Anyone ?

Stay with the bushing in the diff I would say.

Is there a brace for the top deck to steering posts for the steering rack as an option?

The hole in the top deck directly above in between almost suggests there is this possibility. Yokomo has this:

http://banzaihobby.com/Yokomo-B7-201...b8abe53257cfa9

I know of Qatmix's carbon fiber straight post to post brace. Just wondering.

there is one that comes with the 2mm chassis - not sure if available on it's own or not.

I build my car with the Tamiya TRF 2mm Carbon Chassis and the brace where included.

Does anyone have problem that the rear toe aren't exactly the same? Yesterday, I put my car on setup station (integy 1/10 setup station).
I found rear toe has about 0.5 degree difference.
I know rear toe are not adjustable, does this mean I might have bent anything?

Check the axles are fine and there is no movement. The rear toe should be the same for both wheels.

Other things to check are

The ball connector at the top of the rear hub might me bent.
The rear hinge pin

However I would mostly say that it is going to be down to movement in the rear axles if they are not shimmed.

Has anyone tried this chassis on their car, especially for carpet racing? Our local track had pretty low grip carpet over the last 2 yrears, but recently more 1/12th scale racers have been running and the car starts to generate crazy levels of grip by mid race day. Traction roll is a major problem by round #3. I think the thinner/ heavier lower plate will lower the CG considerably and any reduction in grip caused by the stiffer chassis could be overcome with softer springs.

Any thoughts?

Erik

Hey Erik... just ask.. You are welcome to drive mine next time we meet. Drive a whole qualifier.

Hey, guys,
My friend at track found me a very very forgiving setup for my 419.
I love it so much.
I think it matches my current skills very well(I only started this hobby 1 month ago).
The car does feel a lil lazy when turning(my friend's car was a more twitchy , for the lack of bettery word), but that also means it gives your radio steering "more resolutions".
I am using a M11x, EPA was set to max(to the point you can go more left or right), dual rate was about 80%, exp is 0.
Right now, I can drive at 100% power and not hitting the board.
Very happy with my skill development so far.
Forgot to mention, motor is 24k 17.5

in my opinion, if something was bent, it would likely be the hinge pin. anything bent above the pins would be more likely to effect the camber if the pins are straight.

I have had differences in my toe settings before on a new hudy set-up station before. I believe that the toe blocks were inaccurate. this was several years ago(TRF 415/416 era) and since then, maybe Try Hard could back me up( but I think he has moved on to the "other" r/c car manufacturer), they have improved with the introduction of the newer "split blocks" and newer style toe blocks i.e. with italic lettering and the thicker design.

you wouldn't be using the older style blocks, would you? (just asking)

P.S. if you have a good crash you can still bend the ear of the rear toe block. this usually
is the case if you can move the arm forwards and backwards on the pin while everything is still attached to chassis. ( nothing to brag about but I have bent a fair share of bits )

Here's a video from a few weeks ago of a couple TRF 419s putting in practice laps and generally messing around with the a few fast guys at TQ Raceway. My 419 is pretty vanilla and doesn't have an aluminum chassis or a light weight body. The other 419 has an aluminum chassis and was run with standard and short shock tower configurations.

TRF419 Practice at TQ RC Racing

+ YouTube Video

sorry repeat of P.S.

@rtypec can I ask for your setup?

Yeap, I reported the same problem with my TRF418 since new. My car had one full degree of difference left to right. Even changing the split blocks to the old one piece style (tried a few), there was still a difference in rear toe, so I think the holes are drilled in the wrong place in the chassis. I swapped the split mounts around left to right of course to check and the problem was the same. Changing to a Samix chassis didn't solve the problem so either the hole locations were copied from the original and the problem was carried on, or there is some other really fiendshly difficult to pinpoint cause.

I have a Hudy setup station and none of my other cars have this problem (these include a TA05R in which I use the same old style single piece blocks I used to check the TRF418).

I corrected the problem by moving to Xray old style split blocks (single screw; I had to drill a hole in the chassis for the locating pin) and it takes an extra 1mm shim on one side to even out the toe. Tamiya has gone down in quality of their manufacturing in my opinion.