1/12 forum
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,879
From: Fort Collins, CO
If you are talking about 'true' mod 1/12 (3.5T or 4.0T), rollout should be somewhere between 32 and 38 mm, depending on track size and layout. Speedo settings vary, but on indoor carpet tracks we normally use no turbo and somewhere around 15 degrees of boost as a starting point.
If you are talking about 'true' mod 1/12 (3.5T or 4.0T), rollout should be somewhere between 32 and 38 mm, depending on track size and layout. Speedo settings vary, but on indoor carpet tracks we normally use no turbo and somewhere around 15 degrees of boost as a starting point.
Boca bearings sells cheap, reliable bearings, but you may need to know exactly what you need.
$0.99 if you get it right, though. Keep the calipers and your old bearings handy when you are ordering.
$0.99 if you get it right, though. Keep the calipers and your old bearings handy when you are ordering.
Most just leave the motor at roughly factory settings (20-30deg depending on the motor) then add the small amount of timing in the ESC
Yeah, as Skiddins and others have already mentioned, you should run timing around 20~30 degrees. I personally run mine at around 25 degree (can timing) and then work my boost and turbo settings (LRP Flow). But for someone starting out with modified, I would leave the ESC in blinky settings and once you feel comfortable work in some ESC boost and timing.
I wouldn't even attempt to run 50 degrees of timing, that's insane. It will just generate too much heat to the motor and will cause the ESC to thermal.
What will happen when running modified is the ESC will get quite hot compared to your motor.
I wouldn't even attempt to run 50 degrees of timing, that's insane. It will just generate too much heat to the motor and will cause the ESC to thermal.
What will happen when running modified is the ESC will get quite hot compared to your motor.
Thanks all for the tips and where to start.
(I used 50 deg as a example as this is the typical timing used on a 21.5 touring car running blinky.)
I've ordered a Fantom FR-1 5.0 turn motor to try out in blinky with 25 deg timing.
Would a rollout of 34-40mm be a good start?
(I used 50 deg as a example as this is the typical timing used on a 21.5 touring car running blinky.)
I've ordered a Fantom FR-1 5.0 turn motor to try out in blinky with 25 deg timing.
Would a rollout of 34-40mm be a good start?
Paul Lemiux told me one time not to use blinky mode when running mod. He said it is the most aggressive setting and it would be better to use mod software and start with very low boost and turbo settings and go from there.
I agree with 303, the blinky settings in an ESC are often very aggressive in the throttle ramping and can make the car have more punch than almost anyone can control. BUT, if you have a radio with servo-speed adjustment like my Sanwa MT-4, 20-30 ticks to slow the slew rate in the throttle can make even the most punchy modified motor much more tame.
I found it easier to leave the ESC on a more normal setting and take the excessive punch out with the radio because you can adjust the settings during a practice run instead of pulling the car off the track and plugging in the ESC. When it is running right, the car feels a lot more like it has an engine instead of an electric motor with its max torque at 0 rpm.
As for boost and turbo, most of my running modified has been with an old LRP Stock Spec V2, and its first tick of boost is a LOT of boost. I imagine if I was using my Hobbywing with its extremely fine boost and turbo tuning I would add a little to keep the car accelerating down the end of the straight, but I am still a little scared of overshooting the sweeper and then visiting the parts section of the hobby shop.
On a related note, turn down the minimum drive or initial throttle setting in the ESC, if you have one. Some stock settings have 7-10% throttle as the minimum drive to prevent cogging of high-timing strung out 17.5's, but 10% throttle running a 4.0 is going to make lining up on a starting grid or putting slowly around the track a little difficult.
I found it easier to leave the ESC on a more normal setting and take the excessive punch out with the radio because you can adjust the settings during a practice run instead of pulling the car off the track and plugging in the ESC. When it is running right, the car feels a lot more like it has an engine instead of an electric motor with its max torque at 0 rpm.
As for boost and turbo, most of my running modified has been with an old LRP Stock Spec V2, and its first tick of boost is a LOT of boost. I imagine if I was using my Hobbywing with its extremely fine boost and turbo tuning I would add a little to keep the car accelerating down the end of the straight, but I am still a little scared of overshooting the sweeper and then visiting the parts section of the hobby shop.
On a related note, turn down the minimum drive or initial throttle setting in the ESC, if you have one. Some stock settings have 7-10% throttle as the minimum drive to prevent cogging of high-timing strung out 17.5's, but 10% throttle running a 4.0 is going to make lining up on a starting grid or putting slowly around the track a little difficult.



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