219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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08-31-2015, 12:28 PM
#2086
Hello peeps,I would like to get opinions on which rims fit the .3 best with little rubbing issues on front steering...My cyclone SCTE rims rub steering very badly full right and left..I can limit my right and left travel,but looks like I will loose quite a bit of steering...Any thoughts?
Thanks
Thanks
08-31-2015, 12:41 PM
#2087
Ok so I'm at the shock build page and stuck. It states that "vented" is preferred stock build and the arrow points to the middle of the cap, do I drill all the way through the middle of the cap to essentially where the mounting screw will be?. Is this correct, or do I drill the hole coming out at a 45 degree angle with a 1 mm drill bit? Sorry, I haven't built many shocks.
08-31-2015, 01:55 PM
#2088
Tech Initiate
Hello peeps,I would like to get opinions on which rims fit the .3 best with little rubbing issues on front steering...My cyclone SCTE rims rub steering very badly full right and left..I can limit my right and left travel,but looks like I will loose quite a bit of steering...Any thoughts?
Thanks
Thanks
09-01-2015, 01:32 AM
#2089
Tekno or SC5m
I've had the 410.3 for about 8 batteries. As a newb, it was just a little too powerful. Anyone here also drive a Sc5m and compare the two? don't want to get into the 2wd vs 4wd debate but I can say the Tekno was an absolute beast. Realized my main nose down problem is I just was driving too slow mostly. Thanks all for your help here. If anyone wants to trade a like mind sc5m I've got a 410.3 with Tekin rx8 pro 4 setup
09-01-2015, 11:36 AM
#2090
Tech Master
09-01-2015, 11:44 AM
#2092
09-01-2015, 11:45 AM
#2093
Tech Master
09-02-2015, 11:09 AM
#2097
There aren't too many situations where the outside travels more than the inside wheel, so consider the outside wheel always travels less than the inside. The rear holes in the Ackerman plate provide more Ackerman. Front holes provide less.
All that said, more Ackerman (less outside travel) is more aggressive into a corner and produces more front traction (less slip angle). On power, however, there is less overall steering and the car might push (understeer).
Less Ackerman (more outside wheel travel) is smoother into a corner as the front wheels slip. On power, there is more overall steering and the car might oversteer out of corners.
If you want more steering everywhere, try bump-out in the front. If you want less steering everywhere, try bump-in. Bump-out is twitchy and harder to drive. Bump-in is smooth and easier to drive.
09-02-2015, 04:43 PM
#2098
I'm one of those guys who are updating a 410.1 to a 410.3 with shock towers, arms, and hubs (Thanks RC-Waffle). I did replace the diffs as well but that was more of a maintenance issue. I have to much invested in the 410.1 aluminum hinge pin holders to update so now that I'm about to change the rear arms and outer hubs i'm lost on what .1 pills I need to use to get the .3 kit setup. I have the STD rear outer aluminum pin holder btw. I currently have a ton of rear toe and anti-squat. Drives great into corners and I hope the .3 setup performs as well. I know I'll lose 1deg. With the .3 rear hubs.