raving-monkey

thanks for the advice...but tbh i dont think a bit of binding will hurt it much..in the steering theres a servo with roughly 7kg+ of torque..i doubt it will have problems turning the joints with a bit of binding...and in the camber and stuff, the weight of the wheels etc should make them fall back down under their own weight..so i dont think there will be a problem there either.

although, ill get some and let you know how it goes...and will give feedback on them.

JWATT

The tightness with the RPM ballcups I found to be caused by "flash" when they drilled the hex hole in the ball studs. I filed off the top of the ball studs, and the stiffness was gone.

raving-monkey

thanks for the tip...but why would you want to drill the hex anyway?

what if you needed to take them out.

CRASH

iTrader: (26)

Thanks, I will give that a try and see what happens.

Later,

JWATT

Regular ball studs are smooth on the top. With the TC4's ball studs having the hole in the top for a hex driver, there was some flash where the hole was drilled for the hex. That is what I was talking about.

raving-monkey

ahh i get you now..i thought you meant you had drilled a bigger hole where the hex bit is..thanks for clearing it up.

when i get rpm cups ill get a file to the balls

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

you'd probably be better off drilling a hold in the top of the cup to allow acess to the hex on the ball so that you don't have to take the cups off to make adjustments....keeping them slop-free longer

JWATT

Removing/installing the ball stud each time I want to adjust will wear out the threads (I make a LOT of adjustments, Ha) of the part the stud screws into. I would rather replace a ball cup, instead of a chassis part. IMO

Greg Amendola

iTrader: (28)

I don't have any problem with steering in my TC4 at all. There are a number of changes you can make to get more steering:

Rear Block: Go to the 2.5 or 2.0 This change will loosen up the rear of the car on-power as you take away the toe-in.
Stiffer Rear Springs: Will transfer more weight off-power to the front, thus you get more front bite into a corner.
Rear Swaybar: In the rare instance you need more steering yet, you can use a rear swaybar to accomplish that. The rear swaybar willtake away traction from the rear of the car and make the car faster through high-speed transition areas of the track (same as front swaybar).
Shock Position: You can stand up the shock more to make the spring less progressive and thus stiffer. This too will transfer more weight to the front of the car.
Ackerman: A rare tuning option, but also very valid is ackerman. You can shim the steering so the car throughout the corner has more front bite.
Toe-Out: one degree of toe-out will add bite entering the corner.

You should make small changes an look at ease to drive and also lap-times to determine if you are taking steps in the right direction.

Other valids points:
-Tire care is supreme. I would start a foam at 2.28 and skim lightly every week.
-rotate tires every other round
-clean out the tire between rounds with motor spray, use full dope rear and 80% dope on the front.
-be sure to shape the outside of the tire a little flatter, or in other there should be less sidewall on the outside of the tire when you shape it.
-camber, watch your tire wear to determine the best camber. After adjusting mine, sometimes my tires need +/- a half degree to wear flat.
-tire dope. New tires=20min, re-runs 5min
-steering radius, make sure your car steer an equal size half circle each direction for best performance.

I've had great success with the new EPIC Stock with 4080 brushes and red/green springs. I'm running 31/100 with a 2.28 tire on a 75' track.

Hope this helps...
Greg

caleracer45

I just got my TC4 ut together and I noticed that the inside of my wheels rub my spindles. Is there anything you can do to fix this? I am running Jasons foam tires.

Greg Amendola

iTrader: (28)

Do you mean the camber link or the steering hub? If it's the hub, you can get some thin shims from Kyosho that will move the wheel out farther from the hub. Otherwise, dremel or use a hobby knife to provide clearance in the hub for the wheel to clear.

What width are the tires? 28mm Jaco and Parmas work fine without rubbing.

Another option is to put the tire on a truer and use a shaping stick to remove the first mm or two to make the rim thinner in width.

Hope this helps.
Greg

raving-monkey

hey, never thought of that..good idea

but....won't it make the cup a lot weaker? maybe letting it crack easier in a crash or what ever (sometimes its hard to keep off the boards )

might give it a go though, rebuilding my car after every meeting means taking all the links off..so it may be worth it.

so when i go to the lhs i need brokomo shock bladders and rpm ball cups.....do the rpm cups work well with the stock balls or is it wirth getting some after market ones? (im not bothered on the material so i don't need any Ti ones)

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

let me know how it works with your rpm's...

Matt Francis did this on his JRXS at the inddor champs this past November...

I had RPM's on my car when I gotit and it was bound up so heavily that I boke down and removed them and put the stock pieces back on

MartynD

A friend at the local track just went to the RPM ballcups, and they did cause some serious binding. When turning the wheels they would lift the rack.

We decided on either, putting the ball in a dremel and spinning it in the cup to loosen it up or even trying a bit of heat. The idea of drilling a hole through the cup the hex did not come up, but I will mention that next time I see him.

I don't know if any of our ideas worked as yet, I won't see him again until likely next week.

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

makes a big difference. You could experiment with different sizes, but I only made them as big as my hex driver end. I think RPM could have something here. Make them with a hole and put a plug in it for offroad. My 2-cents.

I was wondering if you could use X-ray ball cups. You would have to check/correct the shims for roll center, but I think they are tighter and freer. Just replacing one per tierod end would help a lot.

Getting rid of that plastic servo steering link helps a lot, but I went to a titaium rod and one 4-40 Durbro ball cup/swivel (the ones like the ex-ray ball cups) on one end. No slop now and more the car feels more consistant to me. Steering input feels more precise.