i just flashed my GTX3 yesterday and it went fine.

i cut all the traces on the st explorer board on the little "bridges" going to the processor development side. its pretty much the same as breaking the board but its reversible with solder.

i use a straight pin header and bent it 90deg with vise grips and soldered it the radios board. there isnt the provision like the GT3B case to cut a slot and send it out the side cause a screw mount peg is there so to flash the case has to be apart and the board unscrewed from the top cover.

i also made a 4 pin cable out of part of an old cdrom audio cable and part of a DIP-8 chip socket that i cut up with a dremel. soldered and heat shrunk the connections and taped up some bits and it was ready.

so i installed the toolkit, and then the patch then restarted the computer (acer aspireone netbook) and then connected the radio to the st board. then i turned on the radio and then plugged in the USB. Then i started the programmer software and made the selections.

then i read the original software off and saved it.

then i copied the new code from the github display window that shows the code and pasted it into a txt document and renamed the suffix to .s19 to change the format. flashed the radio and it took the first time.

i had some goofy issues when setting endpoints and having ABS enabled (pulsed throttle constantly) but it was because i never calibrated the throttle and steering inputs.

now it works MINT. LOVE IT! thanks big thanks to PSX and QuangVuong and losikid67 for the code and all the tutorials on how to make this happen.

I bought this radio cause it was cheap and had good features. had no idea that there was custom software for it when i bought it. its right up my alley. nothing i own hasnt been modified or reflashed or whatnot in someway.

brian

Thanks Brian

I think I'll probably run a cable down to the battery bay on mine rather than having to open it again later to update

why does my board have something like resistors where I'm supposed to de solder at sb1 and sb2? should I de solder it?

They are zero ohm resisters. Typically speaking the standard machines that populate boards can't create solder bridges (in fact they are designed specifically not too in most cases). What they do in those cases is add in a componoent that does nothing and is effectively a wire, so yes, you can remove the components without issue

I was looking to pick up a GT3B or a GTX radio for my bashers but I would like to update the F/W. I have done this before with LosiKid's kit.
But Are the current radios that are shipping from HobbyPartz or Hobbyking still able to be flashed ?
or
is anyone selling
Thanks guys


Edit: Guess I didn't think about the GT3C, is the flashing pretty straight forward there also ? I will post on the GTB3C thread also.

I've order a GT3B from hobbypartz about a month ago and was able to flash it without any issue...don't know about HobbyKing though.

Thank you. I just ordered a GT3C, now I just have to wait for Overkill RC (aka LosiKid67) to restock on the programing kits !

I don't want to take business away from Overkill but if you really want to flash yours right now, you can get the programming board from digikey or other electronic website...

Hi I broke the trigger on my modded flysky can any of you give me some pointers on replacing the trigger ?? thanks Guys

Hey sorry to not read the whole thread. Just wondering if there is a fix or update for my Flysky-GT3B. My channel 2 (esc) trim will wander a bit. Maybe as many as a 10 point increase. I quit using it for racing because I was suspecting it was messing with my drag brakes. Really only would notice sometimes before the start of a race the car would ever so slightly creep forward. I would just hold the brakes when this happened. Not a huge deal and I have been using it in my bashing Slash ever since. My buddy's had the same problem with channel 1 so his steering went nuts. That really makes it hard to drive and I heard a few guys at the track had the same issue with channel 1 also so I guess I feel pretty lucky. I really do like the radio and if it wasn't for this issue I would say it would be the steal of the RC world. I have had mine for two years now. Picked up a KingMax 2200 3cell lipo for 11 bucks shipped and stole the foam steering wheel doughnut off my Traxxas TQ radio so the wheel is normal size. With that 3cell lipo I would race two classes so pretty close to 80 minutes of actual race and practice time and I would use maybe a half of a volt from the battery. Don't think it ever dropped under 11.9 volts.

Hey guys where do I find the firmware to update my hacked FLyskys

If you find the STM8S Discovery Kit a bit annoying, you can buy this ST-LINK V2 programmer for less then six bucks. Just tested it and it works great. The setting for this programmer in the ST Visual Programmer is the same as for the Discovery Kit one.

Where to buy >>> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40



How to connect:


"About" article on my web, original in czech lang, traslated >>> http://translate.google.cz/translate...030001&act=url

I did the same thing. You have to wire up the programmer differently, but it works amazingly well. Was able to read the FW from my radio, but I was using staples instead of a pin header, and wasn't trusting myself to be able to write properly, so I'm waiting till the local electronics store opens to get a pin header.

I love that the part is $6 instead of $30

Hello everyone,

I have bought a hacked FS GT3B radio, everything works fine except the third channel. I press the CH3 button, but nothing happens. I viewed the settings in my transmitter and it is set to 3 channels. With throttle and steering everything is OK. What should I do to make 3rd chanel working? Sorry for my bad English

fyi I hacked the turnigy gtx3 but I had to use an XP machine b/c win7 just wouldn't do it even w/ the patch.