2LikesTamiya TRF418
02-18-2014 | 04:44 AM
#616
Thanks alot. Makes alot more since now. Thst chart is exactly what I was looking for. So a C and C front is a middle track width with no arm sweep and XA & E rear is 3° toe in. Thinking maybe an XA & C or D would be better for stock. Thanks
02-19-2014 | 08:32 AM
#618
02-19-2014 | 10:47 AM
#619
So I've found the difference between the shims under the inner ball stud are very crucial on carpet. At 0-1mm on Sweeps I traction roll. 1.5-2.0 the car is very unstable if you hit a dot. At 3-4mm the car becomes very stable and very forgiving. When your in a great setup window a .5mm difference can be huge. So if Sean is running a 4mm shim he may be on high bite carpet.
I don't know Sean's grip level at his track but his setup for our track which is low/medium traction seems a little pushy but very stable. It's a fantastic base setup and highly recommend it as a starting point. As all tracks are different in grip no one setup is perfect but you can take that setup almost any where.
I will finalize my setup this week but it's not all that different. But it does use the stock springs as I didn't want to use anything else at first. I just have a few more things to try till my setup is final. This is a baseline for Sweep 32's for Nats if I can go.
I don't know Sean's grip level at his track but his setup for our track which is low/medium traction seems a little pushy but very stable. It's a fantastic base setup and highly recommend it as a starting point. As all tracks are different in grip no one setup is perfect but you can take that setup almost any where.
I will finalize my setup this week but it's not all that different. But it does use the stock springs as I didn't want to use anything else at first. I just have a few more things to try till my setup is final. This is a baseline for Sweep 32's for Nats if I can go.
02-20-2014 | 04:27 AM
#620
So I've found the difference between the shims under the inner ball stud are very crucial on carpet. At 0-1mm on Sweeps I traction roll. 1.5-2.0 the car is very unstable if you hit a dot. At 3-4mm the car becomes very stable and very forgiving. When your in a great setup window a .5mm difference can be huge. So if Sean is running a 4mm shim he may be on high bite carpet.
I don't know Sean's grip level at his track but his setup for our track which is low/medium traction seems a little pushy but very stable. It's a fantastic base setup and highly recommend it as a starting point. As all tracks are different in grip no one setup is perfect but you can take that setup almost any where.
I will finalize my setup this week but it's not all that different. But it does use the stock springs as I didn't want to use anything else at first. I just have a few more things to try till my setup is final. This is a baseline for Sweep 32's for Nats if I can go.
I don't know Sean's grip level at his track but his setup for our track which is low/medium traction seems a little pushy but very stable. It's a fantastic base setup and highly recommend it as a starting point. As all tracks are different in grip no one setup is perfect but you can take that setup almost any where.
I will finalize my setup this week but it's not all that different. But it does use the stock springs as I didn't want to use anything else at first. I just have a few more things to try till my setup is final. This is a baseline for Sweep 32's for Nats if I can go.
Reason i ask is, on the 417, 3mm-4mm worked best on the inner ballstud, but the 418 with no shims on the inner ballstud is at the same height as 3.5mm on the 417.
I've been running on medium/high grip asphalt and found that marc's BIRC setup works really well. Changed the car heaps but keep going back to BIRC setup. When the grip is lower, no shims under the blocks works really well, with no shims on the upper link. In higher grip conditions, 0.5 under the blocks and 0mm or 1mm under the upper link feels best.
02-22-2014 | 08:32 AM
#621
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
From: North Carolina
Have you guys tried taking out the 0.5 shims from under the blocks and running 0mm-1mm on the inner ball stud?
Reason i ask is, on the 417, 3mm-4mm worked best on the inner ballstud, but the 418 with no shims on the inner ballstud is at the same height as 3.5mm on the 417.
I've been running on medium/high grip asphalt and found that marc's BIRC setup works really well. Changed the car heaps but keep going back to BIRC setup. When the grip is lower, no shims under the blocks works really well, with no shims on the upper link. In higher grip conditions, 0.5 under the blocks and 0mm or 1mm under the upper link feels best.
Reason i ask is, on the 417, 3mm-4mm worked best on the inner ballstud, but the 418 with no shims on the inner ballstud is at the same height as 3.5mm on the 417.
I've been running on medium/high grip asphalt and found that marc's BIRC setup works really well. Changed the car heaps but keep going back to BIRC setup. When the grip is lower, no shims under the blocks works really well, with no shims on the upper link. In higher grip conditions, 0.5 under the blocks and 0mm or 1mm under the upper link feels best.
02-22-2014 | 03:21 PM
#622
Don't the new 418 ball studs have a 1mm shim build into them now? So when you say no shims under the 418 studs would you still record this as 1mm on a set up sheet? I only ask because I switched out the kit studs for the fluorine coated ball studs that do not have the 1mm shim built into them.
When I record no shims on setup sheet, this means no shim on 418 stud, which is 1mm shim the fluorine ballstud.
So 1mm on a 418 setup sheet would be with the 418 ball stud, which is 2mm on the older fluorine ball stud.
02-23-2014 | 11:37 PM
#624
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,650
From: Bristol, UK
So I've been struggling a bit with rear end grip on my 418, generally having to dial out steering to keep it under control, but I would like to have a bit more lock in the car for the very tight corners. Any suggestions for changes from kit settings that are working for you to get the rear end planted?
02-24-2014 | 02:01 AM
#626
Tech Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,458
From: santa monica / manchester
As above, taking the centre screw out gives you loads of rear end (Too much) although I actually like running the 6 degree hubs on mine, it seems to calm out the rear on the sweepers and on tighter corners past the apex.
02-24-2014 | 04:23 AM
#627
So I've been struggling a bit with rear end grip on my 418, generally having to dial out steering to keep it under control, but I would like to have a bit more lock in the car for the very tight corners. Any suggestions for changes from kit settings that are working for you to get the rear end planted?
As for the centre screw, I've had mixed results, it works well if you want the car to rotate more through the corner, but can also (depending on the rest of the setup) make the car over rotate on corner exit and make it "keep steering" around the corner. It feels like it gives the car more corner speed but I'm not sure if it actually does. I think on small twisty tracks it will work effectively because it allows a quicker direction change, but on larger tracks with sweeping corners it can have mixed results.
02-24-2014 | 11:50 AM
#629
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,650
From: Bristol, UK
I was holding off but I've gone out and ordered almost all of the tuning parts for a 418, so I'll be able to play with caster, track width, front drivetrain and roll centres to my hearts delight. If past experience is anything to go by I'll end up back on kit settings but at least I will have learnt a bit more in the process!
02-24-2014 | 06:59 PM
#630
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,741
anyone know when new stock is expected at most stores?
good pricing *was* between $475and $550, but those that seem to have stock are sitting around the $599-$699 price point.
trying to decide whether to just suck it up and go to speedtech at $599 or wait for somewhere like Banzai to get stock again - $100 buy quite a few spares and bits!
good pricing *was* between $475and $550, but those that seem to have stock are sitting around the $599-$699 price point.
trying to decide whether to just suck it up and go to speedtech at $599 or wait for somewhere like Banzai to get stock again - $100 buy quite a few spares and bits!