Anytime

If I calculated roll center height that would be complex to me at least but the importance of static roll center height is low in the grand scheme of things.
The roll center moves around when the car rolls, on some setups less than others, therefore finding a clear starting base is more important than having a set number and trying to make it work with the driving style and car geometry.
One thing I have to share is suspension - jacking forces. They are very important and the effects are tied with roll centers.

+ YouTube Video

Today went to the track, the surface was dry from last days rain. Sorry about the antenna.
This is one of my favourite buggy, handling pretty much neutral and provides predictable response. The track has holes is the hard acceleration areas and it's very uneven but the buggy doesn't get upset.

+ YouTube Video

Testing the MBX7 body, track is getting more inconsistent and I have to change front pistons to something smaller as I suspect the front is bottoming out. No change from stock MBX6 body to MBX7 body.

I changed my shock setup so my front and rear rollrates are pretty even and the bump handling was a lot better.

I'm happy to hear that!
Do you feel that the car lost something else or it gained better bump handling on top of the former capabilities?

Nope, other things stayed pretty much the same :-)

Very nice

Part two, any thing the car could do better?

More on power steering would be welcome, but I don't want to make my car too aggressive because we race on astro.
If it's too aggressive it, will flip over while cornering.

I was running 20-20-10 in the diffs and I think I'll try 30-20-15 next time. Other suggestions are also welcome :-)

I suggest a softer (or don't use) front roll bar to delay weight transfer and give more on power steering without making it nervous. Longer upper suspension links also work good in this regard.

Generally the more traction you have the softer the springs and/or shock oil, most of us haven't raced on astro (I did practised on a grass track many moons ago) so it sounds backwards but it's to absorb the blow of initial grip provided. Are you trimming the tires?

Front upper link is the longest as possible.
I could try a softer front or harder rear roll bar. Gotta best both combinations.

Yes, I know. I run my cars soft on astroturf. That way I can feel how it's roll in a turn and when it's going to flip over.
If I run my car with a hard suspension, it flips suddenly over and there's no margin to correct it.

I wasn't referring to you about the soft suspension

Personally wouldn't change the rear roll bar, messes too much with on and off power stability. As the upper link is as long as possible you can also try going up a hole in the shock tower. And about kick up and anti squat? Droop?
You could also try less front droop and/or less front kick up but they mess with other adjustments.

What do recommend in regards of kickup?
On my mbx7 I ran least almost the least amount of kick. This made the car more stable when entering a corner and it didn't griproll as easy.

Less kick up as you see fit, then tune steering characteristics with caster adjustments.

New version is up, a tiny help saying if you should go to a softer or stiffer rear spring based on the front spring. I feel it's the best way because typically setups have too soft rear springs.

Hey 30tooth have you considered trying out the vrp pistons? You can change the bound and rebound. COOL!