Tamiya mini cooper
wow, that is crazy about the inside of your gearbox. Agreed, has to be a bad bearing which made that shaft turn/wind up and tear up the plastic w/ it.
I hate doing it because I feel that everytime I take apart my chassis the screws aren't going to sit as tightly as the previous ...you know how if you keep removing screws from plastic and screwing back in eventually the seal is becomes loose. But with that said, I take my chassis apart to check and re-lube everything about once every other month (but I also get about 6 races in between and another 4 practice sessions in). I do replace my chassis every year though, ...at least I did w/ the M05 VI ...my V2 only has one race season on it so far. I'll probably change the chassis out sometime this coming season ...just because the plastic gets a bit weak. ...especially around the area where the steering screws go in. But chassis are cheap.
How often do you guys open the gearbox to lube your metal bearings?
I hate doing it because I feel that everytime I take apart my chassis the screws aren't going to sit as tightly as the previous ...you know how if you keep removing screws from plastic and screwing back in eventually the seal is becomes loose. But with that said, I take my chassis apart to check and re-lube everything about once every other month (but I also get about 6 races in between and another 4 practice sessions in). I do replace my chassis every year though, ...at least I did w/ the M05 VI ...my V2 only has one race season on it so far. I'll probably change the chassis out sometime this coming season ...just because the plastic gets a bit weak. ...especially around the area where the steering screws go in. But chassis are cheap.
I don't crank the screws on all that tight either. I have two more V2 chassis (just the black plastic pieces, not the entire car) in-house so it should last me a while.The ceramic bearings monkeyracing mentioned is a good idea for sure though. But I have too many regular metal bearings at the moment.. in brighter news, pizza for dinner.
Relubing bearings? what, you people do that? lol I haven't done it in a very long time (years) and haven't had an issue. Jim I am yet to experience that with the Ver 2, I hope it doesn't happen! I haven't done any checking to see how much side to side slop the gears have in the Ver 2 box yet. And really, I doubt I will, I just love dumping the mini on the track and it driving well 
With bearings, I have always run the cheapest crappiest bearings, always bought two sets so I have a full set of spares, and when I was racing TCS etc, I used a harmonic cleaner with some solution to remove the grease from the bearing and used a drop of Elf high speed bearing oil. Then replaced as necessary.
I remember the days of having a long line of bearings on your table after every race, making sure you had the smoothest drivetrain. It was the only way to extract more speed from a M03, F201 or TT01 at the TCS (well after magnet zapping and dyno about 40 motors too....) Oh how times have changed. Couldn't care less now lol. The motor tuners, comm lathes, comm drops.... battery equalizers.... battery zappers..... Now its a single BL motor, batteries that I got second hand 2 years ago, and relaxing and talking to friends in between rounds! The Lipo technology is amazing!
I LOVE RC these days!

With bearings, I have always run the cheapest crappiest bearings, always bought two sets so I have a full set of spares, and when I was racing TCS etc, I used a harmonic cleaner with some solution to remove the grease from the bearing and used a drop of Elf high speed bearing oil. Then replaced as necessary.
I remember the days of having a long line of bearings on your table after every race, making sure you had the smoothest drivetrain. It was the only way to extract more speed from a M03, F201 or TT01 at the TCS (well after magnet zapping and dyno about 40 motors too....) Oh how times have changed. Couldn't care less now lol. The motor tuners, comm lathes, comm drops.... battery equalizers.... battery zappers..... Now its a single BL motor, batteries that I got second hand 2 years ago, and relaxing and talking to friends in between rounds! The Lipo technology is amazing!
I LOVE RC these days!
Here's something a little weird I'd forgotten about. Last weekend, a friend who works at an RC shop was looking up info on the new version of the m05. It was a weird, as the webpage he was on mentioned carbon upper and lower decks, among many, many other features.
I wouldn't get too excited, however, (I'm looking at you, Sakadachi) as most of it was probably just space filler text.
