The problem with wider hexes , is you reach a point where you don't have enough threads on the axle to hold the wheel nutt. Also I find the slash rears are very wide right at the ROAR limit and only certain bodies would fit without rubbing. When I ran the +3 wheels in front I found I had more steering, but the SC6 has plenty of steering and I liked the stability of the wider slash rear wheels.

What are you guys running, rear or mid motor and why? I run mid and really like it. A lot more corner speed, jumps really level and is easier to drive. But 80% of the racers in the stock SC class run rear motor. I am really tempted to try rear motor. I ran my rear motor Blitz last weekend and it felt pretty good, but it is not in the same class as the SC6.

Shark, could you put the end of a calipers down into the hex from the back side of the wheels and see what the offset is? I get 35mm on a scte wheel. And if I believe a +3 is like 28mm.

Yup that's what it was I'm actually running a RT6. I just built it and went by the instructions of 7mm spacing in the spring.

When I was trying to find wheels for my SC6 I did an informal test to get a baseline for wheel offsets. Now keep in mind this is not an official (how the manufactures measure it) but just something I did to give me an idea on how different wheels compare. I took a 1.5mm CF bar and laid it across the back of the wheel (rim) then I took a caliper, placed it on the CF bar and measured from there to the bottom of the wheel hex.

Keep in mind these measurements include the CF bar which is 1.5mm thick.

Slash front = 24mm
Slash rears = 27mm
SC10 +3 = 32mm
SC10 = 35mm
Losi SCTE = 36.5mm

So the Slash fronts have the most offset and the SCTE the least. The Slash rears seem to work the best, the Losi wheels are way narrower (9.5mm) and the +3 wheels are about 5mm narrower.

Losi makes these extended wheel hexes, that might work on the rear because there is a lot of axle threads, but up front I don't think you would have enough axle thread to screw on a wheel nut. And even if you did get them to work you open another can of worms by pushing the center line of the wheel way outside of where it rotates around the kingpin, which will increase tire scrub. That is the reason many manufactures went to zero offset wheels, to get the center line of the wheel right over the kingpin (pivot point). I remember the old Ofna 1/8 truggies, these used wheels with a lot of offset, then a few years later changed there front geometry so they could use zero offset wheels to get the centerline over the kingpin, and people were really upset because they had tons of the older offset wheels.


Losi extended wheels hexes.

Thanks man. It's crazy now seeing the numbers to think I always ran scte offset on my sc10 and loved it while everyone insisted you have to run +3 . Any measurements on what the kyosho wheel measures or written anywhere what kyosho says to use?

So you measured backspacing (distance from inside wheel edge to mounting surface). Offset is the distance from wheel centerline to mounting surface. With positive offset being when the mounting surface is on the inside of the centerline and negative being on the outside of the centerline.

This method is probably the best way to tell difference from wheel to wheel though.

Absolutely true, I guess I should not have used the term offset. I just wanted a quick reference number for several different wheels and measuring from the back edge of the rim to the hex mounting surface (back space) is easier.

So anyone have any luck with a good MM shock setup yet for indoor high-bite? I tried the new 4-hole front tower this weekend and it did help with the front end roll but I still have not found the sweet spot. My SCR-SP was planted and I'm having a hard time with this MM SC6 to get it to feel "right" for my driving style. It seems like we have to stiffen this rig up so much to take out the roll but then lacks the ability to absorb small ruts/bumps. Currently running 2x1.6 w/35 wt (losi) orange springs front, 4x1.4 w/30 wt (losi) and red springs rear.

I need to get some more pistons to test but those were the only ones I had plus stockers of course.

Let me know what you guys have had luck with!

you're probably gonna have to go D-in / D-in in the rear......then with the battery back....you can probably try like a gold rear spring and a red front spring.....thats probably what my first stab at a MM set up will be.

By the way...roll isn't a bad thing.

Ryan Maifield elected to NOT run sway bars on high traction tracks like Cactus because the Roll makes the car easier to drive and allows you do predict when a traction roll is coming.......sway bars and high roll centers make the car drive much flatter / and more responsive which doesn't always mean faster or easier to drive. they also give no indication of an impending traction roll.

anyone came from a 22sct to he sc6?

based off these measurements we are talking 10m total width on the truck comparing slash rears and +3 ? that dont seem like a ton to me when i look at 5mm on the calipers. and didnt you say that slash rears are almost at max width and catch the body? i think im going to give some +3 a shot since they are here.