TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD
#2836
................
I dont know if he is kidding or not....it's hard to tell.....I really laughed out loud. Please Google max amps or search this site for more (a lot more) info before going that route.Please.
I use turnigy nanotechs in my all my 1/10's,and for 1/8 - e buggy, e truggy, e 1/8th on road and even 5th hpi e buggy....they are very reasonably priced. The have 2 USA warehouses to choose from.
Good luck
Cooper
#2839
You mean the drivers right, because that's not "always" true every car is good in different ways... I can tell since I switch to Kyosho my driving saw no improvement, only you can make yourself faster!
#2840
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
my other option if I can make them fit would be to use 2 2s 7200 Orion's I have that have never been used. What do you think? I like the idea of having a couple of dedicated 4s packs over running 2 2s packs in parallel.
#2842
I was limited by the stock battery tray in my rc8be and rc8te. So these were the only reasonably priced 4s that fit without mods.
When I switched to the 8ight e 3.0 I just kept using them and still do. Have worked great in truggy (2200kv), old buggy (2650kv) and new 3.0 (1900kv).
Just ordered 4 more from the USA warehouses for 188 shipped.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
When I switched to the 8ight e 3.0 I just kept using them and still do. Have worked great in truggy (2200kv), old buggy (2650kv) and new 3.0 (1900kv).
Just ordered 4 more from the USA warehouses for 188 shipped.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html
#2844
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 650
Why would I be kidding? Max amps are the best. In my opinion. I've used them in my 4x4 and in my e-buggy and haven't had any problems and they come with a pretty good warranty. I have never used those nano techs, but from the reviews on hobby king, they look like you get what you pay for.
#2845
I've used TP, MaxAmps, Nano, Orion, Dynamite & others in everything from ground to flight RC & that's an option based debate that nobody wins.
Anyways... This has been a decent thread with some helpful info
Anyways... This has been a decent thread with some helpful info
#2846
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 4,610
From: Vancouver, Washington
#2847
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Hey guys I just finished building my kit. I have built probably 20 1/10 scale kits in my time but this is my first 1/8. Anyway I am having some issues with my center diff and rear diff. The front diff was built first and works smoothly. The center and rear seems to have a portion of it that gets real notchy feeling if that makes sense. They both spin smooth about 3/4 and have about 1/4 of the turn that doesn't feel right to me. Any ideas? I am thinking this is not something that will wear in so I haven't run it yet. I didn't notice it with just the diff but noticed it when I put the diff in the case with the pinion.
#2848
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 121
Hey guys I just finished building my kit. I have built probably 20 1/10 scale kits in my time but this is my first 1/8. Anyway I am having some issues with my center diff and rear diff. The front diff was built first and works smoothly. The center and rear seems to have a portion of it that gets real notchy feeling if that makes sense. They both spin smooth about 3/4 and have about 1/4 of the turn that doesn't feel right to me. Any ideas? I am thinking this is not something that will wear in so I haven't run it yet. I didn't notice it with just the diff but noticed it when I put the diff in the case with the pinion.
rebuild ensuring it spins great before putting the spur gear back on and check the actual spur gear has no chipping/missing teeth.
the centre diff should be the smoothest out of all them as it dosnt require shimming.
#2849
pull the centre diff apart and start again checking that the spider and planetary gears are ok, ie no teeth chipped, missing etc.
rebuild ensuring it spins great before putting the spur gear back on and check the actual spur gear has no chipping/missing teeth.
the centre diff should be the smoothest out of all them as it dosnt require shimming.
rebuild ensuring it spins great before putting the spur gear back on and check the actual spur gear has no chipping/missing teeth.
the centre diff should be the smoothest out of all them as it dosnt require shimming.
#2850
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
Well I took it apart again. It was the rear diff. I had the diff shimmed like the manual said but I had to swap sides with the small shim. It is much smoother and doesn't have the notchy feel anymore. My question is how do you know what is the correct shimming? Is it just a feel thing?



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