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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-24-2014, 06:34 AM
  #10516  
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Zylux I know what you are talking about even though mine comes from RM.
As soon as I changed to 3.5 rear toe the car changed I have also used white and going to give pink a try.

Also I recommend more anti-squat ~2 I did this to my RM and the car felt better again IMO
I ran my MM at our track and felt with these changes it would work on a medium type grip track. I just need to get the hangers to do so
Hope my input sort of helps you
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:53 PM
  #10517  
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Originally Posted by mourinho
Zylux - I experienced similar issues with the rear end spinning out on similar track conditions.
The thing that helped the most was loosening the diff, I had it far too tight from when I was running on carpet, then going to hardpack with dust it was all over the place.
Thanks mate, I'll try loosening the diff a little. Diff tightness is one area I'm fairly unclear about in terms of how it should feel on the bench so I may well have it too tight.
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:57 PM
  #10518  
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Originally Posted by KalEl63
Zylux I know what you are talking about even though mine comes from RM.
As soon as I changed to 3.5 rear toe the car changed I have also used white and going to give pink a try.

Also I recommend more anti-squat ~2 I did this to my RM and the car felt better again IMO
I ran my MM at our track and felt with these changes it would work on a medium type grip track. I just need to get the hangers to do so
Hope my input sort of helps you
Great, hopefully the extra 1.5deg of rear toe will improve things. I'll try more anti-squat as well. I have every front and rear spring except for the rear white and pink so that will have to wait. I may try playing with roll centers and shock mounting positions to reduce the relative roll stiffness at the back end in the interim.

Appreciate the help guys!
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:11 PM
  #10519  
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Anyone get those stupid pills stuck in the rear suspension holders. I tried to remove one with and of my hex and ended up putting a hole right threw it. Now I can't get it out. Don't want to spend another 20 bucks on the part
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:15 PM
  #10520  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
Anyone get those stupid pills stuck in the rear suspension holders. I tried to remove one with and of my hex and ended up putting a hole right threw it. Now I can't get it out. Don't want to spend another 20 bucks on the part
They sell the pills separately for like 5 bucks. Same thing happened to me too, but i ordered extra pills from the giddy up out of fear of losing them
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:44 AM
  #10521  
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Just use some grease when inserting them.
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Old 06-26-2014, 07:10 AM
  #10522  
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Has anybody confirmed the difference between the RTR chassis and the standard rb6 chassis? Are they the same with different annodizing or are there other differences?
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:52 AM
  #10523  
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Originally Posted by adubaz7
Has anybody confirmed the difference between the RTR chassis and the standard rb6 chassis? Are they the same with different annodizing or are there other differences?
Rtr is stamped I think and kit is milled. They are different different metals as well I believe.
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:12 PM
  #10524  
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I just cant' get on with it. The car drives so much better with the ESC in front of the battery. I have been playing with the ESC between the motor and battery but it's just not working. I'm going back to what works. I feel the car has better steering setup this way. Having the ESC next to the motor I have to add weight to the car which I don't like to get the traction I need. Am I crazy?
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:33 PM
  #10525  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
I just cant' get on with it. The car drives so much better with the ESC in front of the battery. I have been playing with the ESC between the motor and battery but it's just not working. I'm going back to what works. I feel the car has better steering setup this way. Having the ESC next to the motor I have to add weight to the car which I don't like to get the traction I need. Am I crazy?
Nope right on target from my perspective . I gather ur running a LW chassis? I also run my mid motor with shorty forwards, esc on the rt6 esc shelf, rx behind servo. Leaves enuff room to put a fan in front of the motor as well. Tonnes of steering. I found the car to jump bad with everything near the rear as well .
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Old 06-26-2014, 01:42 PM
  #10526  
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My car always runs best when I don't try things other people are doing.
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Old 06-26-2014, 02:13 PM
  #10527  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
I just cant' get on with it. The car drives so much better with the ESC in front of the battery. I have been playing with the ESC between the motor and battery but it's just not working. I'm going back to what works. I feel the car has better steering setup this way. Having the ESC next to the motor I have to add weight to the car which I don't like to get the traction I need. Am I crazy?
Yeah, if you are running out-door medium grip tracks then I think you need the weight as far back as possible. I run my shorty against the motor with a lightweight Tekin ESC in front as well as a KO-Propo shorty servo and I still only have a 38/62% weight distribution - which from what I'm told is still too front heavy for ideal handling on medium grip hard-packed tracks. I may even try the battery across the back of the motor instead of inline to see if I can shift the weight to the rear a bit more.
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:06 PM
  #10528  
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Nope right on target from my perspective . I gather ur running a LW chassis? I also run my mid motor with shorty forwards, esc on the rt6 esc shelf, rx behind servo. Leaves enuff room to put a fan in front of the motor as well. Tonnes of steering. I found the car to jump bad with everything near the rear as well .
nro, possible to clip a pix of your electronics layout?..
cheers!!
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:28 AM
  #10529  
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Anyone try red front springs yet? The AE Guys are running red and gold. 1.6s all around.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:33 AM
  #10530  
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I run Avid Red Springs. I have a hard time paying 20 bucks for springs. I have been tuning with the Avid's for a while. They are pretty great. I can't seem to find spring rates for any of the Kyosho springs. Avid Red Fronts are 3.3lb and noticeably stiffer then kyo pink.
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