Tekno ET48 Thread
#4369
Here is a quick update: Savöx replaced my servo no questions asked... awesome customer service 
I decided to try out the Tekno aluminum servo horn this time to try and keep the servo from getting thrashed this time around... only time will tell if it works or not...
Old:

New:

Also, I thought this was pretty crazy too... the force started to twist the old aluminum servo horn...

I decided to try out the Tekno aluminum servo horn this time to try and keep the servo from getting thrashed this time around... only time will tell if it works or not...
Old:

New:

Also, I thought this was pretty crazy too... the force started to twist the old aluminum servo horn...

#4371
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
From: Brighton,UK
Here is a quick update: Savöx replaced my servo no questions asked... awesome customer service 
I decided to try out the Tekno aluminum servo horn this time to try and keep the servo from getting thrashed this time around... only time will tell if it works or not...
Old:

New:

Also, I thought this was pretty crazy too... the force started to twist the old aluminum servo horn...


I decided to try out the Tekno aluminum servo horn this time to try and keep the servo from getting thrashed this time around... only time will tell if it works or not...
Old:

New:

Also, I thought this was pretty crazy too... the force started to twist the old aluminum servo horn...


I would check the end points on your radio as well, just to be sure.
#4372
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 134
I had two driveshaft pins come out on my ET48 yesterday while racing,I looked on the Tekno website and didn't find anything specific to this issue,I would like to know if its a warranty issue or a defect issue and why its happening Thank You Dave
#4373
I've had this happen several times. I put thread lock on them & it may have a helped(I haven't run it in a while). Other stated that Mugen C0270 will work as replacements.
#4374
I took my et out for the first time today. Didn't turn out like i would have liked. First I had to reverse the throttle and steering on the tx which is no biggie. Then I drove it around and noticed that it wasn't nearly as quick as I thought it would be. Now I usualy run 5s but I started with 4s for the first run. But it seemed like reverse has more punch than fwd. so I'm thinking maybe the mmm2 esc needs some adjustment. Maye some things got messed up when I unplugged it and rewired it in this truck from my other truck. Any ideas there? Then I noticed a line of diff fluid under the cd. Now I asked this awhile back but when I tighten the spur down tight it makes it tough to turn and notchy so someone here said to back the screws of a little which I did and it felt a little better but now I'm leaking fluid. What can I do about this? I am just disassembling now to re build it and make sure I didn't miss something but so far it looks good. So the two thugs I need help with is the power issue (I am running mamba monster 2/2200kv with 16t pinion. It seems like the truck was doing maybe 20 mph. I had this same setup in my other truck and it hauled ass. And I also need advice on the center diff leaking and not being smooth turning.
#4375
Tech Initiate
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 26
From: Brighton,UK
Had the exact same issue with mine, both rear pins came out so far they damaged the suspension arms, it is a known issue, email Tekno, they will sort it for you.
#4377
I took my et out for the first time today. Didn't turn out like i would have liked. First I had to reverse the throttle and steering on the tx which is no biggie. Then I drove it around and noticed that it wasn't nearly as quick as I thought it would be. Now I usualy run 5s but I started with 4s for the first run. But it seemed like reverse has more punch than fwd. so I'm thinking maybe the mmm2 esc needs some adjustment. Maye some things got messed up when I unplugged it and rewired it in this truck from my other truck. Any ideas there? Then I noticed a line of diff fluid under the cd. Now I asked this awhile back but when I tighten the spur down tight it makes it tough to turn and notchy so someone here said to back the screws of a little which I did and it felt a little better but now I'm leaking fluid. What can I do about this? I am just disassembling now to re build it and make sure I didn't miss something but so far it looks good. So the two thugs I need help with is the power issue (I am running mamba monster 2/2200kv with 16t pinion. It seems like the truck was doing maybe 20 mph. I had this same setup in my other truck and it hauled ass. And I also need advice on the center diff leaking and not being smooth turning.
Yup, same thing happened to me, & prematurely wearing out the dif cups also. I'm putting all new parts in it.
#4378
Would it help maybe to use 2 diff Gaskets so it gives me a little more height clearance to tighten Down the spur without locking up the gears? There has to be some fix for this. Or maybe there is a different brand cd tha would work? Cause that sucks if this is th norm for tekno cd. All the others I've used (ofna arrma, etc...) I've never had any issue like this
The esc was calibrated when I installed it in my other truck. Could it maybe need to be redone again? I agree that it seems like it is thinking fwd is reverse and reverse is fwd but how do I fix that? I know the wires were plugged in right I always do it the same way. But according to castle polarity doesn't matter. When I first tried running it I pulled the trigger and it went in reverse. So I reversed the throttle at the controller. But there is still something wrong. I just hooked up castle link and it looks like the esc is setup right. It does mention that direction can be changed by flipping 2 wires. Which ones do I flip?
The esc was calibrated when I installed it in my other truck. Could it maybe need to be redone again? I agree that it seems like it is thinking fwd is reverse and reverse is fwd but how do I fix that? I know the wires were plugged in right I always do it the same way. But according to castle polarity doesn't matter. When I first tried running it I pulled the trigger and it went in reverse. So I reversed the throttle at the controller. But there is still something wrong. I just hooked up castle link and it looks like the esc is setup right. It does mention that direction can be changed by flipping 2 wires. Which ones do I flip?
Last edited by Slapjack; 07-19-2015 at 03:46 PM.
#4380
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 49
Would it help maybe to use 2 diff Gaskets so it gives me a little more height clearance to tighten Down the spur without locking up the gears? There has to be some fix for this. Or maybe there is a different brand cd tha would work? Cause that sucks if this is th norm for tekno cd. All the others I've used (ofna arrma, etc...) I've never had any issue like this
The esc was calibrated when I installed it in my other truck. Could it maybe need to be redone again? I agree that it seems like it is thinking fwd is reverse and reverse is fwd but how do I fix that? I know the wires were plugged in right I always do it the same way. But according to castle polarity doesn't matter. When I first tried running it I pulled the trigger and it went in reverse. So I reversed the throttle at the controller. But there is still something wrong. I just hooked up castle link and it looks like the esc is setup right. It does mention that direction can be changed by flipping 2 wires. Which ones do I flip?
The esc was calibrated when I installed it in my other truck. Could it maybe need to be redone again? I agree that it seems like it is thinking fwd is reverse and reverse is fwd but how do I fix that? I know the wires were plugged in right I always do it the same way. But according to castle polarity doesn't matter. When I first tried running it I pulled the trigger and it went in reverse. So I reversed the throttle at the controller. But there is still something wrong. I just hooked up castle link and it looks like the esc is setup right. It does mention that direction can be changed by flipping 2 wires. Which ones do I flip?
to change direction, you either change motor cables (you may not do that with sensored motors!), or change it within the program box/software.
That does not sound good at all, the problems with leaking diffs, bad diffcups (at least some have that problem), loosening pins, breaking diff cases. It's supposed to be top of the shelf stuff?
I wanted to get one, and I can't send bad diff cases or cups back to the US?!? Are you kidding? In case that they want to futher sell cars in Europe, they should think about that philosophy...



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