Anyone interested in buying a M01? I have one that is in amazing condition that I'm thinking about parting with. Would also trade for a 1/12 pan car. If you are interested PM me.

I know of an original M01 box, with the "free mechanical speed control" sticker on it, accompanied by a few OG old Cooper shells, for $25...Canadian!

Check it out!

Any pictures you can upload?

That Metric 48 Pitch term is the exact term they used and where I got it from
That explains alot
Thanks!!!

Hello M-Chassis fans!

I've recently put together my first fwd mini, an M-05 Pro Gold Edition.

This thread is long, and there's a lot of advice, some of which is very contrary to other guidance, so I'm resorting to some help for this particular setup.

What I've got:
The Gold Pro chassis built stock
5400 Aluminum dampers
TA03 ball diff
Ride 55m belted hard and medium compounds

It will be raced on fairly rough parking lot tracks with soda sprayed down. I don't want to spend any more on upgrades right now, as it's just for occasional use when enough mini owners bring them out.

A few other questions beyond help setting up the car.

Do I add a spacer/shim here? The gold kit seems to not have anything shorter.



Besides the springs in the kit (blue and yellow) it comes with these bright red ones. Any use?



Here's the tires I have besides the S-Grips I could use. They are used on a 225mm touring car right now (RIDE pair of hard & medium):



I put 2mm spacers front and rear between the links, and otherwise it's set up box stock. Curious which oil weights, spring combos, and spacer settings to use for the best results? Ride height too for asphalt (rough.)

Thanks!! It's been a confusing journey piecing this project together and I'm as lost as ever! ha

By request....a reposting of the 2008 rc-mini.net April Fools article that sucked in SOOOO many people..

Swapping V2 and M05 to digital servos

Tony, I wonder. How many people on here would not have realized that it was an April Fools article
If you didn't mention it at the top of the post...
I sure miss that site!

Here are some pictures of the m01

The spacers will put you in the ball park on the set up, but what happens when you need the link shorter???? Right, that's why I rarely, actually never use them. Since you don't want to add anything to the car, it's sort of tough to help you. For example, the springs you are running are much too stiff for an outdoor asphalt, but you say you don't want to buy new springs. The reason you get varying opinions on this thread is there is a wide disparity in posters in knowledge, experience, ability etc. Also if you, the reader, aren't careful the discussion could be about a totally different type of track and surface than you will experience, so you need to pay attention. Another factor is that many of us run under different rules than others, which can further confuse the issue. In your case the guys running under TCS rules or the occasional Aussie poster like
Calvin are probably closer to what you're looking for.

Best advice I can give you is take the car and run it every chance you can get. Never take the car out on 2 runs the same. Change something like the ride height, camber, toe out, battery placement, add or subtract weight, ride height rake, Transmitter settings, especially servo speed on turn in and return. Do that for awhile and you'll be the one answering the questions, not asking them. Too often, i'll see people go out and run battery after battery with the same set up and never learn anything.

ckfactory - Looks great. Sorry to sound stupid, but does your M01 have the parts needed to do 210mm wheel base and the body posts to run Rover Mini bodies? I only run Rover Mini bodies.

Okay, never mind everything I said about I can't tell the difference between running analog servo's and digital servo's even if both are 0.11sec/60.

There is a very noticeable difference when using the high speed mode on the 4PKS-R. So much easier to drive the cars now. I am running the Futaba S9452 servo's.

I got the Spektrum S6070 low profile coming for my M-Four (0.09sec/60).

Thanks for the response! The spacers are just cause I had them lying around, and look neat against the gold, but will eventually move into a more fine-tuning mode once I've had the opportunity to run it.

I'd be happy to spend a little one something like a spring set. Are you referring to the #53333 set?

Say I get the springs, which one to I run front and rear with the RIDE tires, and what weight oil would be a good place to start with the bumpy low grip conditions? I'd be happy to experiment as you suggest, and I will, but having no other front drive cars, or people to ask locally, I want to at least know I'm in the ball park, and not trying to drive a turd and write off minis like everyone else at our club did, who didn't want to mess with the insane amount of tricks, tips, and voodoo that goes along with these. They are almost a completely different hobby than other rubber tired r/cs.

I've shimmed up the kit pretty good, like I do my touring cars, so it's a solid build I'm really happy with, but the steering could use a tiny bit of tightening up. The dampers turned out damn near perfect on the first build, not unlike the other 3 sets of regular TRFs I have on other cars.

I will try using some TRF ball studs on the ends of the steering links, as I've heard that helps. The gold edition may have come with some aluminum steering posts that are not in the regular pro kit. Not sure. Really a shot in the dark with ordering it a while back as I was getting interested in minis. I have a lot of Tamiya stuff laying around. Maybe even some of those short touring springs (since they are all touring cars) somewhere... I'll have to look around. I didn't realize the m-chassis springs were harder than the bigger touring cars, but wasn't thinking about how heavy these are.

Hello Hayling,
As Granpa has said, many factors come into play with a mini. A mini is designed with slop built in. If you start shimming stuff you will have an evil minded car that will be a pig to drive. I only shim the steering , rear axles to take a little of the side to side movement out and the oil gear diff in my mini.
It is a personal choice, but I have seen many mini's that have been over shimmed create huge issues for new racers.
I replace the complete plastic steering on cars with Tamiya hopups, purely as for me I hit things occassionally and have bent the wiper arms and steering bridge. I also replaced the plastic hubs and knuckles with alloy, as they are stronger. Again your choice.
I do use spacers on my steering linkages, so they are even and my rear upper links to the hub. I usually run -1.5 degree rear camber and up front just use the standard link supplied in the kit. Steering I use a 0.5 to 2mm spacer depending on the track and car stability. We have learnt that on the MO5 front toe out makes for a more stable car that tracks straight. You need to experiment with tnis. I currently run a 0.5mm spacer with our control tyre.
The MO6 pins wher the bottom of your shock attaches too, was not to my liking. I made my shocks 56.5mm in length and fitted them in the normal place above the front arm in the little bump. If using the MO6 pins I found the car needed to be run softer. That is oil and springs. 3 hole pistons, red springs front, yellow rear.
The 55mm Ride tyres 3035 front and 3027 rear will work, but depending on the inserts may push a little. Here in Australia we used to use 3035 front with a 4.1 green or orange fitted insert in summer and use the 3027 on the front in winter, same inserts. The ride tyres will be a it skatey until you wear the ridge out of the middle, then they will square off.
Ride height on a bumpy track is run the car and see. You will notice if the car is sliding, but ball park would be 5 mm front and 5.5 to 6mm rear. Although some will run lower. Depends on your driving style and whether you have traction roll issues. Slamming the car down does not necessarily rectify that problem.
Setting your transmitter correctly also helps in mini. I run negative 25 on my steering and do not use full steering throw. Mini is about being smooth and fast.
The basic MO5 is not balanced, so you might want to balance the car by running your ESC on the right rear and rx on the left. Add some tyre ballast to the front and inbetween the motor screws.
The best bet is to run the car and make adjustments to suit your track and driving style.
Any further questions ask away. I did post a MO5 setup on here, many pages ago. It may help.
Regards,
Calvin.

In addition to what caltek1 already stated, I suggest balancing left to right by also shifting the battery weight away from the motor side. This helps greatly on the M03 and M05's running sport pack batteries.

V2 is pretty dialed from the getgo.