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Old 06-12-2014 | 06:35 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
Pretty awesome, What printer and filament type are you using?

If I could justify the makerbot 2 cost to the wife I would be all over it. Very hard to convince her I need a 2k 3d printer just to print plastic parts.
I'm using a Solidoodle 2($500 when i bought it) and it runs ABS plastic. I bought the base model at first (bad idea), then added the heated print bed ($45) with kapton tape ($10), a 120W generic power supply ($15), mounted lexan sheets for a cover to hold the heat in ($25 off ebay), and created my own spool holder so the spool rotates on a ball bearing. At the time they had an expert model for $700 and that's basically what I have now for $600, witch is now the $600 Pro model they have. And right now that pro model is on sale for $500....lol oh well
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Old 06-12-2014 | 07:33 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by rc_dude
I'm using a Solidoodle 2($500 when i bought it) and it runs ABS plastic. I bought the base model at first (bad idea), then added the heated print bed ($45) with kapton tape ($10), a 120W generic power supply ($15), mounted lexan sheets for a cover to hold the heat in ($25 off ebay), and created my own spool holder so the spool rotates on a ball bearing. At the time they had an expert model for $700 and that's basically what I have now for $600, witch is now the $600 Pro model they have. And right now that pro model is on sale for $500....lol oh well
I've read the heated print bed is a good thing to have. I wounder what plastic type would be best suited for RC related prints. I know ABS has great flexibility and heat ratings but I've also seen some PLA prints and they look fantastic. I will admit I now little about the properties of either plastic.
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Old 06-12-2014 | 07:46 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
I've read the heated print bed is a good thing to have. I wounder what plastic type would be best suited for RC related prints. I know ABS has great flexibility and heat ratings but I've also seen some PLA prints and they look fantastic. I will admit I now little about the properties of either plastic.
The heated build plate is a must if your going to print anything over about 1" long...lol
And I'm not sure about the material properties either. But at school we have a printer that'll do lexan, nylon, and about 8 other materials that I forgot...lol
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Old 06-12-2014 | 09:17 AM
  #19  
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A lot can be done with just a dremel, drill, the right hardware, and a little bit of elbow grease.

Custom chassis for dex210 to optimize mid motor weight distribution (it's also lighter and stiffer, which is a bonus):


Center diff conversion for a dex410 utilizing the stock aluminum chassis:
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Old 06-12-2014 | 09:44 AM
  #20  
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Nice chassie! And I've made things with the drill press, grinder, and hand saw before too, but nothing for racing.
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Old 06-12-2014 | 05:32 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
@BMAN!!! You gotta post some of your 410BMan ride! Cmon!
Well some of you know that I did skids and +8 & +10 chassis for the 210. As well as center diff conversions for the 410....
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-cnc-8.jpg   Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-hd.jpg   Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-image-4-.jpg   Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-210rear1.jpg  
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Old 06-12-2014 | 05:35 PM
  #22  
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310..........My 2wd conversion for the 410!
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-310.jpg   Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-310a.jpg  
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Old 06-12-2014 | 05:42 PM
  #23  
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My 410........V5 and V5.2!
Attached Thumbnails Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-v5.jpg   Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-v51.jpeg   Team Durango Open Source Parts :D-v5.2.jpeg  
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Old 06-12-2014 | 06:09 PM
  #24  
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There we go!!! I keep reading people talking about bmans stuff but couldn't find any of them lol

Very nice bman! Yea, let me know if you want any parts printed and I'll see what I can do. I realized one of my comments could have come across as me using your design for profit...and I didn't mean it that way if it did.
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Old 06-13-2014 | 04:15 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by rc_dude
There we go!!! I keep reading people talking about bmans stuff but couldn't find any of them lol

Very nice bman! Yea, let me know if you want any parts printed and I'll see what I can do. I realized one of my comments could have come across as me using your design for profit...and I didn't mean it that way if it did.
No worries, I appreciate the offer. Nice to have a 3D contact..
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Old 06-13-2014 | 06:23 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
My 410........V5 and V5.2!
I think I've seen one of your chassis in the wild. It was one of the diff conversions for the 4wd buggy. Looked really nice, and from talking to the owner, he was very happy with it.
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Old 06-13-2014 | 06:39 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
I think I've seen one of your chassis in the wild. It was one of the diff conversions for the 4wd buggy. Looked really nice, and from talking to the owner, he was very happy with it.
That's good news! Thanks!
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Old 06-13-2014 | 08:25 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick
A lot can be done with just a dremel, drill, the right hardware, and a little bit of elbow grease.

Custom chassis for dex210 to optimize mid motor weight distribution (it's also lighter and stiffer, which is a bonus):


Center diff conversion for a dex410 utilizing the stock aluminum chassis:
Hideeho
What material did you use to make the 210 mm chassis?
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Old 06-13-2014 | 10:10 AM
  #29  
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I've used G10 but I buy it in black.
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Old 06-13-2014 | 12:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by fredswain
I've used G10 but I buy it in black.
Hideeho
A quick seach found me a custom knife company that sells g10 in every color under the rainbow in sizes for a 1/10 chassis for $40+/- a sheet.

How hard is the stuff to work with? Will a dremel w/ a router bit cut it

How does g10 compare to carbon fiber sheets as a chassis material?

How do you get the kick up on the front for a 2wd vehicle?

What thickness is a good starting point?
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