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Old 08-07-2015 | 10:13 PM
  #43006  
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Originally Posted by Ted Su(TW)
Sometimes it can be quite busy if you race in two classes (for me, 1/10 touring and 1/12 pan car).

Since last race, I started prepping/saucing 6 pairs of rear tyres (1 pair for each run) at home before I go to the race. I think the sauced tyres are more consistent and last the entire race. But I'm very new to 1/12 pan car racing, so I'm not sure what's everybody doing, and thus my question.


Do you "massage/rub" the sauce into the foam??


Also, maybe because you run on carpet in N. America with super thin tyres. Sauce can penetrate close to the rim easily. But then I imagine the additive machine can apply the sauce more evenly than brush??
I understand, I have run more than two classes before so I know that time can be short. What your doing is simple, no worries about ride height changes or gearing changes, just bolt on another set of tires and recharge. If that works better for you thats great, for me I prefer to just run one set (until they are too low) and regear/reset as needed. In certain low grip conditions I have read of racers saucing and then storing in baggies to allow the sauce to soak deep into the foam. Never tried that and never massaged or kneeded the sauce into the foam, just cleaned and reapplied with the brush. When running asphalt before I had good results saucing then appling some suntan lotion over that, soak time varied on the grip and tires.
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Old 08-07-2015 | 10:27 PM
  #43007  
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Cleaning foam tyres after each run is new to me too.


Thanks for sharing. Have a nice weekend.



Originally Posted by chris moore
I understand, I have run more than two classes before so I know that time can be short. What your doing is simple, no worries about ride height changes or gearing changes, just bolt on another set of tires and recharge. If that works better for you thats great, for me I prefer to just run one set (until they are too low) and regear/reset as needed. In certain low grip conditions I have read of racers saucing and then storing in baggies to allow the sauce to soak deep into the foam. Never tried that and never massaged or kneeded the sauce into the foam, just cleaned and reapplied with the brush. When running asphalt before I had good results saucing then appling some suntan lotion over that, soak time varied on the grip and tires.
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Old 08-07-2015 | 10:32 PM
  #43008  
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Originally Posted by Hugh Jazz
Anyone here race 12th stock in Japan?
Looking at coming over for the AOC race at Yatabe in November.

Are they still running 21.5 blinky 2s?
And what is a good motor for the class?
From experience they have different motor rules over there.
Team powers 21.5 Plutonium v2 with a 13mm rotor.
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Old 08-08-2015 | 01:04 AM
  #43009  
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Originally Posted by patorz31
Team powers 21.5 Plutonium v2 with a 13mm rotor.
Thanks
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Old 08-08-2015 | 05:14 AM
  #43010  
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Originally Posted by patorz31
Team powers 21.5 Plutonium v2 with a 13mm rotor.
Is the Team powers Actinium any good or does it have to be the V2
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Old 08-08-2015 | 06:31 AM
  #43011  
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Originally Posted by Hugh Jazz
Is the Team powers Actinium any good or does it have to be the V2
The Actinium is very good but built to ROAR rules. The Plutonium v2 is an outlaw motor and should be faster anywhere that allows it.
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Old 08-08-2015 | 06:33 AM
  #43012  
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Team Powers V2 13 mm rotor.
Trion M4 13.0 mm rotor.
G-Style 14.0 mm rotor.

Trion 7.4v 2s 1s sized lipo or G-Style are good.

Team Bomber Silver compound tires front and rear

AMR or Team Bomber Dera body shell

X-Shock damper 2k oil with a Morotech red spring.

All ROAR motors are allowed but wont hang with the rest of the field. Trust me. I've tried.

The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.

Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 08-08-2015 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 08-08-2015 | 03:29 PM
  #43013  
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
Team Powers V2 13 mm rotor.
Trion M4 13.0 mm rotor.
G-Style 14.0 mm rotor.

Trion 7.4v 2s 1s sized lipo or G-Style are good.

