121LikesTAMIYA M-06 Thread
01-07-2015 | 09:43 PM
#1652
Absolute necessary upgrades
1. TRF dampers
2. Turnbuckle links to adjust F/R camber and front toe
3. Upgrade diff: I personally run M05 ball diff. Others run Spec R or 3Racing gear diff. All are lighter than stock
Secondary upgrades
1. CVD axles - I know some would place this in category one. They make the car more efficient but not detrimental in my opinion
2. Rear 1 degree hubs. Plastic is 2 degrees and chassis has 1.5 built in, so stock set up is 3.5, which is too high in my opinion. I've been running the 1 degrees for quite some time
Set up:
TRF damper
60wt / yellow spring front
60wt / blue sprint rear
Shock length: rear has full length travel / droop, While front has 0 droop (I can't recall how many spacers that makes inside damper)
Suspension: -1'degree camber on rear, 0 degree on front. Front toe is 0 as well. Ride height is 5 mm on rear and 4 mm on front.
Shock position: rear is centre hole, front I tend to change from middle hole to inner hole.
I'm presently running the soft rear roll bar. No roll bar in front. It seems to be helping.
Battery position: I run a shorty battery positioned all the way in the front. I able to do this because I have the R spec axle weights which were never sold alone. Shorty pack is good to have because it lets you move the weight around for the traction you need. You will also want to balance the chassis from left to right, it helps a lot.
Tyres: the m chassis S, M, and H radials are good for track that has medium to low traction. Insert: i use the blue on the S grip and the standard grey (firm) on the m and h compound.
If traction is medium to high, I recommend the Pit Shimizu tyres. They come in 60 diameter S, M, H compound or 55D racing with numbered shores. The inserts that come with them are worthless. I run sweep soft pink inserts in mine
For traction compound I run SXT.
ESC: if you feel you need brakes, add drag brake to settings. Normal brakes are not recommended, because you will swap ends. I have mine set to minimum.
Driving: when entering a turn you need to let off throttle for a second and once its entered the turn apply power, gently, It likes to be driven while on power.
Hope this helps
Long live RWD!
1. TRF dampers
2. Turnbuckle links to adjust F/R camber and front toe
3. Upgrade diff: I personally run M05 ball diff. Others run Spec R or 3Racing gear diff. All are lighter than stock
Secondary upgrades
1. CVD axles - I know some would place this in category one. They make the car more efficient but not detrimental in my opinion
2. Rear 1 degree hubs. Plastic is 2 degrees and chassis has 1.5 built in, so stock set up is 3.5, which is too high in my opinion. I've been running the 1 degrees for quite some time
Set up:
TRF damper
60wt / yellow spring front
60wt / blue sprint rear
Shock length: rear has full length travel / droop, While front has 0 droop (I can't recall how many spacers that makes inside damper)
Suspension: -1'degree camber on rear, 0 degree on front. Front toe is 0 as well. Ride height is 5 mm on rear and 4 mm on front.
Shock position: rear is centre hole, front I tend to change from middle hole to inner hole.
I'm presently running the soft rear roll bar. No roll bar in front. It seems to be helping.
Battery position: I run a shorty battery positioned all the way in the front. I able to do this because I have the R spec axle weights which were never sold alone. Shorty pack is good to have because it lets you move the weight around for the traction you need. You will also want to balance the chassis from left to right, it helps a lot.
Tyres: the m chassis S, M, and H radials are good for track that has medium to low traction. Insert: i use the blue on the S grip and the standard grey (firm) on the m and h compound.
If traction is medium to high, I recommend the Pit Shimizu tyres. They come in 60 diameter S, M, H compound or 55D racing with numbered shores. The inserts that come with them are worthless. I run sweep soft pink inserts in mine
For traction compound I run SXT.
ESC: if you feel you need brakes, add drag brake to settings. Normal brakes are not recommended, because you will swap ends. I have mine set to minimum.
Driving: when entering a turn you need to let off throttle for a second and once its entered the turn apply power, gently, It likes to be driven while on power.
Hope this helps
Long live RWD!
01-18-2015 | 08:18 AM
#1655
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 120
From: Canada
yesterday I run my m06(the red special one with axle weight) on carpet and found it has too much off-powering steering with too much traction at rear. But if you loss your gas and make it coasting and steer to a limit the rear would loss traction in a sudden.
My car is running:
blue front
yellow rear
400cst all around
stock diff
m grip all around
I am thinking, maybe I can use a optional diff and tighten it a little bit or increase the oil weight of front damper a little bit?
My car is running:
blue front
yellow rear
400cst all around
stock diff
m grip all around
I am thinking, maybe I can use a optional diff and tighten it a little bit or increase the oil weight of front damper a little bit?
01-18-2015 | 09:02 AM
#1656
Hi Policeman,
To me it appears that you are having some weight transfer issues from front to rear. The front should have no droop, the arms should be parallel to the chassis and ground. You do this by adding o-rings inside damper. You can also go up in oil to 50cst.
For the rear, try reducing the rear toe. The M06R comes with the 2.0 rear upright, try the 1.0 as well. There's a guy on here that actually ran the 2.0 in reverse, meaning left on right side and vice versa. He had a lot of success on carpet, not recommended for asphalt. So try that as well.
As for camber, front should be 0, rear try reducing it to -1
To me it appears that you are having some weight transfer issues from front to rear. The front should have no droop, the arms should be parallel to the chassis and ground. You do this by adding o-rings inside damper. You can also go up in oil to 50cst.
