38LikesTekno ET48 Thread
05-13-2014 | 07:37 AM
#2761
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSZd_0c_it4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHGE5WXmgss
05-13-2014 | 07:47 AM
#2762
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 105
Got a new basher video if anyone wants to check it out. Some pretty sweet backflips.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fge4QXJv9DA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fge4QXJv9DA
05-13-2014 | 09:35 AM
#2764
Marc,
15* spindles will make it easier to drive but will not provide as much initial steering going into the corner. The 10* spindles will allow you to enter into the corner, will make the steering a little more sensitive and you will loose some mid-corner steering on power. You can play around with the kick-up in the front to find a happy middle depending on which way you go. I like the 10* spindle over the 15* for the track's I've been running on.
Hope this helps,
Mark
15* spindles will make it easier to drive but will not provide as much initial steering going into the corner. The 10* spindles will allow you to enter into the corner, will make the steering a little more sensitive and you will loose some mid-corner steering on power. You can play around with the kick-up in the front to find a happy middle depending on which way you go. I like the 10* spindle over the 15* for the track's I've been running on.
Hope this helps,
Mark
maybe not agressive enough in the 180's!?
my truck is built, ill drive it like that but noticed you use 10* spindles
was wanting to know how much difference there was and how it acts with each! I have your setup minus the 10*
ill go with that til I order parts later
thanks!
05-13-2014 | 12:06 PM
#2765
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,546
From: Northern VA
Marc,
It really comes down to personal preference. I always carry both 15 and 10. If it's a really rought track I may choose 15 over the 10 just to smooth it out. If the track has tight 180's then I'll go with the 10, if it's fast and flowing I may go to the 15's.
Hope that helps,
Mark
It really comes down to personal preference. I always carry both 15 and 10. If it's a really rought track I may choose 15 over the 10 just to smooth it out. If the track has tight 180's then I'll go with the 10, if it's fast and flowing I may go to the 15's.
Hope that helps,
Mark
05-15-2014 | 12:40 PM
#2767
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
i learned with 180's and tight turns in general is that you have to break at least a little bit before hand to get the weight back on the front wheels before turning in more so than on a buggy where you may instead just throw the rear into the turn to slow down.
05-16-2014 | 03:06 PM
#2769
Tech Adept
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 140
From: Colorado
Looking into picking one of these up as my first truggy... I am a complete noob and am reading up as much as I can...
I am wondering though if someone could explain to me the different motor/esc shenanigans... specifically the kV of a motor in conjunction with the battery being used.
If you could even just link me to somewhere where it is explained in greater detail I would really appreciate the help!
Thank you.
I am wondering though if someone could explain to me the different motor/esc shenanigans... specifically the kV of a motor in conjunction with the battery being used.
If you could even just link me to somewhere where it is explained in greater detail I would really appreciate the help!
Thank you.
05-16-2014 | 05:17 PM
#2771
Tech Initiate
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 43
thanks man...sorry for the delay...I gave a close up of the front wheel well so you can see the cut outs necessary to run LARGE wheels and the space needed for the front camber links - I probably will dremel out the entire wheel well flares for a cleaner look, but I'm trying to live with it for a bit. All of this would not have been needed if I figured out a way to mount the front end of the body higher. Important to note, I used the Proline mounting system by driving the threaded screws into the wing mount. This way, I can quickly swap out and replace with the wing should I want to run the original body. Diversity boys!
05-16-2014 | 06:29 PM
#2775
thanks man...sorry for the delay...I gave a close up of the front wheel well so you can see the cut outs necessary to run LARGE wheels and the space needed for the front camber links - I probably will dremel out the entire wheel well flares for a cleaner look, but I'm trying to live with it for a bit. All of this would not have been needed if I figured out a way to mount the front end of the body higher. Important to note, I used the Proline mounting system by driving the threaded screws into the wing mount. This way, I can quickly swap out and replace with the wing should I want to run the original body. Diversity boys!