible to find in the US, I will try the 8ight springs (and wing too if the truggy wing is a no-go).

Check with Thumb RC on facebook. He's the only LC dealer in the states and has excellent service. He tries to keep most parts on hand.

Thanks Hobbyten! The springs aren't on the ThumbRC or NitroRCX websites. They are the only US dealers I know of.

Message Tom on facebook he may have them even though there not listed.

Good idea Hobbyten! If he does have them, I'll report back as others seem to want them too.

The truggywing will give the same of downforce as the stock wing but it is molded instead of the PVC which tended to break after a crash.