Inexpensive tools?
#16
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 3,673
From: Naperville, IL
I highly recommend investing in a cordless screwdriver with a variable clutch. I went with a Makita. There's a lot cheaper options but it just works really well for me and I also use it around the house so it was worth it to me.
I find that Protek tools are pretty good bang for the buck.
#22
It's a big investment, but they will last you a lifetime.
These sets http://miponline.com/store/mip9512.html (SAE and Metric)get you the most popular and can be used with the driver of your choice, manual or power. They work great and take up little space in your pit box.
Think about this, you strip out a screw because of a cheap bit, then not only do you have down time, but the cost of getting the screw out. When someone brings us a car with a stripped screw at the store the first thing we do is grab the MIP stuff and usually it comes out. If not they get drilled or cut out.
I bought Integy stuff, broke them real fast, then dynamite, some broke, some lasted. Now I just use the dynamite handle for my MIP bits.
These sets http://miponline.com/store/mip9512.html (SAE and Metric)get you the most popular and can be used with the driver of your choice, manual or power. They work great and take up little space in your pit box.
Think about this, you strip out a screw because of a cheap bit, then not only do you have down time, but the cost of getting the screw out. When someone brings us a car with a stripped screw at the store the first thing we do is grab the MIP stuff and usually it comes out. If not they get drilled or cut out.
I bought Integy stuff, broke them real fast, then dynamite, some broke, some lasted. Now I just use the dynamite handle for my MIP bits.
#23
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 564
Get the MIP 2mm, 1.5mm and 2.5mm if you want the set of three.
Anything larger than 2mm and it wont matter much, but a top quality 1.5mm and 2mm is essential. The rest of your kit you can get away with anything that suits your budget
For imperial, you can substitute sizing and an imperial 1/16th will save you from the torture of a stripped 1.5mm grub screw. (once)
Anything larger than 2mm and it wont matter much, but a top quality 1.5mm and 2mm is essential. The rest of your kit you can get away with anything that suits your budget
For imperial, you can substitute sizing and an imperial 1/16th will save you from the torture of a stripped 1.5mm grub screw. (once)
I would agree that the dynamites are pretty good, but I'd say get the red metal handled ones, not the rubber handled ones - the handles are too small to get any torque. The bigger the handle the better from my experience. even the red handled dynamite ones are a pain if you're trying to break loose a really stubborn screw. I like the larger handles like on the duratrax. I'd like to try some new ones as my dynamites are getting sloppy, but nowhere online does it ever say how large the handles are.
The MIP's are fantastic quality, i have a 1.3mm for a specific heli that I had and It's easily the best quality screwdriver I have. I will probably have my LHS order up the 2.0mm in case the handle is small so I don't have to buy it. ha
#24
I work on real cars too so it is natural for me to buy expensive tools (Snap-on, Facom, SK, Matco, Xcelite, ChannelLock, Beta, Wera, Wiha, just to name a few).
For my RC I bought a small metal tool box and about $500 of tools including a lower torque Panasonic driver and all Wera hand tools with several driver bits, dedicated Xcelites in smaller sizes, Olfa cutters, Tamiya's high end tools, etc.
Don't go cheap because you will end up buying replacements. Not only that, chances are you will round off screw heads at the worst of times. GL!
#25
For the tool box I use, search Excel TB124-Red 14-Inch Cantilever Steel Tool Box on ebay.
The thing is awesome. Compact in size, metal, and just pull up the handles and the thing closes all at once. I use a Craftsman non-slip drawer mat inside to keep everything in place.
The thing is awesome. Compact in size, metal, and just pull up the handles and the thing closes all at once. I use a Craftsman non-slip drawer mat inside to keep everything in place.
#27
I have a set of Hudy ltd edition wrenches. I love the handles, but the tips are just OK. For the price they really should be a bit better than they are. My 1.5mm I've had to replace the tip on once already(sheared off removing a rather tight pinion set screw)and when I bought a Hudy replacement tip I also bought a protek "TruTorque" replacement tip at the same time as well. Quality is top notch on those protek tips. I've used the Protek one a ton and it barely shows any wear. Honestly, I trust it more than my 1.5mm Hudy tip.
http://www.amain.com/protek-rc-truto...-set-4/p212283
You definitely can't go wrong with those MIP tools that everyone mentioned in this thread. I can't stand the look of those urine colored plastic handles, but EVERYONE swears by the quality of those drivers.
To save a few bucks, the best deal might be to find a really cheap set of drivers that can use the standard replacement tips (maybe even a used set of tools) then just buy 1.5mm and 2mm good quality replacement tips. I do recommend those protek replacement tips. They're only around $6 each and are great quality.
All of my kits are metric, but I often need to use a 1/16th driver for random pinions and TC wing mount screws. It's handy to have a good one of those too. If a 1.5mm driver feels a little bit loose in the hole, it's probably actually a 1/16th
http://www.amain.com/protek-rc-truto...-set-4/p212283
You definitely can't go wrong with those MIP tools that everyone mentioned in this thread. I can't stand the look of those urine colored plastic handles, but EVERYONE swears by the quality of those drivers.
To save a few bucks, the best deal might be to find a really cheap set of drivers that can use the standard replacement tips (maybe even a used set of tools) then just buy 1.5mm and 2mm good quality replacement tips. I do recommend those protek replacement tips. They're only around $6 each and are great quality.
All of my kits are metric, but I often need to use a 1/16th driver for random pinions and TC wing mount screws. It's handy to have a good one of those too. If a 1.5mm driver feels a little bit loose in the hole, it's probably actually a 1/16th
#28
Tech Addict
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 564
Another thing a bit annoying about the MIPs is that the sizes marked on them is very hard to read, and all of the drivers look identical. I think they may have just addressed that issue and marked the sizes clearly on the shanks recently, unless it's only those quick bits I'm thinking of.
Very true about a 1/16. if you strip out a 1.5mm, use a 1/16 and it'll fit well enough to get it out usually.
Very true about a 1/16. if you strip out a 1.5mm, use a 1/16 and it'll fit well enough to get it out usually.
#29
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 164
From: Philadelphia pa
Had the dynamite start up set. Was junk I use tools for a living so I know I didnt abuse them. They stripped very easily and damaged plenty of heads. Best bet if you have metric hardware mip makes a set of hex drivers I shopped around got them on Amazon for $30 shipped picked up a 5.5 and 7mm klein nutdriver on Amazon $6 a piece shipped all made in the US tough use the brand for work and Home Depot has a set of needle nose and cutters by crescent/ cooper tools for like $13 all made in usa tough as nails and not to bad price wise you can pick up odds and ends as you go. But I will say cheap tools will cost more in the long run in screws and buying new tools. Good luck!
#30
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 164
From: Philadelphia pa
And if you need to solder weller makes a 40 watt for like $20 at the depot don't buy less then a 40 watt and if you decide to upgrade in the future it's a good one to take to the track because you don't wanna bring a $100 station with you



