Thanks.
But I cannot seem to load the pdfs. Anyone else having issues, or is it at my end as usual? :-)

Thanks!
I'm a sucker for information, so that would be brilliant!
I think I know how to do it, though. But you are probbably better than me :-)

Ok my question is now answer by my self

Muchmore X-Gear Springs, read this on Marcs Facebook site. He uses in front Pink and Silver in rear.

X-Gear

Pink = "2.6" = 260gf/mm, close to yokomo yellow (according to petitrc chart)
Silver = "2.5" = 250gf/mm, close to yokomo blue

That is an interesting point. Wonder if tapping the screw holes before actually putting in the screw would help with some materials. I know having a vertical drill press or mill worth it. You would want the the tapping to be as square as possible.

Some knowledge of other TRF cars seems to be needed to recognize some of the parts. I own TRF 417 and TRF 419, but NOT 416 or 418. So, I see the setup sheet mentions two different "Front Upright" as either 416 or 418. So, the question is "what is the difference, which one comes in the 419 kit?"
Thanks. I'd share my experience for my first day racing the 419 only to say it felt very stable and was fun to drive.

The 418 ones have different mounting postitions for the steering arms, they are the ones included in the TRF419 kit.

Waste of time again TRF topics-style. The hole being formed all the way it will guide the tapping screw along, but I wouldn't use any cutting tools on plastics, they remove too much material, they're for steel and metals in general. Plastic works by moving out of the way a bit and gripping to provide friction to hold screws in, not by being cut and tightening screws in.

Get some silicone oil in the hole before you use the screw to tap it all the way, back off the screw half a turn for each turn (or 1/2 in - 1/4 out).

Even better, use Xray diff screws - they're machine screws and you can pre-tap with a "normal" one (i.e. not countersunk which will take a larger standard hex which gives more purchase). Same procedure - oil, 1/2 in 1/4 out.

Thanks for responding. Now I wonder if I can standardize my spare parts and use the same 418 (54568) uprights on all of these cars:
417
419
TB04ProII

Older (two hole) uprights have the holes exactly either side of the new (418) type.

Just a FYI,

The Samix aluminum chassis weighs 101 grams (just the plate not including the provided battery stops) compared to the stock chassis at 71 grams.

Mike

I guess the new spring rates are still unknown.

I will try out the Black (Med) this Saturday at Tamiya.

Sorry i cant help but i will say that many of us were running HPI Silver's at Tamiya and liked them albeit on the 418. I know that doesn't answer your question. Good luck with the black ones. Let us know.

http://www.tamiya.com/japan/cms/tami...f20150109.html

That is awesome.

Took the 419 out tonight for the first time. First impression is awesome. No leaking diff or dampers. Had to make a few adjustments. I am not a pro but the car for me felt stable. The front end of the car felt better than my 418. I fealt the car steered more precise and went where i wanted it to go more so than my 418.

I like it.