coombes

iTrader: (6)

hi there guys I just wanted to know if the scte 1.0 lipo tray fit the scte 2.0 as I want to run the esc behind the lipo like the old 1.0 does

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Have a look at a couple post back. I showed how to do this without needing to remove anything from the 2.0. The way I did it also keeps the battery mid way back to further help the weight transfer. Once you go rearward with the weight, you might want to raise the mid diff's oil up to 7k to help stabilize the power band and prevent front ballooning.

p.hat

iTrader: (1)

thinking of picking this kit up; what are good things to upgrade if anything? best esc/motor combo for high traction indoor clay track with 2S lipo?

coombes

iTrader: (6)

I just want change to lipos tray straps

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

A lot of people go with the highly regarded pro4 4000kv/rx8 g2. But I run a hobby wing 4600 SCT combo for half the price and so far it's held it's own at my local races. Obviously you'll want a higher C rated 2s battery. I personally run 100c protek cells. As for instant upgrades I did and why are as follows>

XRA964050 - XRAY 5x15x0.3mm Washers
(They will last a really long time in diffs)
TLR3100 - Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Insert Set (won't warp like plastic)
TLR334017 - Aluminum 15 Degree Front Spindle Carrier (+2mm)
(helps with steering smoothness and cornering)
LOSB2130 - Losi Aluminum Rear Hub Set
(I just like alloy integrity around high stress bearings)
Vision Racing - Short drag link bearing steering drag link
(tightens up and smooths out the steering and response)
I use a Futaba S9352HV servo
(Fast as anything and as quality as they come( I like a responsive control)

This is just my example and what I think are wise choices for a solid base.
Many will have lots of other combos and opinions, but in the end you will need to research a lot and pay close attention to what the fast and consistent drivers use if you plan on staying competitive. Nothing obviously beats practice, but you can only be as good as your equipment will allow as well.

I hear ya. The rigid strap can be annoying sometimes. I think someone should consider making a single hole version with a fork on the other end, secured by lock wing nut. That would make it a lot less hassle to separate and exchange the battery while remaining rigid.

coombes

iTrader: (6)

I just want to have same batterie tray that the scte 1.0 has in it on the version two

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Can we bribe you to make us some of those ESC mounts? I'll take 2 if that helps.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

I have been asked by several people the same thing, so I messaged an able bodied company about producing these. We shall see what they have to say before I try any form of self production.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

You cannot mount the SCTE 1.0 tray on the SCTE 2.0. The holes are not there for this application.

4s losi

Hi highly recommend the king headz dual bearing center diff to. Really helps stabilize the drive train

p.hat

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the responses guys! appreciate it

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

The only things extra I would buy are serrated wheel nuts and a longer screw for the right front bottom shock mount (or left-hand threaded screw) otherwise it will constantly back out. I like my Hobbywing combo also (SCT pro esc/4000kv motor)

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Use a velcro strap sandwiched between the mounts and chassis. I've been running mine like this since the 2.0 came out with no issues and it's a lot easier to swap batteries.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/utffiw4a5...ch9l_z2ma?dl=0

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

what is the stock front spindle caster angle? does this give you more exit steering?

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

You where on this topic back on page 437. You never ordered them? They are really nice units.
Anyhow I did not even run the stocks long enough to be able to tell you for certain the full difference. But I do know they seem to allow the servo end point to increase which did give me a more aggressive turn.
The number one reason I bought these was to eliminate bind that I was getting from the plastic blocks with the plastic front hubs. The next thing I am going to replace will be the hubs them selves with alloy. Love to have metal around my bearings where I can.
As for the caster increase and 2mm rise, it's supposed to give a better plunge angle for the out drives, and increase weight transfer to the rear.
So all in all, if they just took out the bind from the steering and helped with the tighter turn angle, the rest is just butter on the bread. My truck is very dialed with the parts I mentioned and I couldn't be happier with how well it snaps around tight corners.