looking to upgrade my electronics on my team associated b5. i drove a buddys buggy with the orion setup and i loved the breaks on it but it seems like all the fast guys run lrp stuff and ive also heard trakpower is another good option what do you guys recommend? witch has the smoothest power,break and easiest tunability.

I've heard pretty much nothing but good things about the first two, not really heard much about the trakpower. the orion and lrp are fairly popular esc's in the pro segment, and a lot of club racers use them aswell, so either should be fine, again not sure about the trakpower

The downside about the lrp is that it only does sensored motors. The Orion does both.

I switched from LRP to Orion after during a Final I had a sensor cable break after a hit, and the car stopped, with the Orion it would have shifted to sensorless and allowed you to finish.

That was enough for me!

I think they are both going to be much for much in terms of performance. Both more capable than most of us need them to be and both capable of world championships etc.

The thing that swayed me was the lack of need for a setting box (another $70) for the LRP vs Orion and the ability to buy the LRP as a package with motor. Essentially, I got the flow works, USB and motor for the price of an R10 with the setting box.

Both manufacturers support them well with updates (you'll need a USB link for $30 with the LRP)

If you're running multiple cars (and multiples of the speedo) the setting box price is less of a factor.

I find the LRP works exceptionally well with their own motors too, even when just in blinky. My car is pretty damn quick at my track (in a straight line at least - ha!) and when we put my x20 in a mates car with a hobbywing speedy, he didn't get quite the same acceleration or top end. Different chassis and battery, so may have been other effects.

You can also look into the hobby wing v3.1 (essentially the same as the Orion) which is about 170, and the programming box (again, OEM for Orion) which is only 25 dollars.

Firmware is a big part of the story though, no?

And you can't run orion firmware on the hobbywing can you?

Not that the HW firmware is terrible or anything.

no, the orion software can't be used on the v3/3.1 hobby wing esc, but both are very close both in setup, and usage. Though i think the v2.1 software is actually closer to the orion software in the r10. something like the menu has a few more option.

firmware is certainly not going to make or break your race though.

you can plug the lrp flow to the computer to tune with it? ive heard from the local guys thats its only push button on the speedo its self. but if you can hook it up then i will for sure get the lrp!

All of the settings on the lrp are adjusted via the esc and the button/light setup. You can hook it to a computer to download new software, not to tune the software.

With the way Ryan Maifield went just recently I'd go with the Orion system. (but I do believe most of it was the driver).

Spot on.

Seems to be a love/hate thing in terms of tuning via PC or not. Personally I'd prefer not to have to bring a PC to the track!

Programming cards/boxes are "easier" than counting lights, but the inboard system is pretty darn easy - and for blinky you don't really need to mess with much anyway. That goes for both the speedos, the R10 can be programmed for blinky without the box also I understand.

As far as copying the pros, there is merit in that, but always remember they are paid! (or at the very least get the items for free)

There is stuff all between the three speedos (including the HW, not the track power) and you won't go wrong with any of them.

Choose the one that looks the best in your eyes, or the one that will fit your chassis best

yeah i think im gonna go with the lrp it just looks bad ass in my eyes!

That's as good a reason as any to split them in all honesty - especially when you know no better as you haven't tested back to back.

If you decide to redo your wiring and go all black like 90% of the field! I wouldn't run 10ga. It "sorta" fits and it can be done (I did it) but 12ga fits into the u tabs much, much better and you need to use a lot less heat to get a good solder joint.

I've gone back to 12ga now (last night in fact)