using the truck for speed runs, not sure which model i have. my problem with the truck is that, when i get it down the street and finally pull the trigger all the way, it lifts up, but only one side does(not all the time,but alot)
im thinking that there is something wrong with how i have truck setup up or maybe there is something missing.. heres what it has
Mamba Max Pro/w 2200kv
6 cell 2x-3cell
86/26 gearing
diffs never been touched or checked
shocks are factory i believe? with plastic pre loads,also never been checked or looked at..
all new bearings in everything.
stock drive train--tranny,axles,diffs,drive shafts
rpm arms,knuckles

Does your suspension move freely? You may have a shock binding up or a pillow ball cap (in the knuckle) too tight, causing the articulation of the arm to seize up.

I had the same issue. The right frt wheel picks up under extreme acceleration. Torque twist. The frame flexing is some of it. I did notice the lower I got with the truck, lashing the A Arms to level, the less it did it. Had 3 T-Maxxes and 3 E-Maxxes. They all did this to some level.

Try this, remove one of the left frt shock spacers, a 1/4 inch one. This lets the left front suspension absorb some of this, before allowing the right frt to rise.

Doublecheck your suspension.

You should lower the truck as much as possible for speed runs. Changing shock positions is the easiest way. Probably want to stiffen up the shock fluid and springs too.

ya, suspension is pretty loose from what i gather, im almost sure 1 shock per arm is leaking or has no fluid in it,the pillow balls are new,so are knuckles

that sounds almost perfect..im gonna try that and see if it helps,its always the left front that lifts

your right about that, i know it sounds crazy, but for this build,it still has to go off road and off of jumps while still being fast on the pavement

They have the same issue on the new Yeti. Right frt wheel picks up under hard acceleration. It comes from the truck squatting slightly and the frame twisting. The low KV 1/8th motors put out some monster torque. If you're going to mainly do speed runs, it's normal to lash the suspension. Then to bash with, just cut them loose and let it have full suspension.

I just picked up a fairly pristine factory Castle 3908 E-Maxx tonight off Ebay, got a killer deal, and will be setting it up like I always do.

hey fyi i have a tmaxx converted emaxx i run 2100kv on 4s and 26/68 gearing for normal use for the entire charge of my 4500mah battery so im sure u can gear higher

oh ya i know i can gear higher,but i spend so much time going from pavement to dirt and jumps that i didnt think i could use the higher gearing

I think you meant 68/26

lol yes sir

It happened to my Emaxx like that too, thanks spookie I,m gonna try that

NP, I know me and a few others exspiremented with rear sway bars to stop the single rear wheel squat that happens on these, that allows the front tire to rise during hard cornering acceleration. A nasty habit these have. I was looking at a GPM? T-Maxx rear sway bar on Ebay recently, but for the life of me couldn't figure out how effective it would be. I actually built my own on one T and also one E-maxx using this principle. I attached it to the chassis braces, near the rear, where they attach to the chassis, then attached to the lower A-Arms. The lessons the wild sagging on the rear under hard cornering accerations. One A-Arm, holds the other A-Arm true, sort of. The bar flexes to control both of them. The object is to "bind" the chassis to the A-Arms, to control all three. Lol, sometimes I have alot of time on my hands to try things but I could tell the differance. The thicker the rod, the less flex there is. I used a 3/16 appprox. for my stuff.

Two auto sway bars. They come in different shapes and thicknesses to match each cars weight and desired amount of body roll.

Weight transfer on an awd truck with independent suspension shouldnt be that bad. The single axle trucks will definitely have this problem though. You have to check the diffs and either lock them or try silly putty inside to get them to basically lock. This will deliver power to both wheels equally. Check bearings and suspension too. Basically anything that could bind or throw the suspension off balance will affect your ability to travel in a straight line.