+1

Thanks for the replies. I have purchased the stock trf418 dcj cvd for my tb04

Regarding the suspension blocks... Am I correct in assuming A/A is widest track where as F/F is narrowest?

No, the blocks increase in width as you go up: A - F (widest).
It's the X blocks that get narrower as you go down: X - XD (narrowest).

- Jose

Did you get to run them yet? Well I have to agree with you, I broke 4 chubs today running indoors on carpet. New style chubs. Light taps if that. My BD7 would of kept going. I will say it might have been that I haven't cut my axles down to the wheel nut yet but still... Super Fragile. Tossed on the old style and no problems. I dunno. I'm staying away from them when racing indoors! Gonna have to give Square a try. Maybe whip out the Dremel if I have to.

Does anyone run the metal gears 54428 in their diff's for the 418?

Tomorrow. Mine are breaking even with the axles ground down flush with the wheel nuts. It's really disappointing the new bits are even worse. They need to be 2x as thick down at the bottom around the hinge pin area. This is where they always break, and the exact spot other brands without this problem thicken theirs up.

Oh, sorry, I forgot what thread I was in. What I meant to say is that you suck and you should stop hitting things, the car is perfect.

The C-hubs have always been a problem...and the new reinforced c-hubs are even worse. I know there a lot of really great drivers in this thread that never hit shit, but I can tell you first hand that it is a problem. I really like the car, but honestly it needs to be fixed or replaced with something tougher.

They beefed up the arms on the 418 and ignored the one area that needed to be fixed. The arms were fine...this is why it is important to have drivers on the team that are not 100% pro drivers. Obviously on a curb track with no boards the c-hubs are not an issue. But on smaller tighter tracks with boards it is an issue.

Honestly it is the only issue with the car, but it is a big one!

In Mod, yes.... the carbon/plastic main gears flare out on the back side of the gear around the cross pin from the torque. This happens gradually after a period of time. It also changes the mess and makes the diff very, very tight.

That said, in Spec class they maybe okay….

I'm in 13.5 blinky - no bother.

I have 2-3 sets, still on my first after about a half season. If they keep wearing well I wont bother.

Rumours are a new diff is around as prototype as well.....

I run the metal gears in my diff for 17.5 blinky, but I've also ran the car outdoors with 4.0t. I see no issue with them but I'm looking forward to the new style diff.

LOL on the chubs @syndrome. I do remember some ETS races where Viktor broke a chub. So maybe they'll have a revised set for the 418X. (Wishful thinking.)

You don't need metal gears even in mod. Just use the steel cross shafts (the plastic one is a shocker) and shims behind the satellite gears and they'll last forever.

That is unless you need your diff to weigh a ton.

Shimming the satellite gears also helps with getting some of the notchyness out too

Seems like maybe I bent both 3 racing chubs today with some solid hits. Running the Yeah chubs now with the bearings and they seem to be holding up better.

Is there a list of the new style suspension block part numbers and sizes? I have the old list but am looking for the new similar to what came on the 418.