Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#2086
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Hello peeps,I would like to get opinions on which rims fit the .3 best with little rubbing issues on front steering...My cyclone SCTE rims rub steering very badly full right and left..I can limit my right and left travel,but looks like I will loose quite a bit of steering...Any thoughts?
Thanks
Thanks
#2087
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
Ok so I'm at the shock build page and stuck. It states that "vented" is preferred stock build and the arrow points to the middle of the cap, do I drill all the way through the middle of the cap to essentially where the mounting screw will be?. Is this correct, or do I drill the hole coming out at a 45 degree angle with a 1 mm drill bit? Sorry, I haven't built many shocks.
#2088
Tech Initiate
Hello peeps,I would like to get opinions on which rims fit the .3 best with little rubbing issues on front steering...My cyclone SCTE rims rub steering very badly full right and left..I can limit my right and left travel,but looks like I will loose quite a bit of steering...Any thoughts?
Thanks
Thanks
#2089
Tekno or SC5m
I've had the 410.3 for about 8 batteries. As a newb, it was just a little too powerful. Anyone here also drive a Sc5m and compare the two? don't want to get into the 2wd vs 4wd debate but I can say the Tekno was an absolute beast. Realized my main nose down problem is I just was driving too slow mostly. Thanks all for your help here. If anyone wants to trade a like mind sc5m I've got a 410.3 with Tekin rx8 pro 4 setup
#2090
Tech Master
#2092
#2093
Tech Master
#2097
There aren't too many situations where the outside travels more than the inside wheel, so consider the outside wheel always travels less than the inside. The rear holes in the Ackerman plate provide more Ackerman. Front holes provide less.
All that said, more Ackerman (less outside travel) is more aggressive into a corner and produces more front traction (less slip angle). On power, however, there is less overall steering and the car might push (understeer).
Less Ackerman (more outside wheel travel) is smoother into a corner as the front wheels slip. On power, there is more overall steering and the car might oversteer out of corners.
If you want more steering everywhere, try bump-out in the front. If you want less steering everywhere, try bump-in. Bump-out is twitchy and harder to drive. Bump-in is smooth and easier to drive.
#2098
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
I'm one of those guys who are updating a 410.1 to a 410.3 with shock towers, arms, and hubs (Thanks RC-Waffle). I did replace the diffs as well but that was more of a maintenance issue. I have to much invested in the 410.1 aluminum hinge pin holders to update so now that I'm about to change the rear arms and outer hubs i'm lost on what .1 pills I need to use to get the .3 kit setup. I have the STD rear outer aluminum pin holder btw. I currently have a ton of rear toe and anti-squat. Drives great into corners and I hope the .3 setup performs as well. I know I'll lose 1deg. With the .3 rear hubs.