Technique to stay low when jumping?
#1
The indoor track I frequent has numerous doubles and I've noticed that the fast drivers can keep the car very low while the inexperienced, like myself, seem to pop off and get a lot of air, even at the same speed.
It's a combination of throttle control and car setup? What's the secret?
It's a combination of throttle control and car setup? What's the secret?
#2
Are you comparing like vs like vehicles? I.e. a buggy will naturally tend to fly more like a "line-drive" whereas a SC truck will just about always be a "pop-fly."
However, one way to induce a more "line-drive" flight path is to lift slightly on the bottom of the jump, squirt the throttle on the top and then use brake in-air to bring the nose down. Or, they may actually be going quick(er) on the run-up, coasting the take off and using a mid-air throttle squirt to bring the nose up. Will vary with the car type and jump construction/distance and is kinda hard to explain in text though - a difficult skill learned only though practice time, practice time and more practice time...
However, one way to induce a more "line-drive" flight path is to lift slightly on the bottom of the jump, squirt the throttle on the top and then use brake in-air to bring the nose down. Or, they may actually be going quick(er) on the run-up, coasting the take off and using a mid-air throttle squirt to bring the nose up. Will vary with the car type and jump construction/distance and is kinda hard to explain in text though - a difficult skill learned only though practice time, practice time and more practice time...
#3
#4
To much Drag Brake
To much drag brake can pitch the nose down. The simple solution is to take some or all of it out.
Off Throttle Too Soon
Getting off the throttle before the vehicle clears the end of the jump ramp will pitch the nose down. Sometimes I may use this technique on a short steep double jump to set-up for a larger jump that follows, but most of the time I role off the throttle after the vehicle has left the top of the ramp to control the pitch. With a little practice you can land the vehicle on all four by slightly rolling off and on the throttle while in flight.
Shock Oil and Springs
The wrong spring and oil set-up on the shocks is the trickiest to diagnose and adjust. At times I have even used video tape played back in slow motion to diagnose the problem. If the vehicle has too light of an oil in the rear shocks, the rear chassis will bottom out slapping the face of the jump then rebound quickly making the vehicle pitch forward as it goes off the end of the jump. By going to a heaver oil in the rear, the chassis will not bottom out as hard and the rebound is also more controlled. Think of the front and rear as two bouncy balls attached by a string. If one ball is bouncing higher then the other, it will send the balls going end over end. What makes this the trickiest, and usually a trial and error adjustment, is that the shape, size, and speed of the jumps are all different. Compromises have to be made in spring, piston and shock oil for ALL the obstacles on a track while still maintaining good balance through the corners and rough sections of the race track. My approach to the compromise of setting up for a new race track is to work on the jumps first, then the rough bouncy sections, and then the balance and speed through the corners with adjustments other than shocks and springs.
To much drag brake can pitch the nose down. The simple solution is to take some or all of it out.
Off Throttle Too Soon
Getting off the throttle before the vehicle clears the end of the jump ramp will pitch the nose down. Sometimes I may use this technique on a short steep double jump to set-up for a larger jump that follows, but most of the time I role off the throttle after the vehicle has left the top of the ramp to control the pitch. With a little practice you can land the vehicle on all four by slightly rolling off and on the throttle while in flight.
Shock Oil and Springs
The wrong spring and oil set-up on the shocks is the trickiest to diagnose and adjust. At times I have even used video tape played back in slow motion to diagnose the problem. If the vehicle has too light of an oil in the rear shocks, the rear chassis will bottom out slapping the face of the jump then rebound quickly making the vehicle pitch forward as it goes off the end of the jump. By going to a heaver oil in the rear, the chassis will not bottom out as hard and the rebound is also more controlled. Think of the front and rear as two bouncy balls attached by a string. If one ball is bouncing higher then the other, it will send the balls going end over end. What makes this the trickiest, and usually a trial and error adjustment, is that the shape, size, and speed of the jumps are all different. Compromises have to be made in spring, piston and shock oil for ALL the obstacles on a track while still maintaining good balance through the corners and rough sections of the race track. My approach to the compromise of setting up for a new race track is to work on the jumps first, then the rough bouncy sections, and then the balance and speed through the corners with adjustments other than shocks and springs.
#5
on a losi scte all you need to do is learn to control your trigger finger. I race losi scte. and if you wanta say jump 15 feet off a 1 foot jump pull the trigger all the way up the ramp.. if you want a short jump brake will bring it down fast.. its all in th use..I use zero drag break...
#6




