295LikesTamiya mini cooper
01-27-2015 | 07:20 PM
I'm curious as to why people still say the TA03 ball diff is better than the M05 ball diff? Ive had dozens of TA03 ball diffs through the years and they were always a pain with very little adjustment IMO. I have had the same M05 ball diff in my car for almost 3 years without any rebuild and its still smooth as butter. I've never broke a diff screw or anything and I find it very adjustable. Anyone that knows me knows I don't drive my mini like Miss Daisy...just curious...
01-27-2015 | 09:49 PM
Good question. I heard the earlier ones were a bit fragile. I've only ever owned a few TA03 diffs, because they're tough as nails. Just rebuild every few years and you're good. I have heard of some breaking the adjuster nut, however.
I missed having an actual diff in my car so much - we all went to the fluid filled diffs here, with 500,000 - 1.5M wt silicone - that I've stuffed a fairly loose TA03 diff back in there. I don't win races (and I wouldn't anyway) but my car is an absolute joy to drive.
I missed having an actual diff in my car so much - we all went to the fluid filled diffs here, with 500,000 - 1.5M wt silicone - that I've stuffed a fairly loose TA03 diff back in there. I don't win races (and I wouldn't anyway) but my car is an absolute joy to drive.
01-28-2015 | 05:45 AM
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 175
From: Norway
I am using the Spec-R mini oil diff for my M-06 and M-05pro2. I also got several of them with different type of oils. From 2k to 150k, depending on the track I am driving on.
Liking it better than the ball diffs, but that is my personal opinion.
They are quite cheep and you can prepare them at home, just swap at the track.
On my local track I use the same diff all year.
Liking it better than the ball diffs, but that is my personal opinion.
They are quite cheep and you can prepare them at home, just swap at the track.
On my local track I use the same diff all year.
01-28-2015 | 07:07 AM
I just installed 54409 Low Friction Step Screw set in my M05 as new kingpins and they have a lot of play. Thinking it was worn out C-hubs, I replaced em with new ones...the same thing.
Am I missing something here? Like bushing or have to use a non-standard C-hub (e.g. hop up or aftermarket)?
Am I missing something here? Like bushing or have to use a non-standard C-hub (e.g. hop up or aftermarket)?
01-28-2015 | 09:45 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 421
From: Tustin,CA,USA
m-chassis big bore and "black bits"..scroll down
on display at Nuremberg toy fair
these should be in stores soon? (announced at Tamiya Fair)
54613 OP1613 M-05 Ver.II Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set
54614 OP1614 M-05 Ver.II Carbon Reinforced L Parts (Suspension Arms)
54615 OP1615 M-05 Ver.II 3 x 58mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shaft (2 pieces)
54623 OP1623 M Chassis Ring Fixed Type Wheel Axel
on display at Nuremberg toy fair
these should be in stores soon? (announced at Tamiya Fair)
54613 OP1613 M-05 Ver.II Stainless Steel Suspension Shaft Set
54614 OP1614 M-05 Ver.II Carbon Reinforced L Parts (Suspension Arms)
54615 OP1615 M-05 Ver.II 3 x 58mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shaft (2 pieces)
54623 OP1623 M Chassis Ring Fixed Type Wheel Axel
Last edited by torg; 01-28-2015 at 11:17 AM. Reason: DesJardins: pointed out hotlink issue
01-28-2015 | 11:16 AM
Going with big bore dampers seems excessive when they only need to move a few MM, but they sure are pretty. The black anodized bits, though...I'm digging those. Just need to find black front uprights.
I think my favourite M chassis hop ups were when they were done in that pale bronze/almost titanium finish. Subtle, functional and not bright freaking blue.
EDIT: Looked through the rest of the stuff and one thing stands out - the new 15.5t motor. Why? There are standards and rules everyone has adapted to for different classes of racing worldwide (13.5, 17.5, 21.5, etc) and Tamiya's banging their head against a wall again. Yikes.
I think my favourite M chassis hop ups were when they were done in that pale bronze/almost titanium finish. Subtle, functional and not bright freaking blue.
EDIT: Looked through the rest of the stuff and one thing stands out - the new 15.5t motor. Why? There are standards and rules everyone has adapted to for different classes of racing worldwide (13.5, 17.5, 21.5, etc) and Tamiya's banging their head against a wall again. Yikes.
01-28-2015 | 12:15 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,554
From: Edmonton Ab
Going with big bore dampers seems excessive when they only need to move a few MM, but they sure are pretty. The black anodized bits, though...I'm digging those. Just need to find black front uprights.
I think my favourite M chassis hop ups were when they were done in that pale bronze/almost titanium finish. Subtle, functional and not bright freaking blue.
EDIT: Looked through the rest of the stuff and one thing stands out - the new 15.5t motor. Why? There are standards and rules everyone has adapted to for different classes of racing worldwide (13.5, 17.5, 21.5, etc) and Tamiya's banging their head against a wall again. Yikes.
I think my favourite M chassis hop ups were when they were done in that pale bronze/almost titanium finish. Subtle, functional and not bright freaking blue.
EDIT: Looked through the rest of the stuff and one thing stands out - the new 15.5t motor. Why? There are standards and rules everyone has adapted to for different classes of racing worldwide (13.5, 17.5, 21.5, etc) and Tamiya's banging their head against a wall again. Yikes.
Still no motor for the mini though....