Build Complete: Tamiya RR-01
#31
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8,054
From: Virginia, Near DC, USA
I wish there weren't so many speedbumps in my apartment complex. That causes a lot of problems for filming running videos with touring cars.
Maybe I can use the local tennis court. It's flat and smooth. Hopefully they've taken down the nets for the winter now.
Maybe I can use the local tennis court. It's flat and smooth. Hopefully they've taken down the nets for the winter now.
#34
Sorry for bringing up an old thread, but how did you mount the whole front motor/transmission/diff/bulkhead shebang on the rear? And the rear on the front? Is it symmetrical/identical mounting? Because you are tempting me in ways I didn't know possible....
Is it possible to fit a shorty lipo as well?
Is it possible to fit a shorty lipo as well?
#35
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8,054
From: Virginia, Near DC, USA
Sure, you can fit a shorty LiPo pack. The battery compartment is sized for a full-size LiPo pack, so you'd just stuff the remaining space with foam to keep a shorty pack from rattling around.
Mounting the front gearbox in the rear was slightly more complicated than I expected, but not a Herculean effort. The bottom part of each gearbox is keyed to fit only in the front or the rear, and the top part of each gearbox is keyed to fit only its corresponding bottom part, but some careful cutting can make the top half of the front gearbox fit the bottom half of the rear gearbox, and vice-versa. Then you have to drill new holes for screws to go completely through the mounting tabs that hold the top and bottom parts together, so you can secure them with screws and nuts. The piece that attaches the front gearbox to the top of the main chassis also has some screw holes that don't quite line up with the top part of the rear gearbox, and the piece that attaches the rear gearbox to the top of the main chassis has some screw holes that don't quite line up with the top part of the front gearbox, but if you cut the screw holes so they become slots instead, you can still pass screws through to anchor everything together properly.
I wish Tamiya had just made the front and rear gearboxes completely interchangeable, but the modifications needed to swap the front and rear gearboxes are doable in a single afternoon.
Mounting the front gearbox in the rear was slightly more complicated than I expected, but not a Herculean effort. The bottom part of each gearbox is keyed to fit only in the front or the rear, and the top part of each gearbox is keyed to fit only its corresponding bottom part, but some careful cutting can make the top half of the front gearbox fit the bottom half of the rear gearbox, and vice-versa. Then you have to drill new holes for screws to go completely through the mounting tabs that hold the top and bottom parts together, so you can secure them with screws and nuts. The piece that attaches the front gearbox to the top of the main chassis also has some screw holes that don't quite line up with the top part of the rear gearbox, and the piece that attaches the rear gearbox to the top of the main chassis has some screw holes that don't quite line up with the top part of the front gearbox, but if you cut the screw holes so they become slots instead, you can still pass screws through to anchor everything together properly.
I wish Tamiya had just made the front and rear gearboxes completely interchangeable, but the modifications needed to swap the front and rear gearboxes are doable in a single afternoon.
#43
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8,054
From: Virginia, Near DC, USA
Those are Tamiya CF shock towers. I think they're 3mm. I ended up switching to the carbon-reinforced-plastic shock towers instead. They don't twist as much as the CF shock towers did, because they're thicker and have carbon fibers running in all directions through the plastic.



23Likes