I wouldn't get too excited, however, (I'm looking at you, Sakadachi) as most of it was probably just space filler text.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 237
From: Ontario, Canada
Just a note to keep in mind, the V2 chassis requires a spacer on the gear shaft. This spacer is included with the aluminum motor mount (54609), but not the chassis parts. This may be the cause of the lateral movement of the gears on some people's cars if they upgraded just the plastic chassis parts.
Note the spacer in the top of the (poorly) scanned instructions below:
https://fiveeight0sixsix.files.wordp...structions.jpg
Note the spacer in the top of the (poorly) scanned instructions below:
https://fiveeight0sixsix.files.wordp...structions.jpg
Here's something a little weird I'd forgotten about. Last weekend, a friend who works at an RC shop was looking up info on the new version of the m05. It was a weird, as the webpage he was on mentioned carbon upper and lower decks, among many, many other features.
I wouldn't get too excited, however, (I'm looking at you, Sakadachi) as most of it was probably just space filler text.
I wouldn't get too excited, however, (I'm looking at you, Sakadachi) as most of it was probably just space filler text.
thanks for looking out for me. I'll keep my sanity until the carbon fiber decks are true. Perhaps they are going to add carbon content to strengthen the plastic chassis?But if they are going to offer carbon fiber decks, then I will purchase one for certain.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 341
From: Edmonton
M03 Stock Mini Challenge:
I decided to take up Ivan’s M03 Stock Mini Challenge using an old car and spare parts from mine and Adam's parts collections. I was given an old, well used M03S to work with. It had:
-bearings
-M03 C-Hubs
-M05 Aluminum Steering Blocks
-CVD axels
-Aluminum Yeah Racing shocks (that were built wrong)
-half worn S-Grip fronts with CA edges and M-Grip rears
-used Poche 911 short wheel base body.
Everything else was stock.
Modifications:
-M05 plastic C-Hubs on the car to make the suspension work. I didn’t have M03 Steering Blocks so might as well use the aluminum parts.
-Rebuilt the shocks with 3 hole pistons, 35W red front, and 30 blue rear all 57mm. This was the shortest I could go with the misc spacers I had. Was going for 55mm overall length.
-Dropped the ride height as far as I could. Its around 5mm-ish.
-1205grams race ready
-I added 2 shims to the diff, MR Style.
-Added the WCICS Orca 2200kV and Hobbywing Justock ESC. Speed control got shoved in the tail section.
-Front toe is about 1 degree.
-4000mah round pack.
-Added a zip tie around the servo saver to tighten it up.
-Added heat shrink to the servo horn screws to make the links smooth.
-Replaced the worn ball cups at the steering blocks.
I decided to take up Ivan’s M03 Stock Mini Challenge using an old car and spare parts from mine and Adam's parts collections. I was given an old, well used M03S to work with. It had:
-bearings
-M03 C-Hubs
-M05 Aluminum Steering Blocks
-CVD axels
-Aluminum Yeah Racing shocks (that were built wrong)
-half worn S-Grip fronts with CA edges and M-Grip rears
-used Poche 911 short wheel base body.
Everything else was stock.
Modifications:
-M05 plastic C-Hubs on the car to make the suspension work. I didn’t have M03 Steering Blocks so might as well use the aluminum parts.
-Rebuilt the shocks with 3 hole pistons, 35W red front, and 30 blue rear all 57mm. This was the shortest I could go with the misc spacers I had. Was going for 55mm overall length.
-Dropped the ride height as far as I could. Its around 5mm-ish.
-1205grams race ready
-I added 2 shims to the diff, MR Style.
-Added the WCICS Orca 2200kV and Hobbywing Justock ESC. Speed control got shoved in the tail section.
-Front toe is about 1 degree.
-4000mah round pack.
-Added a zip tie around the servo saver to tighten it up.
-Added heat shrink to the servo horn screws to make the links smooth.
-Replaced the worn ball cups at the steering blocks.
Your no longer allowed to associate with Ivan.... He used zip ties to hold the rear suspension on his mod tc....



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