I think it's a TIN coated as the JS Racing VOX and last version of the INNOVA.

I found out tat the crank without dlc coating wear up faster, 4gallon need replacement already, by d way, will gx2 silicone filled crank fit older gx series?

Does the GXII Plus 7-port have any balls, or is it more of a "smooth" buggy engine? My guess is the latter...

Also, what is the 2103 pipe like?

Eyeing a combo on auction.. But only interested in grunty truggy engines.. (The old 7-port was pretty good as I recall...)

Or would the Cera be better suited to truggy?

How about the Pro .25 for truggy? I think Shane told me that was a great engine for truggy.

The Champion might be a good choice as well and you can get them at a pretty reasonable cost here in the US.

Hey guys. Its been a loooong time lol. I have a brand new Go GX II 5port for sale. It has a used head on it though. Let me know if you are interested. Taking offers

Will gx2 crankshaft fit old gxr crankcase? Old gxr crankshaft out of stock here

I used to run the gold head 7 port, fantastic buggy engine but I wouldnt consider it a truggy engine. I dont think there was a GxII plus model but I do see a 7 port on the Go site. I would think it is the same as the original 7 port.
I think the Cera or the Champion would be better for a truggy.

Rex

http://www.ebay.de/itm/2014-GO-21-GX...item233dcff73c

A friend purchased a Champion motor for our national champs, even after a fare bit of running in the motor was still too tight and kept locking up.
why do GO produce such overly tight P/S matches?..it's just so hard on the rod.

Are you sure the pinch was too tight and it wasn't the piston impacting the cylinder head very slightly? That *can* happen if the cylinder head isn't shimmed enough.

The Go engines have always came pretty tight but I think they are even tighter now and I consider them way too tight. I recommend lapping the ones I sell for easier break in.

Rex

My engine was also very tight, had to use a screw driver on the flywheel a fair few times to get the piston unstuck, that was with my modified GX5-R Godzilla engine that had a matched piston & sleeve, pre-heating makes a big difference, but for the first few tanks I was having trouble because I could only pre-heat to 160F so decided to keep the engine going & run a few tanks together instead of just one, saved alot of stuffing around & probably saved my starter box from stuffing up completely as well. Slightly loosening the glow plug made things a little easier too.

It occurs to me that it may not be the pinch is too tight, but that the pinch zone is fairly tall, thus creating the same amount of total resistance, but for a different reason than people suspect. They might be doing this to try to ensure the engine will maintain a good seal long after the piston has worn-down enough that a comparable engine with a shorter pinch zone would be suffering from leakdown.

I think the matched piston/sleeve in mine is done for that reason, to help maintain a better seal after run in, my engine has no pinch & without a glow plug, turns over easily, put a glow plug in, turn it over & you can feel good compression.

The GX5 and the R version were great motors, and even better once Mark had done his thing on them, I also had GX7Rs and a MM66 the black head version, very fast!
Those motors had the fit from new just right, quite tight for the first 5 tanks then they started to come good, any motor that is still locking up after a few litres is just too un matched for a factory std fit, i'd hate to try and start one cold if you had no way of pre-heating.