Look at that, its your lucky day, you can buy a nice set of C hubs for that

Hey Adam, I think the Serpent aluminum c-hubs may work with that car and the have good clearance for the DCJ as well. They have provisions for the lower setscrew to retain the pin. If we had a Tamiya here I could check it out, but none to speak of here. Maybe someone there has a S411 or even just a plastic c-hub to see if it would work, then if so, go to the aluminum ones.

If this site allowed us to like posts, I would like this one and the register an alias so I could like it again.

Interesting, it's certainly worth a try. Have a part number handy?

Thanks again for the responses. I'll report back with my progress.

Also, here's a tidbit to share since nobody has mentioned it. I don't care for the Samix chassis on high grip carpet. The stock was a lot more consistent for me in mod.

Thanks for the tip.

(Runs to remove the new style c hubs before Turing a single lap)

No, really, thanks for the tip.

Since I had some X-ray spares on hand. I did some measurements.

The stock TRF418 C-hub is 11.9mm wide at the hinge pin point. The X-ray T3/T4 C-hub is 12.3mm wide at the hinge pin point. If shaven down, yes, it will fit in a TRF418 arm. Drive axle opening (for DCJ) is much larger than stock TRF418 C-hub so don't see any issues there.

Top to bottom of TRF418 steering knuckle is 21.6mm. Top to bottom of T3/T4 steering knuckle is 20.5mm. So you will need to shave the TRF418 steering knuckle shorter to fit the X-ray C-hub.

Height wise for the ballstud hole on top of the C-hub is very, very close. It would be very easy to retain almost the identical geometry.

Other interesting facts, stock TRF418 C-hub is 2.3 grams, X-Ray T3 C-hub is 3.3 grams.

Sorry, if Dans measurements are correct, and I don't doubt them, Serpent c-hubs won't work either.

Why do you keep buying Tamiya when ALL you ever do is complain about the durability of the c-hubs and the quality of various other components?

Just buy the damned XRAY if that's what you need to finish races on your track.

I've been successfully running XRAY and AMX for the past 4 years now with no durability issues to speak of. I was feeling bored and burned out, so I decided to pick up a cheap 418 from Tower ($409 shipped!) to see how things had changed. I don't regret it.

I saw that Tamiya released new "reinforced" c-hubs and figured they finally realized it was a critical flaw and did something about it. To my surprise, the 418 is really good on carpet. It feels like where the 416X left off. As if the abomination of the 417 series never happened. Sadly, the c-hub thing is still an issue, all these years later, even after the reinforcing.

My other big gripe, the gear diff is better with red o-rings and the 417V5 changes. It's encouraging to see the team had a new gear diff design they were testing.

People getting defensive or acting like little bitches when someone brings legitimate criticism to a platform doesn't do anybody any favors. It's important that these companies know the shortcomings of their products in the hands of mere mortals on a variety of different track types. Ignoring this sort of feedback, or having people wave their hands and pretend there isn't a problem is precisely why these kits are collecting dust on the shelves in spite of being a very good car.

Ha. And I am pretty sure you can bring the evil Tamiya government of the toy car world to its knees as well if you stop buying their $5 C-hubs!

Well, thanks to those of you that provided actual feedback. I've got 3Racing and Yeah aluminum c-hubs on the way, I'll report back at some point on my progress. I might try the XRay as well, though the different size hinge pin means drilling out the arms which I'm not super excited about.

I've enjoyed my visit here in the Land of 1,000 Nuthuggers. I'm going to head back into the real world where people actually race their toy cars instead of just talking about them.

Hey, you're welcome. You know where to find us next time you need political asylum.

Or run out of C-hubs

Syndrome I wouldn't drill the c hub I would buy a ream and ream the hole out it would turn out more precise.

You would use the same Tamiya hinge pins, should not be any drilling required. You have to shave material off the Xray C-hub if you want it fitted to 418 arms.

I went from an X-Ray T4 '13 to TRF418. The 418 is an immediately better handling car, even on lower traction asphalt. One of the things I noticed is maybe this is attributed to how much less unsprung weight there is compared to an X-ray. All the X-ray suspension parts are beefy, but they weigh a lot too compared to the BD7/418 counterpart. I plan to stick with Tamiya parts on my car.