Team Bomber Silver compound tires front and rear

AMR or Team Bomber Dera body shell

X-Shock damper 2000k oil with a Morotech red spring.

All ROAR motors are allowed but wont hang with the rest of the field. Trust me. I've tried.

The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.

Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.

Thanks for that.

Last time I went I got smoked in 17.5 TC. I figured the motor rules were different. Don't want a repeat of that this time.
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Old 08-08-2015 | 07:36 PM
  #43014  
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Originally Posted by Hugh Jazz
Thanks for that.

Last time I went I got smoked in 17.5 TC. I figured the motor rules were different. Don't want a repeat of that this time.
Hahaahahah I know how you feel. For the first year or so I was running ROAR approved 21.5 motors in my 1/12th. I figured the motor rules would be relatively the same. WRONG!

If you do come over I'll do my best to help you out.
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Old 08-09-2015 | 05:09 AM
  #43015  
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What rotor are you guys using for 1/12 17.5 in a short stack D4?
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Old 08-09-2015 | 10:43 PM
  #43016  
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
All ROAR motors are allowed but wont hang with the rest of the field. Trust me. I've tried.

The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.

Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.
How will the R1 Ultra Premium motors compete there?

Planning on running 1/12 mod and 17.5 TC. Would like to run 1/12 stock, but PIA to convert to 2S + 21.5. Especially if an R1 isn't competitive.
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Old 08-10-2015 | 01:11 AM
  #43017  
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Originally Posted by xevias
How will the R1 Ultra Premium motors compete there?

Planning on running 1/12 mod and 17.5 TC. Would like to run 1/12 stock, but PIA to convert to 2S + 21.5. Especially if an R1 isn't competitive.
Modified is a great class and lots of competition. 17.5 TC is going to be crazy difficult, hence why I am running 13.5 boosted. There's no real motor battery war in that class. Heck, I'm running a G-Force 13.5 motor . It works like a treat and you don't need the best of the best.

21.5 conversion is easy. Pick up a Yokomo BL-SP3 (cheap), 21.5 motor and three lipos. Boom you're done.

I wouldn't say it's not competitive, but the R1 Wurks Ultra Premium is built under ROAR rules. Which means it's not an outlaw motor, and in Japan outlaw motors are allowed and the way to go. When I mean outlaw I mean outlaw. Maybe R1 Wurks might come out with something for the Japanese market. Who knows?
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Old 08-10-2015 | 02:52 AM
  #43018  
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
Modified is a great class and lots of competition. 17.5 TC is going to be crazy difficult, hence why I am running 13.5 boosted. There's no real motor battery war in that class. Heck, I'm running a G-Force 13.5 motor . It works like a treat and you don't need the best of the best.

21.5 conversion is easy. Pick up a Yokomo BL-SP3 (cheap), 21.5 motor and three lipos. Boom you're done.

I wouldn't say it's not competitive, but the R1 Wurks Ultra Premium is built under ROAR rules. Which means it's not an outlaw motor, and in Japan outlaw motors are allowed and the way to go. When I mean outlaw I mean outlaw. Maybe R1 Wurks might come out with something for the Japanese market. Who knows?
So are they allowing outlaw motors in boosted or blinky?
Would have thought that allowing Outlaw motors would just accelerate (no pun intended) the motor/battery wars.
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Old 08-10-2015 | 04:23 AM
  #43019  
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I think these loosely regulated motor rules are for only 21.5 Blinky 2s 1/12th. Other classss will probably run non-outlaw motors.
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Old 08-10-2015 | 04:41 AM
  #43020  
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
So are they allowing outlaw motors in boosted or blinky?
Would have thought that allowing Outlaw motors would just accelerate (no pun intended) the motor/battery wars.
Allowing any motor and rotor of specified turn virtually eliminates cheating.

Motor war is still there with blinky and outlaw motors but no where near as bad as with roar approved motors.
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