Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

With the axle in the up position, you have more aggressive steering, more turn in. Ideal on smooth tracks. Axle down slows down initial steering. Good on bumpy tracks. Middle axle is standard and should be baseline. Axle height should be one of those adjustments you make when you need that last little bit.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Associa...ng-Set-SCH1087

RCBuddha

iTrader: (40)

http://www.redrc.net/2015/08/t-works...gpin-bushings/



T-Works have introduced brass kingpin bushing sets for Team Associated’s fifth generation 1/10th off-road vehicles such as the B5 and T5. The parts help to alter the roll centre settings and also add unsprung weight which can be beneficial at certain track conditions. Available are a 4-piece standard, a 4-piece offset and an 8-piece “complete” set for the B5, T5 and SC5.





http://www.redrc.net/2015/08/rdrp-b5...bellcrank-set/



Made to replace the standard plastic steering bellcranks of Team Associated’s B5 series vehicles is the RDRP B5RM/MM aluminium bellcrank set. The parts do away with the kit’s plastic steering bellcranks in favour of stronger levers for added rigidity and better looks. The CNC-machined 7075-T6 aluminium construction considerably strengthens the steering assembly for less slop, a more precise steering reaction and less flex, resulting in a rock solid steering feeling and more durability in the event of a crash. The RDRP B5RM/MM bellcrank aluminium set is made for the use with fifth generation kits and it comes blue anodised and laser-etched to match the remainder of RDRP’s Team Associated option parts.

triplesix

Thomas,

do you have the updated version of the gearbox? They released an improved version in july, if I remember correctly... I installed this one and I think in terms of resistance it's pretty much the same as the original AE 4 gear gearbox.
Another question:
Did you drill the two additional (optional) holes in the chassis to mount the gearbox with six screws instead of four?

Thomas PA

Yes, I do have the newest version, and I did drill the 2 extra holes. I suppose its possible that my 2 extra holes are a little off, and that's what's causing the resistance. I'm not experiencing a significant difference, but it does seem a little tight. Which is probably why nothing has stripped

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Word up to the noobs: Think long and hard about getting an aluminum steering rack. That's one of the best ways to start going through servos you will ever find. The stock plastic rack provides some damping from impacts and will likely break before your servo will, especially if you have a reasonably tough servo. When I see people stripping gears in their servo, they almost always have an aluminum rack.

The stock b5 steering is already one of the tightest and nicest steering racks you will find on a car, and it breaks away during a hard impact.

My $0.02,

Wayne

Fasttrak

I would definitely agree this is not one of the vehicles that benefits from an aluminum steering rack. In a bad enough hit to ruin your servo you are most likely going to also ruin that nifty aluminum rack and add to the cost of repairs, it adds nothing but bling. There is some slop in my front suspension but it all seems to come from the loose castor blocks on my car, I need some 1-2mm x 3mm nylon shims to tighten it up. The steering rack is one of the better ones I have seen and having the plastic adds some safety in hard hits.

After having made it through this entire thread, that took some time, I would like to get a waterfall fan mount and it seems the printed ones are not worth the effort as they fail pretty quickly. Is there any mfg that actually makes a molded waterfall fan mount?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

While this statement is true, more so for the ST and SCT, I have not broken a gear in the last 3+ years, since I went to all metal gear servos. I bought my car used wit the alum rack in it. Otherwise I would not have bought it. My daughter has the plastic one and bangs pipes like a monster and never broke the plastic rack. But on the ST I see the plastic racks getting shattered. Then they put on the alum rack and break the horns, then they put on the alum horns and now I see spindles break. No servos yet, but pretty much everything else in the steering. If you run a servo with a sacrificial gear, like airtronics. you will break it. One of the reasons, I ditched Airtronics servos. Protek, Xpert, and Hitec are taking some serious abuse in my cars.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

The printed waterfalls do not "all" fail quickly. Some are beefier than others.

This one is pretty stout. The fans seem to fail more than the waterfall
http://www.shapeways.com/product/SJN...ionId=55945004

dr_gonzo

iTrader: (66)

I just picked up a B5M and reading up on the thread here. I was considering picking up an aluminum rack and bell cranks but after reading the last few posts I am thinking otherwise. Is it better to keep both the cranks and rack plastic?

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Spencer Rivkin stead on his FB page when I asked him about the plastic steering and why he and Cav use them on buggy. He saidits more forgiving. Less twitchy I would believe. High bite track maybe use plastic and metal on med to low bite.

190mph

iTrader: (12)

New Parts I noticed on the website for keeping the dogbone in for full droop and FT Alum +4 arm mounts:

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...CVA_Axle_Shims

Fasttrak

Have my buggy tore down, doing a total cleanup, checking settings and original build and adding a few upgrades along the way. One item I picked up, not usre it's usefulness but grabbed anyway since I was tearing down to transmission, the Schelle offset motor mount. Cleaned out transmission, checked gears and bearings and added this item, no instructions and it seemed straight forward but the transmission bearing below output shaft is making a strange rattling noise and wondering if the shim is required in my B5M Lite as in the old rear motor setup? Thanks for help.

EDIT: Had I looked at it a bit longer it would of been clear. The aluminum shim sits outside the diff casing to shift the contact with the slipper hub. Meh, maybe some one else questions this one..

BrandonBreh

iTrader: (2)

I use a spektrum s6040 with an aluminum rack in my b5m, sc10, and t4. The only time i stripped a servo is when i put an aluminum horn on it with the rack. I like the feel of aluminum racks. Faster response because there is less flex.

If you are racing and practicing only (trying your best not to go full throttle head on into a wall), you will be fine. Like i said, just use a plastic servo horn and that will be your weak point.

190mph

iTrader: (12)

Bling to hold down your battery:

http://revolution-rc.com/our-product...b-nut-set.html

BIGSKI15

iTrader: (18)

I was surprised to see cav's car set up the way it was for nationals. It seems nobody (pros) on high bite uses anything but 4mm trail but cav went to the 2mm trail.

Razathorn,

any thoughts or explanation on why you think he set up his car the way he did on a track with that much traction? Green spring in the rear threw me off too.