For the rear, try reducing the rear toe. The M06R comes with the 2.0 rear upright, try the 1.0 as well. There's a guy on here that actually ran the 2.0 in reverse, meaning left on right side and vice versa. He had a lot of success on carpet, not recommended for asphalt. So try that as well.
As for camber, front should be 0, rear try reducing it to -1
01-18-2015 | 03:54 PM
#1657
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 120
From: Canada
Hi Policeman,
To me it appears that you are having some weight transfer issues from front to rear. The front should have no droop, the arms should be parallel to the chassis and ground. You do this by adding o-rings inside damper. You can also go up in oil to 50cst.
For the rear, try reducing the rear toe. The M06R comes with the 2.0 rear upright, try the 1.0 as well. There's a guy on here that actually ran the 2.0 in reverse, meaning left on right side and vice versa. He had a lot of success on carpet, not recommended for asphalt. So try that as well.
As for camber, front should be 0, rear try reducing it to -1
To me it appears that you are having some weight transfer issues from front to rear. The front should have no droop, the arms should be parallel to the chassis and ground. You do this by adding o-rings inside damper. You can also go up in oil to 50cst.
For the rear, try reducing the rear toe. The M06R comes with the 2.0 rear upright, try the 1.0 as well. There's a guy on here that actually ran the 2.0 in reverse, meaning left on right side and vice versa. He had a lot of success on carpet, not recommended for asphalt. So try that as well.
As for camber, front should be 0, rear try reducing it to -1
01-18-2015 | 03:59 PM
#1658
Tryy recommendations incrementally and see what works. First I would address the front.. Reduce droop and go to 50 cst oil. Then test it. Then adjust camber, test it. Then try different rear toe
02-02-2015 | 02:21 AM
#1659
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 328
From: the Netherlands
Hi guys,
how long are your shocks?!? I fitted what I believe are 50746 shocks to my car, which I thought were 50mm ones. Now I have fitted 50mm TRF dampers to my TT-01 racer, these supposedly are also 50mm, but they looked shorter. So I compared:
Sorry for the crappy phone pic, it does not do close up very well. The TRF ones are indeed 50mm, the plastic 50746 (if that is what they are) measure 55. I measure centre to centre of the mounting holes. The shorter dampers also compress further, fully compressed the TRFs are 2,5mm shorter than the plastic ones.
Cheers,
Hugo
how long are your shocks?!? I fitted what I believe are 50746 shocks to my car, which I thought were 50mm ones. Now I have fitted 50mm TRF dampers to my TT-01 racer, these supposedly are also 50mm, but they looked shorter. So I compared:
Sorry for the crappy phone pic, it does not do close up very well. The TRF ones are indeed 50mm, the plastic 50746 (if that is what they are) measure 55. I measure centre to centre of the mounting holes. The shorter dampers also compress further, fully compressed the TRFs are 2,5mm shorter than the plastic ones.
Cheers,
Hugo
02-02-2015 | 07:47 AM
#1661
M06 vs. 1/10 mini reg's
Have any of you guys had trouble with class rules?
I just bought an M06-R chassis second-hand, assuming any Tamiya-mini would be legal in class regulation. Then, looking into it further, I have run across several RC internet sites listing only FWD or 4WD chassis as allowable under rules...
I expect the RWD to be more difficult to set up and drive, but enjoy doing things a little differently, and expect with practice to be competitive.
I just bought an M06-R chassis second-hand, assuming any Tamiya-mini would be legal in class regulation. Then, looking into it further, I have run across several RC internet sites listing only FWD or 4WD chassis as allowable under rules...
I expect the RWD to be more difficult to set up and drive, but enjoy doing things a little differently, and expect with practice to be competitive.
02-02-2015 | 08:07 AM
#1662
Have any of you guys had trouble with class rules?
I just bought an M06-R chassis second-hand, assuming any Tamiya-mini would be legal in class regulation. Then, looking into it further, I have run across several RC internet sites listing only FWD or 4WD chassis as allowable under rules...
I expect the RWD to be more difficult to set up and drive, but enjoy doing things a little differently, and expect with practice to be competitive.
I just bought an M06-R chassis second-hand, assuming any Tamiya-mini would be legal in class regulation. Then, looking into it further, I have run across several RC internet sites listing only FWD or 4WD chassis as allowable under rules...
I expect the RWD to be more difficult to set up and drive, but enjoy doing things a little differently, and expect with practice to be competitive.
"Legal chassis platforms: M03, M05, M05 V2 and M06 "
02-03-2015 | 11:11 AM
#1663
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 78
Gear diff, what weight oil are you using?
Anyone running an oil filled gear diff? If yes, what weight oil are you using?
I've searched back and found a few references to the 3racing diff, mentioning that the kit oil is way too heavy. Someone put 30wt in, but I couldn't find any follow ups.
And a big thanks to Raman. I copied the setup you posted and my car was easy to drive (almost perfect). I'm hoping that a slightly thicker rear diff might help with braking.
I've searched back and found a few references to the 3racing diff, mentioning that the kit oil is way too heavy. Someone put 30wt in, but I couldn't find any follow ups.
And a big thanks to Raman. I copied the setup you posted and my car was easy to drive (almost perfect). I'm hoping that a slightly thicker rear diff might help with braking.
02-03-2015 | 11:18 AM
#1664
Breaking with RWD is not easy. I have my EPA set to 25% and it still make the car swap ends. I don't think the diff will help. Your best bet would be to use drag brake on your ESC if it has it.
I find that I don't really need brakes. I let off for a second before entering the turn and then go back to low to mid throttle on.. Car rolls right through turn.
I find that I don't really need brakes. I let off for a second before entering the turn and then go back to low to mid throttle on.. Car rolls right through turn.
