I have not tried it with other cars yet, but it is certainly where I would start.

The last time I let somebody else drive my car they really liked it. I think it's just who you ask.

It was interesting watching the fast guy drive my car. After a few laps he started to get the hang of it. They weren't running the lap counter so I couldn't tell how his laps compared with my car versus his. Honestly I think he hated my radio more than my car. I can't blame him. I hated my radio a little bit after using his for a few minutes!

He was faster than you with yalls cars switched because you were not able to drive his car even close to its potential. Each person would drive the other's car at 80% potential till he becomes more acquainted, he was driving yours at 80% but you probably couldnt drive his past 65%.

After few laps your car is more forgiving and he can drive it harder at 110%, whereas his car was difficult for you to get the hang of it. You were not able to drive his car on edge which his setup was meant for. His car requires to always be on throttle, you have to have a bond with the radio and the throttle feel and have constant throttle, or else the drag break and weight transfer will break traction. The back has to remain under load not to break loose.

Carrying around an extra 1/4 pound....

In all fairness, he was running a saddle pack and I was running a shorty.

By my math, that is less than an ounce.

Might want to check your math

Wow, must be what they say is correct. First thing to go is the memory. Getting old is going to suck.

While raising the ride height does raise the CoG, link length does not move CoG. Did you meant to write roll center instead of CoG in this paragraph?

If you look at the bits in the brackets it means if you shorten the link and move it into the next hub hole. Yup you are right I made a typo. Its always fun wording this stuff!

OK, I've done some searching but I cannot find the answer... I have a theory, but would like to hear from the Tuning gods..

On the JQ or Tekno, you have the option of running the lower pivot point on the rear hub either in or out. Effectively making the A-Arm shorter. While testing the Tekno, I left the camber links the same but moved the pin to the inner position. It made the buggy really stable.

While looking at the rear, this moves the pivot point of the lower outer A-Arm inside that of the upper outer link. Effectively creating a really long upper link, thereby gaining all the properties given with running long links.

If I moved the upper link in towards the pivot point of the lower rear hub, what effect would I expect, the same on the tower?

In regards to chassis roll, how much is too much? Are the cars supposed to remain essentially flat through a corner, given perfect track conditions? How would this aid in correcting snap traction roll?

Any thoughts on the you tube videos showing roll using extreme camber link setup?

I've balanced my SC10 using Fred's methods and it's never been better! I'm just trying to fine tune it using camber adjustments now.

This is the greatest thread ever written in regards to setup and theory. I applaud you all....

I think each car with its design has an ideal sweet spot max chassis roll angle. The trick is to accomplish that perfect roll angle with each person's unique weight distribution, and each track's specific surface friction.

Totaly random measure just for example. Lets say the B4 sweet spot roll angle is 10°s but your track has high grip that causes your current setup to roll 15° you would need to change camber setting to resist roll to accomplish 10°.

Lets say your track has low traction, the car spins out at 6° before reaching 10°. You will need to set camber to have less roll resistance to accomplish the sweet spot traction roll angle.

Now if the manufacturers could give us that sweetspot roll angle it would save us lotsa trial and error initially.

Cars don't need to remain flat through a corner. A car that stays flat attempts to make the majority of its traction right away as the suspension quickly resists chassis roll. Looking at the front end of a car, that would give you more initial steering and reduce it a bit on middle and exit. If you let the chassis roll more (longer link, raise the inside camber link mounting point, softer sway bar) you will start to gain traction more towards the middle of the turn as the chassis takes longer to roll over and exerts itself on that outside front tire. Try it once with your SC10. Try going to a longer link in front right after having run a shorter link (or vice versa). You will see the chassis roll more in the front and it will really start to dig in later than the short link does.

^^^^ This

Most of these settings are done for feel and the best lap times, usually a combination of both.
The only reason I would adjust for chassis roll, is if the car seems to take too long to recover in switch backs(too much), or if it is traction rolling(too little).

Don't forget, chassis roll (or pitch) front to back is just as important, but that isn't set as much with camber links as it is with anti squat, kick up, ride height and shock tuning.

All for the same reasons as chassis roll.