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Old 11-12-2017 | 07:25 AM
  #31  
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I wish there weren't so many speedbumps in my apartment complex. That causes a lot of problems for filming running videos with touring cars.

Maybe I can use the local tennis court. It's flat and smooth. Hopefully they've taken down the nets for the winter now.
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Old 01-24-2018 | 10:55 PM
  #32  
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Another cool project! I like your out of the box thinking. The GT3 RS body looks awesome. I once drove a real one in the exact same color, can never get it out of my head!
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Old 01-25-2018 | 02:51 PM
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I've never even seen a GT3 RS in person, much less had the opportunity to drive one. I'm a little envious now.
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Old 08-09-2018 | 05:33 AM
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Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but how did you mount the whole front motor/transmission/diff/bulkhead shebang on the rear? And the rear on the front? Is it symmetrical/identical mounting? Because you are tempting me in ways I didn't know possible....

Is it possible to fit a shorty lipo as well?
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Old 08-09-2018 | 09:59 PM
  #35  
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Sure, you can fit a shorty LiPo pack. The battery compartment is sized for a full-size LiPo pack, so you'd just stuff the remaining space with foam to keep a shorty pack from rattling around.

Mounting the front gearbox in the rear was slightly more complicated than I expected, but not a Herculean effort. The bottom part of each gearbox is keyed to fit only in the front or the rear, and the top part of each gearbox is keyed to fit only its corresponding bottom part, but some careful cutting can make the top half of the front gearbox fit the bottom half of the rear gearbox, and vice-versa. Then you have to drill new holes for screws to go completely through the mounting tabs that hold the top and bottom parts together, so you can secure them with screws and nuts. The piece that attaches the front gearbox to the top of the main chassis also has some screw holes that don't quite line up with the top part of the rear gearbox, and the piece that attaches the rear gearbox to the top of the main chassis has some screw holes that don't quite line up with the top part of the front gearbox, but if you cut the screw holes so they become slots instead, you can still pass screws through to anchor everything together properly.

I wish Tamiya had just made the front and rear gearboxes completely interchangeable, but the modifications needed to swap the front and rear gearboxes are doable in a single afternoon.
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Old 08-10-2018 | 04:16 AM
  #36  
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Thanks for the info, but that is waaaaaaayyyyy too much drilling and hacking for my own comfort....
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Old 08-10-2018 | 10:43 AM
  #37  
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It's just plastic. Spare parts don't cost very much. I didn't even need spare parts; I got it right on my first try, and I was improvising the whole way.
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Old 11-02-2018 | 11:54 PM
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amazing!!!
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Old 11-03-2018 | 09:03 AM
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Such a cool build. So which do you like driving better? Motor in front or motor in rear?
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Old 11-03-2018 | 12:05 PM
  #40  
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Nicely mod. The layout reminds me of my Kyosho optima.
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Old 11-04-2018 | 12:01 AM
  #41  
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Yep! I have one of those too.
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Old 11-04-2018 | 01:13 AM
  #42  
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Well done! 👍👍👍

By the way, what guage or thickness did you use for the front and rear CF shock towers? The front looks like it's 4mm. Are they from Tamiya or aftermarket?
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Old 11-04-2018 | 02:11 AM
  #43  
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Those are Tamiya CF shock towers. I think they're 3mm. I ended up switching to the carbon-reinforced-plastic shock towers instead. They don't twist as much as the CF shock towers did, because they're thicker and have carbon fibers running in all directions through the plastic.
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