Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (26)
I posted the mod on the nation. Raising the brace will help reduce/ eliminate any chassis preload that may occur by just adding o rings to the top. It let's the top of the brace truly float rounds the screws. Shim it just high enough to allow you to slip the o ring under the top (a few thousandths less is ok). Only tighten the screw enough so the are all touching. No need to CLAMP them down.
Kicked some TLR ass today!
One guy drove mine and said he was selling his 22 2.0 tonight and ordering one Monday lol...
One guy drove mine and said he was selling his 22 2.0 tonight and ordering one Monday lol...
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
first race with the b5 rm went pretty well. round 1 i ran 21 laps in 6:15 and round 3 i ran 21 laps in 6:01. i qualified 10th out of 16. i was the only b5 rm in the whole field, almost everyone else ran mid motor. indoor medium traction and great competition. i started 2nd in the b-main. i got turned around in the first corner and fell to the back of the pack. i fought my way through the field back to second place and that's where i finished. made some changes to the rear end that helped.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
what's the opinion on the losi "low frequency" shock springs? are they good?
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I have run both. IMO the AE springs are just as good
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
So by doing this you're sacrificing forward bite..
Take turnbuckles off and steering is flawless put the front left turnbuckle on and it's still good but I put the right turnbuckle on and its binding on the ball up connected to the c-hub. The ball ends are the right way and everything is measured to the standard setup what am i missing?
http://youtu.be/yzYhq7qFXxA
http://youtu.be/yzYhq7qFXxA
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
Take turnbuckles off and steering is flawless put the front left turnbuckle on and it's still good but I put the right turnbuckle on and its binding on the ball up connected to the c-hub. The ball ends are the right way and everything is measured to the standard setup what am i missing?
http://youtu.be/yzYhq7qFXxA
http://youtu.be/yzYhq7qFXxA
Thanks god for the dremel haha thanks for the response next time I'll read before I speak, all is smoothe now
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
Hey guy's does the b5m like the 2.2's or the 2.4's..? thanks in advance.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Tech Master
iTrader: (46)
Tech Regular
Hi all,
After a long layoff I've decided to get back into racing and the B5R seems like the perfect fit for this old Team Associated fan boy
I've only managed to read 148 pages so far, so forgive me if this is the most annoyingly common question asked, but is there any rumours of an FT version on the horizon?
Thanks
Smokey
After a long layoff I've decided to get back into racing and the B5R seems like the perfect fit for this old Team Associated fan boy
I've only managed to read 148 pages so far, so forgive me if this is the most annoyingly common question asked, but is there any rumours of an FT version on the horizon?
Thanks
Smokey
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (40)
Who wants to try and adapt this to work?
I'm on the fence about picking one of these kits up. Have a B4.2 that I have working pretty well along with all the spares and kit that goes with it. I assume some or most of you ran the B4s, looking for some words on how the two compare. Would be going from rear motor B4.2 to mid motor B5. All the fastest guys at my track run mid motor cars, just haven't got the chance to drive one yet. Is it worth selling off the old setup?