Right you are, sorry guys, got my mind mixed up and was thinking the wrong way around.
The P3 would be better for the winter months then? And the O'Donnell 97t for the summer time?

For me I'll go with P4 "above 25c" as advice commonly says, obviously if the temp is 27c I'm still going to run the P3, but once we get into what is clearly more then I swap for a P4. If you're having any problems at temps like 38-40C it might even be worthwhile to keep a P5 in your bag.

Personaly i have no experience with odonnel plug, but os is best to run for go engine n others taiwan engine. Maybe p5 when u run more than 25% nitro. As long as u dont blow a plug, p3 is best in terms of response n easier to tune/idle

I've been using the P4 for a fair while in my engine & they work great, I don't change to P3's for cooler weather as there isn't really a need for it, the P4's have worked well in any weather. I did start with the P5's because thats what my engine builder said worked best in my engine, or a Nova #6 medium plug (not sure on exact name), I guess they are meant to be similar in heat range or something. Also, when I went from P5 to P4, there was no difference in engine temp, it stayed around the same temp range when testing them, same day & same weather conditions.
Main reason I went to the P4 was because a warmer plug is meant make the tuning window slightly better/wider & the P5 plugs don't seem to be as widely available here like the P4's.
Been using them in my brothers Reds 5R TE2 & they have worked well so far with that to.

Cool thanks for the info guys. Only asked about p3 as I have a bunch of them for my ninja. Might invest in some p4s as well.
I think I had p4 and p3 mixed up in my head too, was thinking the wrong way around.

For now I'll get my new head button and stick with the O'Donnell as I still have a few of those too.

Cheers

I am stocked up on Go engines! GxII and GxII plus and combo's with a pipe, great to be selling Go again. Thanks to Richard at Bellgate!

Rex

Nice

Welcome back Rex.

Hi guys, im Felix, driver for GO Engines in Malaysia. Ive been running GO since 2012. Currently holding the national champion title for year 2013, 8th in FEMCA 2014. Its a bit of a shame to ask, but im at a dead end.

Whats the runtime are you guys getting?. Im comparing the runtime cuz im only getting barely even 7 minutes. With the previous GX5RHO I could get upto 9 minutes avg at 8.45.

With the new engine, its nowhere close to the runtime ive got from the previous engine. The power band is definitely stronger, as well as the top end, it never ends, lol.

But with just 6.30 a tank, im refuelling 1-2 more compared to others, and its a disadvantage for me in the 1 hour finals. Ive ran this engine since it was released this year, 6 races with it but I still couldnt figure out a solution to the runtime.

Im hoping you guys with more experience in engines in terms of mechanical and technical expertise could help me out. Im just horrible when it comes to technical.

Hi felix, u r legend in malaysia, i had 1 but not yet break in. Can u share the setup u runin?
1. Pipe (efra 2103)
2. Venturi (7.5mm)
3. Fuel (techlube)
4. Clutch spring (.9)
5. Plug (os p3?)
I guess it easier to pin point the problem with the setup revealed.

Im no legend, just a driver that loves racing. (Excludes cleaning and setting)

Here is what im running.
1. Pipe
a. 2103, strong mid and very good top end. A slight dead band on the initial torque, a really small band. Can be a lil too much torque.
b. 2071, lots of torque, top end is limited.
c. JS Wolf cant remember the efra num. Smooth power band, but engine isnt so stable on idle.
d. 2060, nice n smooth power band.

2. Venturi, ive tried 6-8 mm. Response and power band effected, not much on runtime.

3. Fuel is techlube 25

4. 4 shoe clutch with 2x 1.0 n 2x0.9 springs.

5. P3 and P4 works. P4 seems to have better idle and suits the engine for malaysia temp n humidity.

Thanks for sharing

Hi Felix,

That sort of run time points to a tuning issue, most likely bottom end needle.
Check your idle gap is only .5mm to .7mm and that you don't have a rich bottom end compensating for an overly large idle gap.
With the long low speed needle on the GO carbs, the bottom end needle controls fuel flow right through the power band, so if your rich here - no run time.

If you can get a hold of a Werks 2058 pipe, run this on your GXII Plus. You will be amazed at the difference from the the stock 2103 and other pipes you have tried. More power all around, and increased run times.
Guys here running that pipe on the GXII Plus are seeing 8.5 min to 9 min tanks no problem.

If your only running 25% fuel, you can play around with shim stack too. This will increase power and run time a little.
Drop out .1mm or .2mm of head shims and see what difference that makes (tuning window will be slightly decreased).
These engines are traditionally reasonably low compression designs, but if you start blowing plugs, revert back to stock shim stack.

Try the tune and pipe first though

Actually i find go engine will have better run time using Novarossi carb 24069 which i run at the moment, .5 shim stack. But if running hot whether say 30c above, p4 will be good. Thats my opinion

Check out the latest GO 28R car gas engine test video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgUSWgZT1NA

There is nothing wrong with the stock GO carb - people just struggle to get their head around tuning the long low speed needle set up that's all.
The Nova carb I suspect has the traditional short needle lsn, which tunes like other traditional carbs.
Needle settings for the long needle carb (particularly hsn settings) are quite different, as the carb works "differently" in its fuel delivery method.
It just takes a better understanding of what's going on inside the carb.
We have written many tuning guides way back in this thread on these carbs.
Once tuned correctly they run perfectly with good power and economy.
Search up "average woman tune" and "garden hose analogy", they might bring up some of the tuning threads from a couple of years ago.