Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Tech Addict
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I bought a rtr rb6 some time back, also bought a rb5 sp for the shocks ball diff and universal. Question is after changing the dog bones for the rb5 universal the rear doesn't have or should I say have very little amount of droop. Is this the norm for you guys with the kit?
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I bought a rtr rb6 some time back, also bought a rb5 sp for the shocks ball diff and universal. Question is after changing the dog bones for the rb5 universal the rear doesn't have or should I say have very little amount of droop. Is this the norm for you guys with the kit?
Tech Addict
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The Rb6 runs very little droop. Probably the least I've seen used on any car. Not too worry though, it works. Not sure what they did in the design, but it works and works well. Just pay close attention when you look at different setup sheets, to see which arms (either the RB6 stock or the Rb5 flat 521-1 ones), shock ends (there's three you can use, short, med, and long (the ones listed as long on the package are actually the med ones), and the length of the shock shaft (usually in the 26-28mm range between the bottom of the shock and the top of the shock end).
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No worries bro. Was gonna so set screws and a thumb screw type thing but I just charge the battery in car for the outdoor season. For indoor I might have to charge in a lipo sack.
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Great, hopefully the extra 1.5deg of rear toe will improve things. I'll try more anti-squat as well. I have every front and rear spring except for the rear white and pink so that will have to wait. I may try playing with roll centers and shock mounting positions to reduce the relative roll stiffness at the back end in the interim.
Appreciate the help guys!
Appreciate the help guys!
Hopefully this will add some some grip to the buggy..
Cheers!!
Does anyone know the part number for a shock rebuild kit?
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Yes and No on that one.
Really depends on your shock setup (spring, oil, and piston selection). With the stock "kit" shock setup, I had chassis slap a lot unless I down sided the bugger jumps perfectly. Was a little concerned at first, then started playing with the shocks and they are much better now, but if I over shoot a landing far/bad enough I can get chassis slap. Come to think of it, I can get chassis slap out of just about any car/truck I've ever ran. LOL.
True the RB5 rear arms can net you more rear droop, but most guys I know and the top guys that I have got to ask about the RB5 arms all run those arms with the same kind of rear droop as the RB6 arms would run. Which is why the three different length shock ends come in real handy. Like I said, the RB6 likes very little droop when compared to other cars. Looks crazy, but it works.
Really depends on your shock setup (spring, oil, and piston selection). With the stock "kit" shock setup, I had chassis slap a lot unless I down sided the bugger jumps perfectly. Was a little concerned at first, then started playing with the shocks and they are much better now, but if I over shoot a landing far/bad enough I can get chassis slap. Come to think of it, I can get chassis slap out of just about any car/truck I've ever ran. LOL.
True the RB5 rear arms can net you more rear droop, but most guys I know and the top guys that I have got to ask about the RB5 arms all run those arms with the same kind of rear droop as the RB6 arms would run. Which is why the three different length shock ends come in real handy. Like I said, the RB6 likes very little droop when compared to other cars. Looks crazy, but it works.
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Great.. Thank you so much again.. Am setting up my electricals now.. Hopefully can be as neat as possible.. Running full size servo and a shorty pack and trying to shift the batt as far up to the front as possible..
Hopefully this will add some some grip to the buggy..
Cheers!!
Hopefully this will add some some grip to the buggy..
Cheers!!
So I've been trying to get more weight over the rear axle to increase forward traction but despite running a shorty servo and moving the battery as far back as possible the best I could get was 38%/62%. A local Pro running a mid-motor B5m on my track has had good success with and recommended a 36% / 64% split. I would have had to add 90g directly over the rear axle to achieve this on my RB6!
Naive as I was, I didn't realise that I could reduce the wheelbase by moving all rear suspension / hub shims to the rear! Reducing the wheelbase by 4mm and removing another 8g of mass from the front with Titanium Ball-studs, some drilling and more titanium screws / aluminium nuts got me to 36.7%/63.3%.
Then by putting 21g of brass onto the rear bumper I was able to get to 36% / 64%.
Now just need to add some mass under the battery (at the CoG) to get up to minimum weight! Can't wait to try it out at the track!
Naive as I was, I didn't realise that I could reduce the wheelbase by moving all rear suspension / hub shims to the rear! Reducing the wheelbase by 4mm and removing another 8g of mass from the front with Titanium Ball-studs, some drilling and more titanium screws / aluminium nuts got me to 36.7%/63.3%.
Then by putting 21g of brass onto the rear bumper I was able to get to 36% / 64%.
Now just need to add some mass under the battery (at the CoG) to get up to minimum weight! Can't wait to try it out at the track!