I don't know anyone else running tekno in north west UK or of any UK stockists. I love my teknos and mine are gradually getting recognised as the great cars they are. Is there a plan to start UK distribution? Not that I've ever needed a new part they are that good but the option of quicker availability rather than waiting for overseas would be great!

DMS Racing in the UK are starting to keep quite a lot of spares, especially for the EB48.2 and SCT410, give them a go.

Guys what Truck body will Fit perfectly on the ET48 Chassis. I dont mind the body not hugging chassis sides since ill be casually bashing ... I feel like converting my truggy into a Truck (Looks wise) just for the fun of it! Please let me Know. Links would be appreciated!

edit: I dont know the exact name of the body, but I thought it looked cool, and might be something you would be interested in doing.. Good luck!

Did you guys bore out the a arm hinge pin holes when assembling kit? My rears weren't too bad and I just had to sand the width a little to free up the movement but my fronts are pretty tight. The thing that's weird is the pins are already slightly smaller than the holes and the pin only binds up about .125" from the ends. The manual says to use 4mm reamer but I don't have one and can't find metric at any stores. I was wondering if anyone used a standard size but to drill those out. I have an 11/64 that works out to be around 4.25mm I just don't want to do that then have too much slop. Any ideas?

Yes, I've been using a 4mm Hudy.

From the EB48.3 manual: "Use a #19 drill bit or 4mm reamer to ream arms until hinge pin falls through freely"

As long as they are free and not binding up with dirt during operation, that is the key point here. When they bind up with dirt, then it changes the way the suspension operates.

*Edit* #19 is ~4.2164mm

I have always run the truck before I decide to ream or not . At 8lbs or more , snug seems to fit very well after a half hour of running. Allso , I have great luck putting the pin in a drill , and rubbing compound in the arm and spinning the pin in it . Usually frees it right up for me without having to ream anything . Just a thought

I wouldn't do this. I use polishing compound on the pins occasionally to ensure optimum movement, but you want the pins to be nice and snug in the inserts. If they aren't, this will lead to pin rotation in the insert, a part not made for that. The only way to avoid this is to polish the pins at a taper, which isn't the easiest or most consistent thing to do. Hopefully that makes sense.

Thanks. Just grabbed a #19 bit and I'll try it later. The rears where slightly snug but still had good movement. The fronts were very tight so I'm just gna do them and leave the rears alone.

Spinning the pins in the arms where the tight spot is opens the arms up , doesn't change the shape of the pins at all . The plastic is much softer than the steel . Takes all of 20 seconds and the only part of the pin that actually contacts polish or the arm is the part of the pin that should be IN the arm. The ends remain untouched. To clarify

I see, most would polish the pins outside of the car, you're actually doing it in the arm/car? Interesting way to do it.

Old timer showed me once on a short course truck and I liked it . Doesn't really polish the pin so much as wear the plastic in the arm just a touch to allow some extra clearance . But its normally enough to free things up .

Yup, I'm with you. Interesting way to do it.

As long as the pins are free of movement, this is key

That's my truck It's a 1972 Chevy C10 Long Bed from Pro-Line. I've used the same body on my SCT410 with 10th scale monster truck tires to make a fun basher. It doesn't quite hug the chassis but it's pretty close. I'm also going to run it on my ET, but I'll probably run the buggy front tower so I can use the SC body mounts.

Pretty cool looking body!