Most everyone I have seen runs the normal type shocks on the TA05. (Well at least the fast guys that I have seen run this car.) So unless you are running an IFS body, it will be easier/better in the long run for setup and for people to help you with the car with standard shock layout.

I understand what you're saying, but not what I wanted to hear

Im thinking of running USGT this year. How do I get the tires to fit flush on a 200mm body? What wheel and offset do I need.

The offset you are looking for is 3mm to 6mm, depending on the chassis and body you want to run. Tamiya 24mm rims w/2mm offset may be your best bet, handling wise. HPI makes 26mm rims with more offset, but the Ride Spec tires do not work/handle as well when mounted on 26mm rims.

@Stro3579,
What chassis are you running? There are some tricks specific to particular chassis that we might be able to share.

The IFS is cool, but just not easy to adjust or get a setup for... If you are not great at car setup yourself (I am not) then just spend that $15-20 on the blue crack parts for a front shock tower.

Travis simply went for the Russian IFS upgrade. It is expensive, but effective.

Ok im not knocking anyone with this statement, but what is the obsession with having the tires fit flush to the body. I tried it with my LFA body and found the handling horrible push on the front and loose on the rear. I couldnt get enough mechanical roll due to the track width being so wide. Went back to a narrower set - up and instantly found traction. It didnt look that different from the wide to narrow set-up. Especcially on the track, appearance wise you really couldnt tell at all.

I like to leave the car narrow with a 200mm body, to protect the front tires. It keeps the car from rolling over when I cut a corner too close. If the tire sticks out beyond the body when turning, it can "ride up" on a flapper, and the car goes full turtle. The wide body reduces the chances of this happening.

I don't leave the car narrow because I'm lazy (although I am, indeed, lazy); on my old XRay T1 chassis, I can adjust the width to anything I want with just the twist of a wrench. That's a great feature.

Yokomo bd7 2014

So don't run anything wider then a 2mm offset on a 24mm wheel? Correct?

Stro,
I have a TC4, so I can't help you with widening a Yokomo. With the Protoform Camaro being 197mm wide, you would only be 1.5mm short per side with 2mm offset wheels. I'll have to defer to others on handling changes with changing the track/width.

Correct.

I gotta question regarding FDR. My VTA car is running 3.3 and dialed for the track I run. I'm getting into USGT and was wondering if I should maintain a FDR of 3.3 or should I try 3.2/ 3.4? I'm running against RCGT cars with 17.5 VS. my 21.5 as final consideration. I'm basically just shooting for a start up FDR and will adjust for heat afterwards. The track is roughly 100x70. Thanks in advance 8 )

Personally I'd go out for practice and run as is and see if you can stay closeish to some of your competition then adjust down to 3.2 or maybe 3.0 Sadly with the difference in motor your never going to keep up down a straightaway no matter what your gearing if your track is tight and technical you may be able to keep decent pace but if your track is flowy your going to get left behind pretty quickly.