Just released today, Snow's Designs Ridgeback body for the ET48.
Here's the Live RC release; http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...body_for_ET48/ I beat the crap out of this body and it held up great. Gary Snow includes an instruction sheet to get the most out of your body.

Shock droop

What is it?
How is it adjusted?
What is the effect on handling?

The kit has a specific measurement - and I'm not sure what I'm measuring.

It is how far the suspension can go fully uncompressed.

On Tekno vehicles there are droop screws on the inside of the arm to adjust this.
Typically, more droop allows more weight transfer to happen and more suspension travel when landing a jump.

The measurements you'll see listed on most Tekno setup sheets is a measure from shock eye to shock eye, or the length of the shock from the middle of the mount on both ends, while the vehicle is on the stand and the arms are dropped (drooping) as far as they can from the car.

Thank you.

I have just started putting my ET 48.3 together, and everything has been going together great. This is a very well built system. However, when I arrived at the rear camber links, I had a huge problem with getting the rod ends to screw onto the turnbuckles. I have tried for almost 2 hours, and have only been successful on getting one to screw on. Has anyone else had this issue? If so, any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

No advantage. It would have the effect of going down about 1 tooth on your pinion.

Chadman101, the camber links are designed to fit tight in an effort to prevent them from pulling out on a hard crash. The easiest way is to use a body reamer and open up the hole of the rod end a little.

The is another way and we will have a video explaining the process but in the mean time I will try to explain how we thread the rods at Tekno.

It's an easy process and it involves an electric drill with a keyless chuck. Insert the camber rod into the chuck and tighten it enough that it won't spin but not so much that it mars the threads. Hold the rod end with plyers (if you don't want to mar the rod end use our new pivot ball and shock multi tool tkr1115 or our combo 5.5 and 7mm wrench tkr1119 also works well) and use the drill to thread the camber link into the rod end. Drill it all the way in and out a couple times then completely unthread the rod end set it aside. Flip the camber rod in the keyless chuck and repeat the process for the other rod end. Thread it in an out twice then leave the camber rod threaded into the rod end. I like to leave it threaded in so the rod end just covers the threads on the camber link. Then take the other rod end that has threads already cut into it and screw it onto the camber rod with normal tools so the rod end goes to about the same position as the one already installed. Install the camber link on the vehicle then adjust proper camber when you are ready to go out for your first run.

Might sound a little complicated but it's actually easy and it will be much easier to adjust camber with normal tools.

Thank you so much for the pointers. I will give it a go when I get home tonight!

46t = more torque. 44t = more speed. 46t should accelerate faster. 44t will have more top end speed.

Nope, not with brushless motors and lipos. Would be true for IC motors, but with brushless motors there's no difference in acceleration at different gearing - only top end speed.

The upside of a lower gear ratio (larger spur gear) you may wonder? Less heat!

46t = less heat. 44t = more speed.

Yeah, that's a very common misconception with electric. Electric motors' torque is only limited by how much current you can send it. So we have so much torque that you can't notice a difference by gearing. But as you gear up and the motor has to pull more current to generate that torque it builds heat.

So yeah, what Xirton said, except instead of "more speed" I would say "more power". Throttle will be more sensitive and higher top speed. So lower gearing in general makes the car a lot easier to drive.

Getting back to your original question, I wouldn't veer away from the stock 44t. You can accomplish virtually the same thing by changing your pinion size. The only time you'd really need the 46t is if you are running a high kv motor and a 15t pinion and 44t spur isn't geared quite low enough.

So, I am almost finished with my current build. I still need a servo and batteries to get this thing running. However, my question is with this quote. As I am new to RC since childhood, I am concerned I may have made a mistake with my current choices. I have a Tekin 2250 and ESC RX8. I have a 15t pinion ready to go on this, as well as the stock 44t spur. Is this going to create too much heat? Should I change my spur down to 14t? Or should I wait and see what happens when I drive it? Any advice on this will be appreciated.

I don't believe you can get a 14t pinion on without changing to the 46t spur or milling the motor mount out some. You can try running it and keep an eye on the temp. As long as it stays under 180 F you are fine. My advice would be to sell the 2250 and get a 1900 though. The 1900 is more power than I can use personally. The 2250 is too much.

This combination will work just fine. Unless you're running long, back to back runs on 100 degree days, your heat will be just fine. Don't sell the 2250 (which is designed for truggy) for a 1900 (which is a buggy motor with a smaller can and it will heat up). Turn your current limiter way down until you feel like you need more power then just adjust it up one increment at a time. I run a 2000 KV with 44/16 and absolutely no heat problems. Just run what you have.

I think I'm at 15/44 with my 2000kv. No heat issues even in the hot summer months. I turn my current limiter down quite a bit though.