1/12 forum
Sometimes it can be quite busy if you race in two classes (for me, 1/10 touring and 1/12 pan car).
Since last race, I started prepping/saucing 6 pairs of rear tyres (1 pair for each run) at home before I go to the race. I think the sauced tyres are more consistent and last the entire race. But I'm very new to 1/12 pan car racing, so I'm not sure what's everybody doing, and thus my question.
Do you "massage/rub" the sauce into the foam??
Also, maybe because you run on carpet in N. America with super thin tyres. Sauce can penetrate close to the rim easily. But then I imagine the additive machine can apply the sauce more evenly than brush??
Since last race, I started prepping/saucing 6 pairs of rear tyres (1 pair for each run) at home before I go to the race. I think the sauced tyres are more consistent and last the entire race. But I'm very new to 1/12 pan car racing, so I'm not sure what's everybody doing, and thus my question.
Do you "massage/rub" the sauce into the foam??
Also, maybe because you run on carpet in N. America with super thin tyres. Sauce can penetrate close to the rim easily. But then I imagine the additive machine can apply the sauce more evenly than brush??
Tech Regular
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 265
From: Toronto
Cleaning foam tyres after each run is new to me too.
Thanks for sharing. Have a nice weekend.
Thanks for sharing. Have a nice weekend.
I understand, I have run more than two classes before so I know that time can be short. What your doing is simple, no worries about ride height changes or gearing changes, just bolt on another set of tires and recharge. If that works better for you thats great, for me I prefer to just run one set (until they are too low) and regear/reset as needed. In certain low grip conditions I have read of racers saucing and then storing in baggies to allow the sauce to soak deep into the foam. Never tried that and never massaged or kneeded the sauce into the foam, just cleaned and reapplied with the brush. When running asphalt before I had good results saucing then appling some suntan lotion over that, soak time varied on the grip and tires.
Team powers 21.5 Plutonium v2 with a 13mm rotor.
Team Powers V2 13 mm rotor.
Trion M4 13.0 mm rotor.
G-Style 14.0 mm rotor.
Trion 7.4v 2s 1s sized lipo or G-Style are good.
Team Bomber Silver compound tires front and rear
AMR or Team Bomber Dera body shell
X-Shock damper 2k oil with a Morotech red spring.
All ROAR motors are allowed but wont hang with the rest of the field. Trust me. I've tried.
The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.
Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.
Trion M4 13.0 mm rotor.
G-Style 14.0 mm rotor.
Trion 7.4v 2s 1s sized lipo or G-Style are good.
Team Bomber Silver compound tires front and rear
AMR or Team Bomber Dera body shell
X-Shock damper 2k oil with a Morotech red spring.
All ROAR motors are allowed but wont hang with the rest of the field. Trust me. I've tried.
The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.
Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.
Last edited by EDWARD2003; 08-08-2015 at 06:53 PM.
Team Powers V2 13 mm rotor.
Trion M4 13.0 mm rotor.
G-Style 14.0 mm rotor.
Trion 7.4v 2s 1s sized lipo or G-Style are good.
Team Bomber Silver compound tires front and rear
AMR or Team Bomber Dera body shell
X-Shock damper 2000k oil with a Morotech red spring.
All ROAR motors are allowed but wont hang with the rest of the field. Trust me. I've tried.
The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.
Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.
Trion M4 13.0 mm rotor.
G-Style 14.0 mm rotor.
Trion 7.4v 2s 1s sized lipo or G-Style are good.
Team Bomber Silver compound tires front and rear
AMR or Team Bomber Dera body shell
X-Shock damper 2000k oil with a Morotech red spring.
All ROAR motors are allowed but wont hang with the rest of the field. Trust me. I've tried.
The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.
Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.
Thanks for that.
Last time I went I got smoked in 17.5 TC. I figured the motor rules were different. Don't want a repeat of that this time.
If you do come over I'll do my best to help you out.
All ROAR motors are allowed but wont hang with the rest of the field. Trust me. I've tried.
The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.
Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.
The motors I've listed above are outlaw motors. The motor regulations are very loose for this class.
Check http://www.jmrca.jp/motor/2013/pic/motor2013.htm for the list of motors.
Planning on running 1/12 mod and 17.5 TC. Would like to run 1/12 stock, but PIA to convert to 2S + 21.5. Especially if an R1 isn't competitive.
. It works like a treat and you don't need the best of the best. 21.5 conversion is easy. Pick up a Yokomo BL-SP3 (cheap), 21.5 motor and three lipos. Boom you're done.
I wouldn't say it's not competitive, but the R1 Wurks Ultra Premium is built under ROAR rules. Which means it's not an outlaw motor, and in Japan outlaw motors are allowed and the way to go. When I mean outlaw I mean outlaw. Maybe R1 Wurks might come out with something for the Japanese market. Who knows?
Modified is a great class and lots of competition. 17.5 TC is going to be crazy difficult, hence why I am running 13.5 boosted. There's no real motor battery war in that class. Heck, I'm running a G-Force 13.5 motor
. It works like a treat and you don't need the best of the best.
21.5 conversion is easy. Pick up a Yokomo BL-SP3 (cheap), 21.5 motor and three lipos. Boom you're done.
I wouldn't say it's not competitive, but the R1 Wurks Ultra Premium is built under ROAR rules. Which means it's not an outlaw motor, and in Japan outlaw motors are allowed and the way to go. When I mean outlaw I mean outlaw. Maybe R1 Wurks might come out with something for the Japanese market. Who knows?
. It works like a treat and you don't need the best of the best. 21.5 conversion is easy. Pick up a Yokomo BL-SP3 (cheap), 21.5 motor and three lipos. Boom you're done.
I wouldn't say it's not competitive, but the R1 Wurks Ultra Premium is built under ROAR rules. Which means it's not an outlaw motor, and in Japan outlaw motors are allowed and the way to go. When I mean outlaw I mean outlaw. Maybe R1 Wurks might come out with something for the Japanese market. Who knows?
Would have thought that allowing Outlaw motors would just accelerate (no pun intended) the motor/battery wars.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 394
From: Melbourne
Motor war is still there with blinky and outlaw motors but no where near as bad as with roar approved motors.



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