I have 2 mito's, a Murnan and a stock one can't fault either the Murnan is my favourite by far. I have only ever owned these 2 so can't really compare to the others.

Good luck with that OS on RB fuel!!! I fear the same result will occur.

Run it on Runner Time (as you should have the Mito) and you'll get much better results.

Just to compare my Mito is at about 5hrs on Runner Time and still has that lovely nip at TDC when the engine is cold.

BTW you didn't say what the engine was doing when running? When are you 'feeling' the compression when the engine is cold or when at operating temperature (or close to it?)

What's so great about Runner Time fuel?

Try it you'll soon understand! The oil mix used really does work in reducing wear and operating at lower temperatures than some other fuels. There are currently only 3 brands of fuel I trust with runner time my preferred fuel. The others are Meccafuel (Meccamo) and Maxima.

Picco .12 takes glow plug p6tc not pth6 right?

I'd prefer a technical explanation. What is different about the lubricant package in their fuel?

Any engine takes any glowplug as long as it screws into the cylinder head. All that matters is whether the engine runs smoothly. I start with medium plugs and adjust from there. I have two engines that take hot plugs, one is tiny (.08 cubic inches) and the other runs in freezing-cold weather. An engine that spends most of its time above 50% load in warm weather will probably need a medium-cold or cold plug, though a medium plug may assist with break-in to keep the engine running while the fuel mixture is rich. I prefer O'Donnell plugs, because the coils glow brighter than other brands I've tried (to help with startup), but they don't burn out any faster.

Don't believe anyone who tells you that you absolutely must run a specific brand of glowplug, or that you can never change the brand or heat-range once you've broken-in the engine. Nitro glowplugs all use the same technology, just use whichever brand is convenient for you to get your hands on, and figure out which heat range works best for your application. When you change brand or heat-range you'll need to double-check the engine temperature every couple minutes and tweak the fuel mixture as necessary for the first couple runs, but there's absolutely no reason you *can't* change plugs any time you want.

Can we even get runner time in the USA?

Each engine manufacturer has a different taper on the head button. If you do switch to say an odonnell plug as you mention I would check compression on your engine. You may also mess up the threads causing the glow plug to leak fuel. It is always a good idea to use the plugs for your make of engine. OS with OS, Picco with Picco, Nova with Nova.....you can always change the temp range of the glow plug just stay in the same family.

Nope. Each manufacturer has a slightly different taper.

Novarossi is compatible with OS and vice versa. PICCO is PICCO. If you put a Novarossi or os plug in a PICCO engine you'll screw the head. I don't know the taper on an o'donnel plug however I wouldn't use these just because they glow brighter

The plug selection is CRITICAL to the performance of the engine. You MUST select a plug with the right body length and coil type/temperature to match the engine size as well as application and level of nitro in the fuel. For example you would use a long body hotter plug in an offroad .21 whereas you'd use a cooler shorter body plug in a .21 onroad engine (for the same amount of nitro). Less nitro - hotter plug. More nitro - cooler plug. Bigger engine - cooler plug.

With regards to the Runner Time oil package well this is a closely guarded secret as with most of the Top Brand fuels. They will tell you the total oil percentage and that it is a mix of caster and/or synthetic lubricants but almost certainly will not tell you how that oil is blended. Runner Time use a mix of caster and synthetic and the results speak for themselves. Meccafuel and Maxima are also extremely good fuels for the same reason. If an engine is squeaky clean after running then chances are the fuel is fully synthetic which isn't a good thing.

Synthetic oil work on lower temperature, castor oil work higher temperature, that's why most of the fuel mix with both lubricant

From my experience, Picco plug definitely doesn't fit Nova. Not sure of other engines' fittings. O'Donnell for sure fits Nova engines. Lots of guys use them in Nova engines w/o leakage so I'd say there's no issue there. I switched from Nova to O'Donnell plug during the heats and I didn't really notice any big change but I'm sure there will be some change to some more knowledgeable people. The fitting and thread and taper all that are important and I honestly don't know the measurement and all but I'm just saying from my experience. Once I messed up my Ison with Picco plug having leakage pretty bad when I tried to break it in. I guess I need a new button LOL. But it's not even worth it since the engine was so cheap.

The reason each manufacturer has a slightly different taper on the glowplug interface (only for turbo glowplugs of course, not normal ones) is because the thinnest part of the taper is *expected* to deform slightly from the pressure of the glowplug being tightened into place. This produces a tight seal. Each manufacturer uses their favorite aluminum alloy for the head button, so each manufacturer adjusts the exact angle of the taper to account for whatever their computer model says will happen to the head button when the glowplug is installed. (if you don't think a turbo head button deforms slightly when the glowplug is installed, try removing the head button without removing the plug first -- at least in my Picco engines, the head button is jammed tight in the sleeve when the plug is installed, but is easy to remove when the plug is removed first.)

I definitely haven't used every brand of engine available, so I suppose it's possible some manufacturers make their head-button tapers different enough that you really can't use certain brands of plugs with them, but the guys at my shop have never heard of such a thing. (at least one of them used to race a couple times a week for years, so I tend to defer to him regarding touring-car advice.) I suspect the vast majority of actual damage is caused by people over-torquing their turbo glowplugs because they don't bottom-out quite as solidly as normal glowplugs do, and since engines that use turbo plugs tend to be a lot more expensive, people chalk it up to "proprietary design" and are paranoid thereafter because repair parts cost so much.

Anyway, I use O'Donnell plugs in all my engines, including my Picco engines. They work like a charm and I can see varnish buildup only on the face of the glowplug, not at all on the taper, so nothing is leaking past the seal.

Pure castor oil, yes. Degummed castor oil doesn't break down the same way as it heats up. Pure castor oil breaks down into even better lubricants, only losing its lubricating ability when it finally breaks down all the way to varnish. I wonder if Runner Time fuel has pure castor oil in its lubricant package. I know I saw a big improvement just from adding 1% pure castor to my Byron's 30%/11% fuel, which advertises that it contains degummed castor oil.

How much caster oil are you adding to a gallon of Byrons.
I ran my Mito last weekend at the open practice for Airtronics Gp Mito motor is smooth fast great topend. I ran with a friend of mine with my friend that has Edo Modified and my Mito ran just as hard as a Edo.