JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

My testing with the aluminum chassis has showed that it is slower in low to med bite traction vs the carbon chassis. This is just with a direct chassis swap with no setup changes. I'm sure I could get more out of it, but the difference was immediately noticeable through slower lap times. However, the car remained very composed and was relatively flat in the corners. I'm sure it will make a big difference on high bite tracks were traction rolling is a concern. Hope to test it out on the new CRC carpet within a month. Also wanted to note this was with the Xenon frontend. I cannot use the new frontend on my V2 carbon. So I'm trying to do apples to apples comparison with carbon vs aluminum chassis. Hope this helps.

landau

I run with and watched cristian's car last Sunday race. I seemed no fault in aluminum chassis.
We put balance weight on the chassis. That is not low CG.
Aluminum chassi is ultimately low. In addition, this chase allow driver large tire because rare traction roll.　Cristian said. I think so too.
RSD aluminum has black and smooth surface that may helps additional corner speed.

For double arm, I think the key point of W-arm V2 is check spring stopper nut.
At first this stopper is work well, but after some runs this aluminum parts easy to loose during 8 minutes run. I apply glue to screw and wait for drying because preventing screw loose.
After run, if ride hight is over different from before, like as 1mm or more, your car should gradually loose string response and your lap time maybe over 1 second between best and worst.
For keeping consistency, this stopper nut must prevent loose.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Good info. Did you do some weight savings measures to test it? Otherwise it might be a good thing to add the additional weight to the carbon car for a better comparison side to side. The alloy chassis is 20g heavier, and that I would say is a substantial amount.

Additionally, like landau posted, I have noticed that larger tires run well, so perhaps, a slightly taller tire can help in conditions of lower bite.

What is missing on your car to make it work for the double a arm on the CF chassis?

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

I would say that maybe adding 20g to the carbon chassis might seem more fair, but then again this is where the carbon as the advantage over the aluminum. It's kind of like saying we should add 14g to the car when comparing laps times with a D4s vs R1 motors because the R1 is that much heavier. It is what it is. Maybe try and do more weight reduction to the aluminum? But then it might lose it's low cg advantage? I dunno. Maybe try 20g worth of cutouts and see how it affects flex. Do more prototyping. I'm down for that. Just look at the new XRay Aluminum chassis on the T4 for example.

Anyways, I'll PM you details on my carbon chassis. Or I might email it to you. I'm trying to compile pictures and data right now.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Is it your arms that don't match? Remember your chassis was my original prototype, and the hole for the screw on the arms had to be moved, so it has some one-off arms. If you need different ones, I can send you some for your carbon car. However on the double a arm front, you kinda want to run the aluminum chassis. It balances the car out better.

I don't think that more weight reduction is in the plans for the current chassis. My car as is is at 727g and losing more by the day. I run a HW v3.1 and it's a bit on the heavy side, so I know I can shed some there. The aluminum chassis works out well on this car because of the front end being very light. If it is running with any other front end we would need a lighter chassis for it, but then we would have an issue with durability I would think. The touring cars have a top deck and even then that new XRAY TC Chassis is a perfect candidate for bending in some hardish' hits. We also want people learning to use our double a arm front suspension, it is substantially faster than reverse strut. I did some driving with one of our prototype reverse strut today and while it felt great, the car simply does not carry as much speed in the middle of the corner.

I understand your motor analogy and the experiment was for all purposes, done correctly. But( here comes the but), I don't think you took "racing guidelines" as a constraint, as you should have done in your experiment. I think that if we were really under weight like on a TC, then adding weight is not an issue, as we all have to come back up to meet minimum. However in 12th scale the game is all about cutting weight to get as close to minimum as possible.

Personally I would never run something on my car if it is already above or close to minimum weight and adds 20+g and think it would be much more capable because of the weight penalty. It is simply an excessive number. You can deal with 8-12g, but 20g+! I would think the car is going to be slower due to the extra weight and our longer races with lower voltage batteries. The car will fade more as well. This is why I think adding the weight to run at a similar total would make the results far more valid and would be a more apples to apples comparison. Because in a real racing scenario, I would assume that you would want to make the efforts to get your car down to as close to minimum as is possible. I don't think the hotlap will be much different, but the end is going to be a bit slower. I think that in spec classes, the aluminum chassis will most likely only be faster if we slim them down enough. Especially in 17.5.

Additionally, without the double wishbone front end, our car's weight balance is just like any other car with conventional, heavier front ends. Factor in that the car has an additional 20g of the chassis in front of the rear pivot and it's going to translate into a much different weight balance on the car and slower lap times without at least making some changes to optimize the set up.

I know, sort of splitting hairs here, but when I run experiments, I typically want to simulate as close as possible as to what I think someone would do to really prepare themselves for I guess you could call "sanctioned" racing or anywhere where they at least enforce a minimum weight limit in the spirit of the rules. The weight thing is big on the 12th scales I have come to find out. The car just has a little bit more umph at the end of a run.

Alright, rambling officially done... I don't want to sound like Charlie Brown's school teacher. :P

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Do you have any pricing for the aluminum chassis yet?

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Should be $75.00 with an included thinner lower pod. Will probably offer a "lightening kit" as well for another $15.00 or so that will include a new rear tweak brace and thinner servo mount as well.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

To back up CTs data

At our track (TQRC) approx 9s laps

a 1/12 17.5 car lost .1s per lap when 15-20g overweight

13.5 was not effected as much, mod nothing at all

TC's don't seem to be measurably affected by weight, so long as the added weight is carried low

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Are there any video or reviews of how the RR12 V2 perform on asphalt? Very interested in purchasing the RR12 V2 conversion.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

We have had 1 of our team drivers in San Antonio, Tx that races 12th scale on asphalt regularly. His words (verbatum) were "Car worked great so much faster in the corners I have to say it is the best car I have driven, it is so easy to drive at high speeds."

This driver runs on a semi temporary tennis court surface asphalt track, he is a long time 12th scale racer (talking about 20+ years), so I usually trust his judgement and feedback 100%.

chodaboy

Any idea when the latest batch will be shipped out?

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, Ill be placing and order soon. Is there a manual I can download? I dont see anything on your website. Just wanna have a closer look at the car.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Sorry, no manual at the time. This is why they come pre-assembled.

The remaining kits starts shipping on Monday next week. I apologize for all of you that are waiting, I promise that I am hustling to get them out as quick as I can. We are actually having a build party with some of my guys on Wednesday to expedite the process. Goal is to get out at least 10 next week.

chodaboy

Do you recommend sealing the chassis?

chodaboy

Has anyone else been waiting for a month for their car?