Tamiya mini cooper
Here are some shots of my MO5 V2 I tested yesterday at my local track.
I had some clearance issues using the MO5 alloy front knuckles,as they hit the gearbox cover, so havd ordered the thinner MO5 Ra knuckles to solve this.
The car was actually easy to drive and more forgiving than the previous model. I look forward to more testing and adjustment.
I had some clearance issues using the MO5 alloy front knuckles,as they hit the gearbox cover, so havd ordered the thinner MO5 Ra knuckles to solve this.
The car was actually easy to drive and more forgiving than the previous model. I look forward to more testing and adjustment.
Here are some shots of my MO5 V2 I tested yesterday at my local track.
I had some clearance issues using the MO5 alloy front knuckles,as they hit the gearbox cover, so havd ordered the thinner MO5 Ra knuckles to solve this.
The car was actually easy to drive and more forgiving than the previous model. I look forward to more testing and adjustment.
I had some clearance issues using the MO5 alloy front knuckles,as they hit the gearbox cover, so havd ordered the thinner MO5 Ra knuckles to solve this.
The car was actually easy to drive and more forgiving than the previous model. I look forward to more testing and adjustment.
Hi all,
I raced my m05 today with very limited success. It was extremely unstable and would roll, flip and tumble really easy. I'm after some tips.
This is my current setup for asphalt racing:
Tamiya m05
Hobbywing 13t combo
TRF shocks
Tamiya aluminium steering linkage.
Yeah racing gear diff
Front:
Tyres: Ride mc38 wheels and tires (club tyres)
Camber: stock
toe out: 2degrees
Shock oil: 45w
Spring: red
Rear:
Front:
Tyres: Ride mc32 wheels and tires (club tyres)
Camber: 2 degrees
toe in: 2 degrees
Shock oil: 45w
Spring: blue
Any advice?
I raced my m05 today with very limited success. It was extremely unstable and would roll, flip and tumble really easy. I'm after some tips.
This is my current setup for asphalt racing:
Tamiya m05
Hobbywing 13t combo
TRF shocks
Tamiya aluminium steering linkage.
Yeah racing gear diff
Front:
Tyres: Ride mc38 wheels and tires (club tyres)
Camber: stock
toe out: 2degrees
Shock oil: 45w
Spring: red
Rear:
Front:
Tyres: Ride mc32 wheels and tires (club tyres)
Camber: 2 degrees
toe in: 2 degrees
Shock oil: 45w
Spring: blue
Any advice?
I think the the first thing is to try reversing the springs. If you are using stock kit springs red is soft and blue is hard. I run the hard blue in the front and medium yellow in the rear. So try running harder spring in the front and softer springs in the rear first. It sounds like you are getting to much front traction and your issue could be as simple as reversing the springs?
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Since you got a lot of responses, This is the last bit of advice. Most Mini set ups are integrated so one thing works with another. The worst thing you can do is take a little bit from here and a little bit from there.
If you take a close look at Calvin's and my set ups, they are very similar. My suggestion would be to copy Calvin's set up as it is more detailed than what I suggested and would require more work. I made of couple of suggestions that would work if you used Calvin's set up as your base.
In any case, do it all. Too often, what will happen is someone will do most of what is suggested, and wonder why it didn't work. For example, if you used Calvin's set up and didn't use the sway bar, it wouldn't work nearly as well.
If you take a close look at Calvin's and my set ups, they are very similar. My suggestion would be to copy Calvin's set up as it is more detailed than what I suggested and would require more work. I made of couple of suggestions that would work if you used Calvin's set up as your base.
In any case, do it all. Too often, what will happen is someone will do most of what is suggested, and wonder why it didn't work. For example, if you used Calvin's set up and didn't use the sway bar, it wouldn't work nearly as well.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 376
From: Valencia, CA
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 30
From: Redmond,Washington
I am working on putting together my new M05 Chassis. I have an extra set of TRF shocks NIB that are the touring car version. I have noticed that some guys have used them before. So what do i do to these to make them work? I am hoping i can use these
Tech Elite

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Also, the piston rods or shock shafts should be 28mm in length. I suspect that the set you have are the right length. For a long shock build to 58mm or 57.5mm. for a short shock build to 56.5 or 56. Which goes where depends a lot on the motor you're using.
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 290
From: Australia
I took my car down to the track today and played with a few settings. It is now drivable again. I switched the front and rear springs around, so it had blue on the front and red on the rear, I also lowered it a little bit all round. It was instantly better. I then swapped the reds on the rear out for yellows. This was not a good move. It became more skittish. So I swapped them back around.
It was still bouncing/jumping through the corners a little bit but I broke a rim before I could do anymore testing. Next time I am going to try putting the yellows on the front.
The car is drivable again thats the main thing.
It was still bouncing/jumping through the corners a little bit but I broke a rim before I could do anymore testing. Next time I am going to try putting the yellows on the front.
The car is drivable again thats the main thing.



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